[MT-SS1LE]

I don't track my car, but I do enjoy spirited driving in the mountains. So are the BMR trailing and control arms worth the cost and time to install them over stock? I like a firmer, more planted feel. It's not my DD, so I don't care about comfort. I'm looking at the non-adjustable versions, btw.

I searched and read previous posts. Most say they make a noticeable difference and are worth it. But a few people mentioned that GM engineered the components to have some flex and be able to move in all planes. And by replacing them with more rigid components that don't articulate as much you are actually hampering the suspension's capabilities, not improving it. So, what do you guys say?

[piening2150]

Interested in this as well. I've heard the toe links are pretty weak and slip, so I think I'll do the adjustable BMR versions regardless.

But for the rear control arms and trailing links are the adjustable versions worth the extra $ over the solid versions if I'm not a dedicated track rat looking to eek out every last millisecond? Mine is a DD, but I autox and hope to do some track days eventually. Previous owner did a track alignment on it already. So if he was able to get camber/toe set properly with the OEM stuff, why the adjustability in the control arms/trailing links? There are adjustable (new) and solid (used) BMR links local to me on FB Marketplace that I'm considering.

With my BRZ there was zero factory adjustment for camber so camber bolts or adjustable arms were required to dial everything in.

[2023-SS]

FWIW, if you live up north & have drove the camaro in the salt/winter, the OEM sheet metal parts have MANY bare metal edges.

mine was nasty and rusty from just 1700 miles in Ohio

hit the OEM parts with a wire wheel on a drill & then sprayed this on them:

Rust-Oleum 248658 Stops Rust Reformer Spray Paint, 10.25 oz, Matte Black
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HG48AC?th=1

in for opinions. I like BMR stuff, but IDK if it helps a DD. the SC roads are BAD.

[GreenZLE]

My ZLE got squirrely whenever I got on it at highway speeds like it was steering from the rear. Took it to a local shop known for doing good work on alignments and they couldnt get it all the way in spec with the factory components.


Bought the on car adjustable BMR components and it made the car night and day better. The on car adjustables make alignments more precise IMO. One thing though, the adjustables have heim joint ends so you need to buy dust boots for them or they have a high likelihood of creaking after several thousand miles. Do NOT use petroleum based lubricants on them as they can cause the teflon lining in the joints to swell and make the creaking noise worse.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

I searched and read previous posts. Most say they make a noticeable difference and are worth it. But a few people mentioned that GM engineered the components to have some flex and be able to move in all planes. And by replacing them with more rigid components that don't articulate as much you are actually hampering the suspension's capabilities, not improving it. So, what do you guys say?

This^^^. Those arms need to be able to swivel in more than one arc, which the poly bushings resist, and they also need to be able to twist, which the bushings and box-section prevent. What people are feeling is rear bind, which makes the car feel "pointier" (less understeer). But in reality, they have just lost rear grip. The only way in which these links really need to be rigid is in tension/compression, and the stock arms are fine for that. Tons of us autocross and track our cars with stock links.

If you simply have to spend money, then get the toe links. At least those get rid of the sucky stock toe eccentric adjuster and give you wider range of rear toe adjustment.

[MT-SS1LE]

Originally Posted by Msquared

This^^^. Those arms need to be able to swivel in more than one arc, which the poly bushings resist, and they also need to be able to twist, which the bushings and box-section prevent. What people are feeling is rear bind, which makes the car feel "pointier" (less understeer). But in reality, they have just lost rear grip. The only way in which these links really need to be rigid is in tension/compression, and the stock arms are fine for that. Tons of us autocross and track our cars with stock links.

If you simply have to spend money, then get the toe links. At least those get rid of the sucky stock toe eccentric adjuster and give you wider range of rear toe adjustment.

Yeah, your previous posts on this topic are exactly what I was referring to. I may just leave well enough alone and look elsewhere to spend money.

[cdb95z28]

Poly bushings have no business being on these cars except for ARB mounting, and even there they are not maintenance free.

[DeuceCam]

Some mfg's (e.g. some newer whiteline products) engineer replacement poly bushings to articulate similar to the OEM bushings, but it's rare.

I had a previous car with a full suspension poly bushing kit and wouldn't do it again. Very harsh ride and the suspension would bind up under cornering load. IMO poly bushings are best suited for fixed mounting locations, if desired, i.e., engine, trans diff, rear subframe, arb's, steering rack, etc.

[kropscamaro16]

spl parts > bmr for road racing

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by kropscamaro16

spl parts > bmr for road racing

Absolutely. The quality is far superior.

[Olemiss540]

Heim joints are suckie for anything besides full racecars that will see preventative replacement schedules. I dont care what fancy boots or sales pitch you get.

[MT-SS1LE]

I'm gonna save my money and put it towards something else. But, all these older posts saying these made a huge, noticeable difference in handling must be a placebo effect. Kind of like an aftermarket exhaust makes the car "feel faster" type thing.

[GreenZLE]

Originally Posted by MT-SS1LE

I'm gonna save my money and put it towards something else. But, all these older posts saying these made a huge, noticeable difference in handling must be a placebo effect. Kind of like an aftermarket exhaust makes the car "feel faster" type thing.

If your car feels stable under power and you dont intend to road race it, the money is probably better put to use elsewhere.

On my car, it was dangerous under power due to the instability of the rear. The instability was eliminated by the aftermarket suspension. My car wouldnt align to spec in the rear with the factory arms.

I'm surprised they let my car out of the factory like that. So much for GM QC!

[Scargoes]

Factory links are fine. If you want a more stable feel in the rear, you could swap in the ZL1 1LE cradle bushings(aluminum vs rubber) or the BMR lockout kit. Also could add a bit more rear toe in an the alignment.