[NY Andrew]

This video will show you how to install a subwoofer in your 2016 Camaro with Bose (mainly how to run wiring and connect everything up). Took two entire evenings with some side tweaking to complete this all on my own.

I had enough confidence to finally complete this on my own, instead of wait for a wire harness that was never coming out or pay $200-$500 for an installer to do it, once I saw American Muscle’s video for the non-Bose 2016 Camaro: https://youtu.be/jBnOM9SrBZg

Only two issues are the subwoofer starts delayed by a couple seconds when songs initially start some time and the power seems to stay on to my amp (LOC turns off when no current is present from speaker wires, but amp which is wired essentially the same doesn't).

The speaker wire diagrams are in the video (thanks to everyone in the Camaro forums, would’ve been clueless without you!), and at the end you’ll hear an example of the audio (iPhone’s don’t capture the best sub audio), as well as see how much trunk vibration I’m getting.

Some terminology is off (was trying to finally get this video out on a lunch break hah) along with a couple other things I pointed out, but the fact that there’s no video like this out for 2016+ Camaro’s, how can you hate? I personally wish I had a video like this a year ago; wouldn’t have been sub-less for so long!

I’ll answer any questions or comments I can. Thanks for watching!




UPDATE 11/22/16:

*ISSUE: amp always on*
Had three wires together (LOC 12v, stock Bose amp 12v, amp remote in). The amp was always on but the LOC was turning off. To fix this I took the wire out of the bundle where the other end was attached to the amp remote in and put that to the LOC remote out. That simple fix solved my issue with the amp staying on even after the car is off and the LOC is off. Now when car is off and locked the two will remain on for little over a minute, flash a couple times red, remain on for a minute, and then finally both turn off!

*ISSUE: subs hit delayed for the initial kick on each song start*
I originally had the LOC AccuBass all the way up and bass pretty low. To fix the issue I turned AccuBass all the way down (off), main still a little under halfway, and bass now all the way up which can be controlled with my amp bass knob.

Everything has been perfected! I have no issues at all anymore! No plans to do anything else; if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

UPDATE 01/10/17:

Well, MTX Audio Terminator box is trash. Knew the deal was too good to be true and didn't last. Wasn't even two months in. One woofer works, but the other froze. When pushed it scratches and is hard to press, yet the other is smooth. While playing it rattles horribly. Didn't like their customer service either, I'd stay far away from their products. Bought a front-facing box now from thump of sub (because since my subs no longer good decided to try front-facing and the bass is so much cleaner with so much less trunk rattle!!), and now just trying to figure out which two 12's to put in the box (also unsure if it comes with the inside wires to hook up to the woofers).

UPDATE 01/27/17:

Purchased a custom Camaro front facing subwoofer enclosure box from thump of sub and two 12" Rockford woofers to match the amp. Wiring was the most important part to do that right. Only issue was unlike how the MTX box had only 1 positive and 1 negative terminal, this box and speakers had 1 positive and 1 negative on each side with only 1 positive and 1 negative speaker wire coming from the amp. So I had the speaker wire coming from the amp go in to the nearest terminal cup and then added speaker wire to connect in to that terminal and go to the terminal cup on the other side of the box. The problem I encountered was while playing apparently the wire popped out because it was so thick together and not properly fitting inside the terminal cup that only one woofer worked and the other wasn't. Once I pushed it in harder it worked fine, but that's obviously a reason of concern because while playing on a long car ride that may pop out and blow the subwoofer... I first thought it was because the wire wasn't even going from the amp to each terminal cup, but it was due to the fact it popped out. I'll keep an eye on it for now. Really right and hard to work the way the box and terminal cups are on it. But happy to have it working real good so far, so much better!

[lDejavul]

Few notes. The far right on the x1 are power and ground. So lets assume those are what you are using for power and ground for the lc2. If not you need to correct that asap. Also You should be running the lc2 with a new ground not tapping another device. You should also try just tapping into a body screw and not the battery terminal for ground for your amp. You want a very short ground cable. You can tap a whole bunch of those body screws back there for a good ground.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-OUAAYrB...rs_faq.html#11

4-8 x1 is power and ground. (far right)
8/16 x2 is right rear subwoofer. (far right)
1/5-x1 far left left rear subwoofer ( far left)

With that said. I recommend if you are hooked up both to the rear deck subs then move them to the front door speakers.

2/6 x1 Right front
3/7 x1 Left front

The front speakers contain the full bass frequency or at least way more than the rear deck does. I had the rear deck hooked up at first and moved to the door speakers and found that the rear deck is only for filler bass. Some of my songs would hit really hard and some would flounder where I thought they should hit. That was why. Bose soundstage.

As for accubass once you get it setup right I havent found the need to have it on at all. It doesnt seem to me that the bose cuts the bass at higher volumes at all. Just turn it all the way down and adjust the gain properly.

Also your 12v to your amps remote wire is why your amp is staying on. The nice thing about the lc2 is it has a remote out. Hook it up to that and it will tell your amp when to turn on and off. If you didn't tap a good remote wire there is a great one right next to your amp on that fuse box. A remote 12v turn can be found in the rear fuse box in the trunk just to the left of the battery. That is fuse #33 (labeled Wless Chrgr). Its a switched fuse that is controlled by the ignition. That would eliminate the time it takes for the lc2 to turn on detecting signal.
http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=16

Another point you make in the video is unplugging the x3 connector. It does not appear that the 2lt with the bose package gets the ANC (active noise canceling) like the 2SS so thats what you only have one wire and not the ANC mics. If you had ANC believe me you would hear it in your sub and would either need to cut the mics or remove the plug.

If you have anymore questions hit me up. You're on the right path just a couple of crossed wires.

[NY Andrew]

Wow I really appreciate the detailed response man!

Didn't know that about ANC that's interesting. I've also heard that the exhaust note comes out of the speakers or is that not the case on the 2LT either?

As for the 12v, I don't EVER recommend anyone to do it that way pictured. Buy a fuse tap don't wrap the wire around the fuse leg. But that is a great one to tap into I have one device tapped into it already. But see that was one issue I originally had when everything was all hooked up. The amp wasn't turning on.. I had and still do have the 12v going in to the LOC where it works correctly, but until I added the 12v to the amp as well, couldn't get the amp itself to turn on. Took a while to troubleshoot that, but that's the only way I could get the amp to come on. But the LOC doesn't take long to turn on and once it is on it stays on so not sure that'd be the reason for the initial delayed bass.

And that's interesting about the accubass. Guess it wouldn't hurt to try your way out.

You're right about the orientation I realized I messed that up after I watched the video. The orientation took a while to get right but the color scheme really helped to assure complete accuracy. Thts why I shared the diagrams so I'm not telling people the wrong thing they can double check and go by the pictures.

I agree with you about the bass. I actually was confused when I played a song for the first time I initially thought it was going to be cut off from the front speakers because like you said that's where the full bass seems to come from. I actually like the side bass as well though. Guess it will come down to personal preference. I'd probably feel empty almost like something's missing if I took the bass away from the sides. Happy you shared that though because I'll keep that in mind. Maybe that's why my bass is initially delayed? Because it's "filler bass" I'm tapped in to? Did you ever have my issue either way?

I do have a short ground (well shorter than power) for the amp ground. I read it shouldn't be too short but it's supposed to be a certain length I don't remember off the top of my head and shorter than the power and you're good. Think you're probably right about the LOC should be having its own power and ground wires, why take away from the Bose amp which could possibly cause issues. It seems to be good so far; I think I have the ground and 12v spliced and that's where I added the LOC wires too, so got three wires essentially together. Woulda been an issue if I just straight took them away from the wires they were feeding, but they're still together so I think that's good. Still your way would definitely be best and optimally recommended.

Thanks again, very solid recommendations and corrections. Been years since I've done a sub install so a bit rusty hah and cars have changed.

[lDejavul]

Not sure about the exhaust being piped in from speakers. Haven't heard that one. Just the engine noise but that uses the sound tube on the intake.

You had the wire running from the remote out on the lc2 to the remote on the sub amp? Not 100% sure it will send a signal if you dont have a remote wire running to the lc2 so what you are doing might be the only way if you dont use a remote wire to the lc2. I would just be afraid of coming back to my car with a dead battery.

As for the front speakers. I definitely would not recommend cutting them as the bass up front is really nice feature and it really adds to the sound. I would just splice into the line to get the signal. https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Produc...s=quick+splice Those should do.

Once you do this your subs will wake up and sound 10x better. I was about to return my JLW6 until I moved it from the rear deck to the front speakers. I just unplugged the deck speakers at this point. They weren't really adding anything.

[NY Andrew]

Actually I don't even have a remote wire in OR out of the LOC. Wasn't sure where to get the remote in from. I do have that 12v going in to both the LOC and amp. So you're saying I need something going in to the remote in and then that remote out will go in to where I have the 12v going in to the amp at? Like I said just not sure where to get remote in wire from. Also, would that then make the amp actually turn off and not stay on all the time?

See that's interesting you mentioned that product. I have those and was going to use those, but then read how they're a bad idea because of corrosion etc., so instead I just spliced the wires themself. So you're saying use that for the front speakers if I decide to do that and then just splice the ones I cut back together, I'll keep that in mind. And when you say unplugged the deck speakers, I guess you mean you just didn't put the two wires back together? I'd be curious to hear the difference because think I'm satisfied with the rear decks so far. And sorta got that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" screaming at me hah.

Again, did you ever have delayed sub start from start to finish of your installation? Maybe the accubass adjustment and correct remote in and out will solve the issue? If not I guess it's because I'm using the rear deck "filler" bass?

Really appreciate your feedback and help!!

[lDejavul]

Originally Posted by lDejavul;9416208
Also your 12v to your amps remote wire is why your amp is staying on. The nice thing about the lc2 is it has a remote out. Hook it up to that and it will tell your amp when to turn on and off. If you didn't tap a good remote wire there is a great one right next to your amp on that fuse box. A remote 12v turn can be found in the rear fuse box in the trunk just to the left of the battery. That is fuse #33 (labeled Wless Chrgr). Its a switched fuse that is controlled by the ignition. That would eliminate the time it takes for the lc2 to turn on detecting signal.
[url

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9274926&postcount=16[/url]

Thats the best place I have found to run the remote wire. But if you dont want to run a remote wire you can continue letting the lc2 use gto sound sensing to turn on. The only change would be move the wire going to your amp from the 12v to the remote out on the lc2i. That will tell the amp to turn on when it does.

To get rid of the turn on delay you would have to run the remote wire mentioned in the quote above. that would go to the remote in on the lc2 and still the remote out would run to your amp.

[NY Andrew]

Oops sorry about that. Okay, wasn't sure if there was a specific remote in coming from the Bose amp I would need. Wow I really appreciate all your help. Considering I have the 12v coming from the Bose amp to the LOC and then another wire tapped in to both of those going to my amp, I'll just redirect the end tapped in to LOC and add it to the fuse you mentioned. I'll post back when I get around to that. Actually going to try putting that end tapped in to my LOC in to the remote out first. Going to see how that works because only delay if any would be so slight at initial vehicle start up. Once the cars on and music is playing I imagine there will be no issues.

And I also meant audio sub delay. But I guess you aren't or haven't had that issue to respond to it. Must be because I'm in the rear deck speakers then.

Thanks!

[lDejavul]

Yea the rear deck has a slight lag to the audio. I know what your talking about. Its definitely the rear deck.

[NY Andrew]

Just did what you suggested and I said I'd do and they both turned off successfully! Amp is now finally off! The first time they both turned off they each then came back on flashing twice I believe, but then they cut right off!! Thanks so much!!!!

I adjusted the accubass all the way down and honestly the bass seemed to be on point, but I'll double check tomorrow when I can fully tell from a commute. Depending on how this goes I will plan to eventually do the whole rewire of the fronts instead of rears.

Seriously though I appreciate your help! I'll post back about that accubass or whatever else comes up, etc.

[lDejavul]

Glad to hear its coming together. I know how frustrating it can be to work on car stereo stuff with so little info out there for these cars.

[chris227]

The front door speakers are not the best connection to get your bass signal. But I guess if it sounds good to you, that's all that matters.

[AndyUK]

Originally Posted by chris227

The front door speakers are not the best connection to get your bass signal. But I guess if it sounds good to you, that's all that matters.

What is then?
The rear deck speakers are not full range.

The connector for all of the speakers is in the trunk so you can tap it right at the output from the stock amp. There is no line out from either the amp or th headunit, so how else are you going to do it?

[chris227]

I personally went with the right sub output from the amp and avoided a lc2. The sound was worse with it. I just used some good quality RCAs and tied to the right sub output. I did both left and right to only the right sub. That got me the loudest output and cleaner sound. Took me over a few weeks driving the car wired every different way to get the best possible way. The front door connection didn't hit nearly as hard as the sub connection. I have a 2lt and i know everyone is different. just what me and a few friend ended up going with in our cars. Have been running this config for over 8 months and is by far the best the car has sounded.

[lDejavul]

If you went straight from the bose amp to your amp then your amp must accept that speaker level outputs. Not all amps can accept that. If your lc2i didn't sound very good it was most likely configuration somewhere either on your amp or the lc2i itself.

If you like the sound of your sub keep it. But 100% you are not getting as much of the bass frequency as the front door subs get. I wish I would have recorded a bass frequency test but I am positive the rear deck is for filler bass and not the whole range. I unplugged my rear deck speakers since they are no use now that I have my JL sub in.