[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by s346k

pulling the intake manifold requires an honest 15 minutes of work.

Yep a far cry from "tearing down an engine"

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

I have not, I have 3 Hyundai's with GDI engines... My 2012 with 80k miles just got the CRC treatment, seems to run/idle smoother... My 2016 with 25k just got the CRC treatment, wife says it seems "more peppy and makes it up the hill easier"... The most recent is my daughters 2019 with 8k miles... Cleaning went well, after the hour heat soak it started smoking like a bad diesel, after a while the CRC stuff burned out (I'm guessing it dissolved a lot of carbon and was smoking due to the "dirty" CRC stuff burning up... Honestly, it scared the hell out of me because this was my daughters brand new (9 month old) car... It didn't throw a code and after a while no more smoke...) I plan to do all 3 at their next oil changes as well... Overall, for the $12 a can, the stuff gets good reviews and seems safe for the engines and the cats, so I'll keep using it...

That is GREAT to see actual pictures... I have a Mishimoto on my 2SS, but it only has 240 miles on it (can went on at about 60 miles). I'll probably do some CRC every other oil change down the road as a precaution...

I change my oil VERY often (never more than 3k miles and I use full synthetic in all my cars (going to use M1 0W-40 ESP Formula in my 2SS only)... I think oil change frequency is very important to keeping carbon buildup to a minimum... On my 2SS I'm going to do a 500, 1,500 and 5,000 mile oil change (maybe 4,000 just because 4,500 is a weird number and 5,000 is too long in my mind...) I do all my maintenance myself so it is just the cost of the materials... I have about $55k into my 2SS, I"m not going to skimp on an $80 oil change...

Once again, my motto has ALWAYS been "Fluids are cheap, major components are NOT!"...

Obviously agree fully with your motto

But i will also swear that my car goes faster after i wash it! Seriously
Indeed beware placibo effect, as it has been clinically proven to work miracles. And not only in medical field...
That's a fact.

On a serious note, you dont really know why your daughter's car was smoking like a diesel. You can speculate, but a brand new car with 8k...hmmm...

Also, i suspect you are well aware of issues with that manufacturer not standing behind warranty due to lack of, or improper maintenance practices when engines expire. As a matter of fact, our manuals warn against using *any* oil, or gasoline additive. Now this process does exactly that, not only introducing this stuff to the combustion chamber, but also using air intake to accomplish it. And air it aint.

Maybe visit your dealer and ask them what their process entails and what they use? Just to be on a safe side. And just a suggestion, that's all. Cheers!

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by s346k

pulling the intake manifold requires an honest 15 minutes of work.

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Obviously agree fully with your motto

But i will also swear that my car goes faster after i wash it! Seriously
Indeed beware placibo effect, as it has been clinically proven to work miracles. And not only in medical field...
That's a fact.

On a serious note, you dont really know why your daughter's car was smoking like a diesel. You can speculate, but a brand new car with 8k...hmmm...

Also, i suspect you are well aware of issues with that manufacturer not standing behind warranty due to lack of, or improper maintenance practices when engines expire. As a matter of fact, our manuals warn against using *any* oil, or gasoline additive. Now this process does exactly that, not only introducing this stuff to the combustion chamber, but also using air intake to accomplish it. And air it aint.

Maybe visit your dealer and ask them what their process entails and what they use? Just to be on a safe side. And just a suggestion, that's all. Cheers!

The Hyundai "Induction Service" is very similar to the CRC product (put into the intake)...

The smoke on the 2019 was white, wasn't black and certainly not blue... And it pinged under load, but that is expected as the CRC reduces the octane of the ignition charge (until it is depleted, all my other cars pinged until it burned out), so I drove it VERY easy (i.e. no pinging) until it burned out... About 15 minutes later, no smoke, no ping even under full load...

Drove about 75 miles or so then changed the oil (was due plus did the service before oil change in case of any oil contamination from the CRC product). The oil looked and smelled "normal", nothing unusual...

Is it perfect??? Who knows, it gets good reviews and appears to be safe... I'll do it earlier than later, plus having a catch can, should reduce buildup dramatically from doing nothing... I hope the LT1 doesn't have significant issues with buildup as I intend to keep this car a very long time... (I tend to keep cars 10+ years)... I'm all about preventative versus reactive maintenance... I try to learn what I can and do what I feel is best, I'd rather spend a little more now than a whole lot more later...

[Boosted_ST]

Originally Posted by TrackClub

Nice to see a RL pic of an SS valve vs some goodness where sourced pix scaring the crap outta ppl.

Good video by that cleaning product manufacturer though. And honest! The guy is up front that quality of oil (and zero doubt change frequencies of same), quality of gasoline and driving habits have a lot to do with gunk. And not only on the valves btw. Use recommended oil and change it frequently, use only top tier gasoline, never shut the engine before it reaches full op temps, etc and everything will be just fine. PS i know, i am repeating myself like a broken record. By cant stand when folks make mountains out of molehills

I drive around 3K miles (5K kms) per year. Looking at the manual, it says to change it once per year if you're driving low kms. Should I do once per year or do it more frequently (twice per year)?

This is my 3rd car... so it only gets driven when it's nice outside.

[2SS Capt]

Originally Posted by Boosted_ST

I drive around 3K miles (5K kms) per year. Looking at the manual, it says to change it once per year if you're driving low kms. Should I do once per year or do it more frequently (twice per year)?

This is my 3rd car... so it only gets driven when it's nice outside.

Fluids are cheap, components are not... Is it worth saving $80 or so on an oil change??? Why not change it...

[SSDan]

Originally Posted by 2SS Capt

Fluids are cheap, components are not...

I could swear I just read that someplace else!


I'm just going with preventative maintenance and not worrying about carbon build up with GDI. I have a combined 260K miles driven (26 K on the Camaro) across 4 GDI vehicles and none of them ever suffered with degraded performance that I can notice. The gas mileage hasn't slipped and the performance never dropped.

[Jonnydz]

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527593

[Blue_6.2]

Originally Posted by Provoste

Spend $ on tires and brake pads, catch cans aren’t needed in our cars.

Here is truth.

[TJay74]

I would run a CC for insurance and peace of mind, track use or not the oil from the PCV system will eventually coke the valves. I pulled the supercharger off of my wifes 16 Audi SQ5 that is DI and has a very complex PCV system that had 62k miles on it. The coking was pretty bad at that mileage and it ran Castrol German spec oil and filters.

For as easy as the LT1 is to remove the intake manifold and you can get a harbor freight walnut blasting kit for $200, I would go that route if the CRC GDI cleaner doesnt work when used every 6 months.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Jonnydz

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=527593

Looks damn clean to me Thanks for posting this.

[TrackClub]

Originally Posted by Boosted_ST

I drive around 3K miles (5K kms) per year. Looking at the manual, it says to change it once per year if you're driving low kms. Should I do once per year or do it more frequently (twice per year)?

This is my 3rd car... so it only gets driven when it's nice outside.

Id never go a full year on the same oil regardless of miles. 6 months max assuming DD duty. Some low mile cars may actually have bigger issues because they sit idle for long periods. Expecially in humid climates. Doing an extra change would be a small price to pay for extra insurance. Imo. Cheers!

[csolas]

Thank you all for your feedback and great information. I feel much better now and I am loving this beast. Thanks guys!!

[KPzypher]

Just install a meth kit. Problem solved.

[Aragorn]

Anyone know at what point the oil change reminder light comes on on these cars? Thank you