[hlyshft]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

I would definitely still use blue tape or put something more permanent on the 1/4 panels if you go on a track. I have the ZL1 Deluxe guards as well and here is a thread that shows what the tape looked like after a recent track day. They definitely help, but stuff is still hitting the 1/4 panels

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=492493

Yikes, and that's with the guards! I had the normal black rubber marks from the track event but was able to wipe them away with WD40. I didn't see any additional rock chips though. I had some extra film added above the factory film area, so it was probably that plus the guards that helped. I'll try the blue tape test next time just to see.

[RatedR]

Are any of you guys noticing dents on the tops of your rear fenders?

I have the ZL1 Add Ons deluxe front rock guards and clear bra on the rockers and a custom piece above the line between the plastic rocker material and the steel fender, but I have noticed one small dimple on top of each rear fender that was not there before. I believe that this is caused by rocks that are being thrown up into the air and then falling back down onto the rear fenders.

[Eric SS]

Originally Posted by RatedR

Are any of you guys noticing dents on the tops of your rear fenders?

I have the ZL1 Add Ons deluxe front rock guards and clear bra on the rockers and a custom piece above the line between the plastic rocker material and the steel fender, but I have noticed one small dimple on top of each rear fender that was not there before. I believe that this is caused by rocks that are being thrown up into the air and then falling back down onto the rear fenders.

Those have been documented and are from leaning over your 1/4 panels and putting weight on them. The metal is very thin. Some have happened while the tint guy was leaning over to cut the tint to the correct size. Others while people were leaning over to wash the rear windshield.

[pkincy]

Originally Posted by RatedR

Are any of you guys noticing dents on the tops of your rear fenders?

I have the ZL1 Add Ons deluxe front rock guards and clear bra on the rockers and a custom piece above the line between the plastic rocker material and the steel fender, but I have noticed one small dimple on top of each rear fender that was not there before. I believe that this is caused by rocks that are being thrown up into the air and then falling back down onto the rear fenders.

On the Fourth Gens these dimples were caused by stress from the top rear shock mounts. Don't have a clue on the Gen6, but it may be possible. I had 4-5 Fourth Gens and all got these dimples, more so on the cars that were tracked.

[AZ_1LE]

Originally Posted by SSTG

Could you let me know where you got these please?

They're factory GM parts, paint matched, ready to install yourself. Was very easy. I got them from here - http://www.shopchevyparts.com/camaro...3883_3896.html Just scroll through to find front and rear and the right color.

[kkriskal]

I had the same problem because of my trip as described in this thread

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showth...1#post10065395

I replaced all the damaged clear bra (my car is completed wrapped in clear bra) and now it looks like nothing happened.

[indyz]

Is Plasti dip a good option (applying 10++++ coats) for paint protection?

I couldn't care less about looks, I would value paint protection over all else (exterior-wise). The way I see it, I'm sitting inside the car, the performance and ergonomics (those suck and I guess I'm okay with that ) are what I would care about, apart from paint protection. Looks are a distant last IMHO.

[Glen e]

I have used clear plastidip and film, and film is easier and faster , with just as much protection. Buy some bulk XPEL off Amazon or some of their door sill pieces, cut, peel and stick.

[kkriskal]

@Indyz, I have Not used plastic dip. What I did was Clear Shield Pro Clear Bra at Drive In Auto Sound. Works like a charm. Once you have a lot of damage like I had, cut, peel and put a new patch, it works, does Not get through and protects the paint. My car looks brand new again. after my trip it looked like it was painted white in those portions and now it is like brand new as if nothing happened. It cost be 195 dollars to replace the damaged areas. It was quiet a bit of places since it was over 4000 miles of worst driving conditions (Salt, Snow, Sand, Stones, Rain every possible bad weather).

[pbsinternet1le]

We don't need no stinking rock gaurds!
No-one ever said....

[Kgoeb]

This is why mine will be completely wrapped in Xpel Ultimate film, and then ceramic coated with Opti-Coat. It'll be probably 2 days worth of work to put the film on, but it will be worth it. I said I'd never buy another black car again, but I did...so I'm gonna do everything possible to make it stupid easy to maintain haha.

[R.C. Collins]

I must be different. Two things i don't worry about re. the Camaro: Sales figures and rock chips. Where i live salt is not an issue but rock chips are, and in a few years when it does need touched up i'll have a good paint shop fix it. Besides, i can't see any chips from more than 5ft away.

[MJP]

GM was sleeping.
Dodge had the right idea and knew how to save the paint after going with wider tires on the Demon.
Toss on a $250.00 set of Bushwackers.
I had similiar on my 88 Ford Bronco.

[wjones14]

I installed the OEM splash guards this weekend. $200 for all 4 including shipping from Shopchevyparts.com. The install is fairly simple if you remove the wheels. The rear guards are attached by 3 screws that replace existing screws in the wheel well liner. The front guards use a bracket that you attach to the wheel well liner, and the guards attach to that bracket by supplied 3/32" rivets. (I didn't own a rivet tool and never even used one before, so I picked one up for $20 at Lowe's and it was very easy.) All the guards have double-sided tape that sticks to the fenders.

The trickiest part of the installation process is removing the liner from the tape without ripping it. They want you to attach the guards without tightening the screws or rivets, and then pull the tape liner from between the guard and the fender. The tape liners are extremely thin and flimsy. I ripped the first one almost immediately, so before I went any further I removed the guard from the fender, separated the liner from the tape, and then re-applied it to the tape very lightly so it would pull off easier. No problems after that.

I'm very pleased with them because they look like they were factory installed, even though they look somewhat "tacked on" at the same time. Not sure how much they will help but it's better than nothing.