Anyone Running Pac Audio Sub Interface?
 

I have a 2016 2SS Convertible with Bose. They have a pretty reasonable ($150ish) sub only setup compared to doing the whole system - APSUB-GM61 kit. I am dying for better sound but don't want to do the whole system. Just seeing if anyone has had any luck with it.

I can do this kit, a small sub, and a decent amp for just a little more than the interface would cost on the whole system.

Thank you.

-Geoff

Geoff,
Not sure exactly what you are looking to do - but I just completed a sub install in my 2020 2SS Convertible. I had to buy a few new parts and used some of my old parts in a new custom box.

Here is a link to that thread...let me know if it is something you are looking to do...

Your system looks great - wish I could find one local to listen to. I was just trying to get the sub signal before it went into the amp. I like the thought of that better, although I would agree that you could probably get the end result either way.

-Geoff

From reading on threads here - the signal is now digital. In my 2010 & 2014 with the Boston Acoustics System, I was able to tap into the audio signal prior to it getting to the B/A amp. There was no leed for the Line Out Controller (LOC) that I needed to add. I went straight from the T-Spice going into the B/A amp to my Rockford Fosgate amp w/ a Remote Power On for the R/F amp.

From 2016+, the audio signal is digital and you now need to tap into the signal for the audio out to then go to the LOC - and then to my R/F amp.

There were some good threads on this forum and based on those - thats how I approached this project. While not an audio expert, I did pretty good with this setup - I did have the R/F amp and the Pyle Dxi subs in a custom box in the 2010 & 2014 cars - I just needed to create a new box that fit in the trunk.

Hit me up if you have any other questions. Too bad you weren't closer - I would be happy to show you...I am still trying to fine tune/balance the sub tone to get where I want to be. I had it set up good in my other Camaro's - I am now trying to set it up between the R/F amp and the LOC (adjustments on both) to get it where I want to listen at a volume I am happy with that is moderate and still gives me the thump I want without being excessive...

@mrgoodwrench I was going to PM you a question but I thought I would just post it up in case anyone else was interested.

I am giving up on getting the signal ahead of the Bose amp. From a price standpoint too, it seems like grabbing speaker level is the way to go for downright easiness if nothing else. I looked at the info for the LC2i, and it looks like it takes in two channels, and splits it into high level and bass. I assume you are grabbing the door speakers here. Do you need an amp that will power the door speakers now, or does the LLJ T-Harness run in parallel keeping the Bose amp to the door speakers.

Thank you!

-Geoff

SomeGeoffGuy:

• I'm glad you asked your question - it prompted me to look up what a PAC Audio interface was.
• I went to Crutchfield as a first step - Crutchfield is really a great resource for car stereo upgrades.
• I would be tempted to give Crutchfield a call and get their advice.
• If you were going to buy your equipment from them, they will also send you their installer instructions for the Camaro - seems very helpful for DYI.
• Take this feedback with a huge grain of salt, but... I would be hesitant to take a subwoofer signal off of ANY of the standard Camaro speakers. Who knows what equalization curve they send to each speaker. Who knows how they roll off the bass to the stock speakers - which are lame.
• I think I learned there are 2 types of DSP interfaces: 1) interfaces with the factory stereo on the digital bus to get audio signal as a flat signal pre-equalization/processing (ex. Helix DSP.3); 2) interfaces with the factory stereo off of a speaker signal and then recreates a flat signal by sending a test audio signal sweep thru the factory stereo and then applying a post-equalization/processing adjustment to recreate the flat signal (ex. JL Audio Fix 86). I believe the PAC interface is like the FiX 86. Option 2 devices seem to be a lot less expensive than Option 1 devices. To add just a sub, Option 1 seems like it would work fine. If you wanted a significant improvement of sound, and were going to replace other speakers, Option 1 sounds like the way to go, as the Bose equalizations would not apply well to any new speakers, and rather than "undoing" whatever the Bose has baked in, Option 2 gives you a nice, flat, pure audio signal with all of the car tones and phone features integrated.

Powered subs
 

• And you might consider a powered sub box.
• I have a JL Audio unpowered 10" sealed sub box for my ZL1 Vert - I love it.
• I have Rockford-Fosgate amps and my installer recommended them - I really like them too.
• Note to self: damn, those JL Audio subs seem EXPENSIVE - my unpowered 10" sealed was only $419 - maybe because of their powerful and high quality amps?

Crutchfield - Rockford Fosgate and JL Audio powered subs

Plasar, thank you for the reply. Truth is I have been hesitant to get the signal from a speaker out, but there are some good reviews on here from people who have used them. The PAC sub out connector I was looking at is still my first choice but it will probably be out of stock for a decade with the all the chip shortages going on right now. Crutchfield doesn't even have an availability date for it so it is probably out long term. (I am all about getting this stuff from Crutchfield though).

I want to put a box in the corner opposite the battery. I am going to get the highest power small footprint sub I can find. It is a tight fit, and I am pretty sure I can put a 6.5" sub there, but I am trying to squeeze in an 8" (that 8" JL 8W7AE would be ideal). JL and Memphis both make subs in both sizes. There is like 10" x 10" x 14" of space there, and by the time you add thickness of the box, your 8" sub is scraping both sides of the wood. Looking at doing a hybrid MDF/aluminum box and other crazy stuff like that. Mostly doing it just to have some fun and make something unique. Hopefully it sounds good!

99% likely I will get a Rockford Fosgate amp of some sorts too. I have an old school "Power 300" and that is still the benchmark I use for all amps (it is a little too old go back into regular use without a full rebuild though). The 150 watts RMS from half of that amp blew the doors off a 400 W RMS rated JL amp I had a few years ago. It is truly amazing what those guys did back in the 80's on that line of amps. They earned my repeat business, that is for sure!

-Geoff

Geoff:

• Sounds great, glad you are using Crutchfield, and the plan sounds good.
• If you roll your own cabinet fabrication, I recommend this channel on YouTube - Car Audio Fabrication, and it's owner Mark.
• He gives some great advice on subs and talks about sizing cabinets correctly and avoiding mistakes.
• Oh, and if you are lazy and have a lot of money ($1,130), JL Audio makes a plug-and-play (no amp though) Stealth Box for Camaro 6.
• Good luck amigo!

5 Subwoofer Myths to AVOID!
4 Mistakes that Kill Bass - Car Audio Subwoofer Improvements!
Subwoofer Box Volume - Car Audio Basics - CarAudioFabrication
Stealthbox® for 2016-Up Chevrolet Camaro

They made a stealth box for the convertible on the 5th gen but they must not have sold enough of them to do one for the 6th. Waa waaaaa. Thank you for the links, i will check them out.

-Geoff

Oh, sorry Geoff, I notice now you are a vert owner too! FYI, the box I bought fits underneath where the top goes, so I can leave it in top up or top down.

I use my trunk too much to have a box that I had to constantly take in and out. I need a permanent solution. I'll give up a few inches in the corner in order to fit something, even if the sound is not as good as what I could get with a removable bigger box and sub. I think if I buy a high end subwoofer and a good amp it will still sound good.

The trick over there isn't the box - it is the mounting. With the harnesses along the rail and that pinch weld flange, the box is going to end up nearly suspended. That is the tricky part of the design. The box either ends up overly complicated, or you have to have boat anchor brackets. Trying to find the medium.

-Geoff

Have you seen the speaker boxes on these two installations?
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=499580
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513195

Yea, thank you, those are both pretty awesome. That first one looks like you need a masters in carpentry. The second one is a custom for sure too. I am looking for something a little more square that I can do myself. I still want to keep it simple though. If someone had something on the shelf I would consider it, but I am getting tired of waiting for it (been six years since the 6th gen came out and nothing yet!)

It would be easy to spend $5k and get the stereo done by a pro, but I like doing it myself. Researching it and figuring is half the fun. I am thinking about getting a new car next year too (same car just six years younger), and I don't want to tear mine up too bad.

-Geoff