[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Hey guys, I have been compiling a list of items that offer some weight reduction in order to calculate a "cost per pound"

Most of the items below I weighed myself, so I know the numbers are accurate... Looking for some shared examples of additional items we can add to the list...

Hoping this helps others in their weight reduction journey!

Anti-Gravity 40ah Battery… $825
45.5lbs vs 14.5lbs (31lb savings)
$26.60 per pound
$16 per pound when you offset the OEM replacement option.

Monster Aluminum Flywheel $155 extra
12lbs vs. 20lbs (8lbs savings)
$19.35 per pound)

Girodisk Rotors… $2,350
118.5lbs vs 94lbs (24.5lbs savings)
$95 per pound
$20 per pound when you offset the cost of OEM replacements

BMR Motor Mounts… $285
16lbs vs 11lbs (5lbs savings)
$57 per pound

Gulf Coast CF Driveshaft… $2,000
38lbs vs 15lbs (23lbs savings)
$87 per pound
$65 per pound when you offset the OEM replacement option.

Monster S Triple Disk $2,150
49lbs vs. 66lbs (17lbs savings)
$126 per pound)
$75 per pound when you offset the OEM cost option.

AC Carbon Fiber Doors… $4,000
90lbs vs 40lbs 50lbs savings)
$80 per pound

AWE Track Axle-back… $925
30lbs vs 18.5lbs (11.2lbs savings)
$82.50 per pound

BMR Coil Over LCA $190
5.14lbs vs. 4.14lbs (2lbs savings total)
$100 per pound

AC Carbon Fiber Trunk Lid… $1,550
25lbs vs 10lbs (15lbs savings)
$103 per pound

APEX Lightweight Wheels… $3,750
120lbs vs 85lbs (35lbs savings)
$107.15 per pound

DMS Billet 1.7L Lid… $895
11lbs vs 6.7lbs (4.3lbs savings)
$208 per pound
$115 per pound when you offset the resell of the OEM lid

ATI Damper $525
12lbs vs 16lbs (4lbs savings)
$130 per pound

AC Carbon Fiber Fenders… $1,850
20lbs vs 8.5lbs (11.5lbs savings)
$160 per pound

Ridetech Coil Overs $3,650
54.3lbs vs 50lbs (4.3lbs savings)
$850 per pound
$453 per pound when you offset the resell of the DSSV

Would love to add more items to the list if you have there before and after weights + cost...

[vince3]

LifeP04 group 48 battery on Amazon for under $300 that saves 25-30lbs. Not as much as the antigravity but still a decent savings. They weight between 16-19lbs depending on brand from Amazon.
ATI also adds 8 horsepower on a FBO car.
Forgestars D5 and F14 might still be on sale for with 20 percent off and the set would save 40lbs in the wheels alone. Mine saved just over 62lbs with tires. Forgestars are $1330 with 20 percent off and free shipping. My car lost .4 seconds 60-130 going with lighter wheels and a 2” shorter tire. My stock wheels are tires (all 4 are 20x8.5 245/40/20) are 58.8lbs each with stock tires. My 17x10 Forgestars are 20lbs each, Conti EC2 275/40/17 are 24.8lbs each, fronts are 18x8 and are 20.9lbs each and conti EC2 245/40/18 are 23lbs each.
Full ARH system including mufflers saved 35lbs on my car, so cheap speed engineering would be save close to 30lbs because no cats. I posted the weights before, I think stock system was around 120lbs, ARH system was around 85lbs.

Rear seats are just under 30lbs
Passenger side cloth seat is 53lbs.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Lots of great information here... However, the ZLE when used for Road Racing or Track Days is a heavily battery current focused vehicle. So before you go swapping the battery out, you must consider what you are giving up and that is the reserve capacity. Before you jump into buying a lighter and smaller battery, keep a few things in mind and this is solely for your safety... nothing more.

The battery you choose is NOT just for starting the car. When you are tracking your ZLE and at WOT for long durations, the load control for the OEM 215-amp alternator is reducing the load charging or supplying the power to run everything. Keep this in mind as the battery is the supplier of immediate high-amp loads when the eLSD is running a hydraulic pump that is keeping your butt safe at 140+mph sweeping into a turn and trying to balance the entire mass based on a hydraulic pressure of wheel speed to the left & right sides. During extreme track use and the Time Attack events with Jeremy Lowder's Pike Peak ZLE, the capability of the eLSD's pump failed to keep the diff locked after 4-5 laps, allowing the right tire to break away in corners. We initially thought the diff had failed and replaced it with a new unit. Turns out the smaller Braille battery was to blame.

Also understand the intricacies of the ABS system and it's hydraulics are running off the battery that is NOT getting charged at a rate that is equal to all the circuits pulling on the capacity of the battery like the high-output cooling fan that can pull over 100-amps all on its own!! Let's add into the mix, the EPS system can pull over 100 amps as well... so you need to re-think tiny batteries for road course use!

At Road Atlanta this past weekend and at the end of each 25 minute sessions, the battery in my ZLE would lose 30-50% of its total charge. By the end of the day that was getting closer to 40-60% of its charge based upon my NOCO Smart Charger. Wanna know why your car might be getting into "Ice Mode" sooner than expected...???

We have tried the smaller lightweight batteries and now when its time to replace another one, I am looking for something with more reserve cranking amps that will keep this all in check. Of all the things you can reduce weight and size for the ZLE... the battery is not one I would suggest skimping on. Either go with TWO small ones or actually adding one larger with more reserve amp-rated capacity is the key here!

As for carbon fiber parts, those of you who follow my updates might know we are building massive high-percentage Carbon Fiber Yachts overseas. The same contacts I have there, are the providers to GM and other US Automakers for OEM Carbon parts... and, the same exact parts sold by other USA sellers. Due to our massive shipping capabilities with these boats, I will begin importing the same OEM quality parts without the tariffs and passing that savings to our friends here.

So that cost per pound value will soon go up as well!

I'm learning its way cheaper just to lose the weight between the Accelerator Pedal and the steering wheel!

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE;11506962
[URL="https://www.griffin-motorsports.com/shop/p/bmr-motor-mounts-poly-bushings"

BMR Motor Mounts[/URL]… $285
16lbs vs 11lbs (5lbs savings)
$57 per pound

you have been running these mounts for a couple years now right? any odd wear or noises that have come from it? how is the NHV after a couple years?

[bishopts]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

Lots of great information here... However, the ZLE when used for Road Racing or Track Days is a heavily battery current focused vehicle. So before you go swapping the battery out, you must consider what you are giving up and that is the reserve capacity. Before you jump into buying a lighter and smaller battery, keep a few things in mind and this is solely for your safety... nothing more.

The battery you choose is NOT just for starting the car. When you are tracking your ZLE and at WOT for long durations, the load control for the OEM 215-amp alternator is reducing the load charging or supplying the power to run everything. Keep this in mind as the battery is the supplier of immediate high-amp loads when the eLSD is running a hydraulic pump that is keeping your butt safe at 140+mph sweeping into a turn and trying to balance the entire mass based on a hydraulic pressure of wheel speed to the left & right sides. During extreme track use and the Time Attack events with Jeremy Lowder's Pike Peak ZLE, the capability of the eLSD's pump failed to keep the diff locked after 4-5 laps, allowing the right tire to break away in corners. We initially thought the diff had failed and replaced it with a new unit. Turns out the smaller Braille battery was to blame.

Also understand the intricacies of the ABS system and it's hydraulics are running off the battery that is NOT getting charged at a rate that is equal to all the circuits pulling on the capacity of the battery like the high-output cooling fan that can pull over 100-amps all on its own!! Let's add into the mix, the EPS system can pull over 100 amps as well... so you need to re-think tiny batteries for road course use!

At Road Atlanta this past weekend and at the end of each 25 minute sessions, the battery in my ZLE would lose 30-50% of its total charge. By the end of the day that was getting closer to 40-60% of its charge based upon my NOCO Smart Charger. Wanna know why your car might be getting into "Ice Mode" sooner than expected...???

We have tried the smaller lightweight batteries and now when its time to replace another one, I am looking for something with more reserve cranking amps that will keep this all in check. Of all the things you can reduce weight and size for the ZLE... the battery is not one I would suggest skimping on. Either go with TWO small ones or actually adding one larger with more reserve amp-rated capacity is the key here!

As for carbon fiber parts, those of you who follow my updates might know we are building massive high-percentage Carbon Fiber Yachts overseas. The same contacts I have there, are the providers to GM and other US Automakers for OEM Carbon parts... and, the same exact parts sold by other USA sellers. Due to our massive shipping capabilities with these boats, I will begin importing the same OEM quality parts without the tariffs and passing that savings to our friends here.

So that cost per pound value will soon go up as well!

I'm learning its way cheaper just to lose the weight between the Accelerator Pedal and the steering wheel!

have you tried running a capacitor battery in parallel ? they dont weigh much of anything and the charge and discharge rate might help reduce pull from the main battery. the last one i had was like 500 cranking amps but it could go from depleted to fully charged in 2 mins with no other battery attached.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by bishopts

have you tried running a capacitor battery in parallel ? they dont weigh much of anything and the charge and discharge rate might help reduce pull from the main battery. the last one i had was like 500 cranking amps but it could go from depleted to fully charged in 2 mins with no other battery attached.

Its a good question if that would work. Max time on the track is about 25-30 minutes and in such, I have found my car drags the start as the day goes on... causing the necessity for me to bring a high capacity battery charger this past event to keep the battery fresh between sessions. I also have my OEM 2021 battery in the car... so that too can be part of the issue. However, the issues with Jeremy's car is still from the lack of reserve capacity from the Braille. So maybe adding two of these lighter batteries is better than the weight penalty of the stock one.

[KingLT1]

I would stick with an AGM battery...the weight is where you want it anyway.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I would stick with an AGM battery...the weight is where you want it anyway.

Big Facts... offsetting my fat-ass!!!

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by bishopts

you have been running these mounts for a couple years now right? any odd wear or noises that have come from it? how is the NHV after a couple years?

Hey buddy, yes sir, still running mine and LOVE them... 100% suggest installing with headers or if the engine is out. Zero negatives, only positives! Could not recommend more.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by vince3

LifeP04 group 48 battery on Amazon for under $300 that saves 25-30lbs. Not as much as the antigravity but still a decent savings. They weight between 16-19lbs depending on brand from Amazon.
ATI also adds 8 horsepower on a FBO car.
Forgestars D5 and F14 might still be on sale for with 20 percent off and the set would save 40lbs in the wheels alone. Mine saved just over 62lbs with tires. Forgestars are $1330 with 20 percent off and free shipping. My car lost .4 seconds 60-130 going with lighter wheels and a 2” shorter tire. My stock wheels are tires (all 4 are 20x8.5 245/40/20) are 58.8lbs each with stock tires. My 17x10 Forgestars are 20lbs each, Conti EC2 275/40/17 are 24.8lbs each, fronts are 18x8 and are 20.9lbs each and conti EC2 245/40/18 are 23lbs each.
Full ARH system including mufflers saved 35lbs on my car, so cheap speed engineering would be save close to 30lbs because no cats. I posted the weights before, I think stock system was around 120lbs, ARH system was around 85lbs.

Rear seats are just under 30lbs
Passenger side cloth seat is 53lbs.

Great point on the exhaust side... I never pulled weights when I did mine.... but I have a customer build coming up that I'll be double checking on the weights on for accuracy on the list.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Patriot Motorsports USA

Lots of great information here... However, the ZLE when used for Road Racing or Track Days is a heavily battery current focused vehicle. So before you go swapping the battery out, you must consider what you are giving up and that is the reserve capacity. Before you jump into buying a lighter and smaller battery, keep a few things in mind and this is solely for your safety... nothing more.

The battery you choose is NOT just for starting the car. When you are tracking your ZLE and at WOT for long durations, the load control for the OEM 215-amp alternator is reducing the load charging or supplying the power to run everything. Keep this in mind as the battery is the supplier of immediate high-amp loads when the eLSD is running a hydraulic pump that is keeping your butt safe at 140+mph sweeping into a turn and trying to balance the entire mass based on a hydraulic pressure of wheel speed to the left & right sides. During extreme track use and the Time Attack events with Jeremy Lowder's Pike Peak ZLE, the capability of the eLSD's pump failed to keep the diff locked after 4-5 laps, allowing the right tire to break away in corners. We initially thought the diff had failed and replaced it with a new unit. Turns out the smaller Braille battery was to blame.

Also understand the intricacies of the ABS system and it's hydraulics are running off the battery that is NOT getting charged at a rate that is equal to all the circuits pulling on the capacity of the battery like the high-output cooling fan that can pull over 100-amps all on its own!! Let's add into the mix, the EPS system can pull over 100 amps as well... so you need to re-think tiny batteries for road course use!

At Road Atlanta this past weekend and at the end of each 25 minute sessions, the battery in my ZLE would lose 30-50% of its total charge. By the end of the day that was getting closer to 40-60% of its charge based upon my NOCO Smart Charger. Wanna know why your car might be getting into "Ice Mode" sooner than expected...???

We have tried the smaller lightweight batteries and now when its time to replace another one, I am looking for something with more reserve cranking amps that will keep this all in check. Of all the things you can reduce weight and size for the ZLE... the battery is not one I would suggest skimping on. Either go with TWO small ones or actually adding one larger with more reserve amp-rated capacity is the key here!

As for carbon fiber parts, those of you who follow my updates might know we are building massive high-percentage Carbon Fiber Yachts overseas. The same contacts I have there, are the providers to GM and other US Automakers for OEM Carbon parts... and, the same exact parts sold by other USA sellers. Due to our massive shipping capabilities with these boats, I will begin importing the same OEM quality parts without the tariffs and passing that savings to our friends here.

So that cost per pound value will soon go up as well!

I'm learning its way cheaper just to lose the weight between the Accelerator Pedal and the steering wheel!

WOW, did not realize you drain the battery that fast on the track...

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

I would stick with an AGM battery...the weight is where you want it anyway.

Good point, I think thats why I have not changed mine out yet...
Just interesting to see it appears to be the most cost effective weight reduction if in need of a replacement battery anyway.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

WOW, did not realize you drain the battery that fast on the track...

Sure Does!! Think about all the critical stuff that is operating and doing so at 100% thresholds.

• ABS... nonstop interaction with PTM
  
• Cooling fan... full high speed
  
• Solenoids in the transmission (A10)
  
• EPS is getting a workout as the tires get sticky AF!!
  
• Fuel Lift Pump is running flat out too!!
  
• SC Cooling Pump
  
• Injectors, BCM, TCM, ECU, and the stereo for Garmin Catalyst at the loudest setting so I can hear it over the windows being down.
  
• And lastly... the eLSD is pulling power to keep the diff locked and unlocked in a constant battle for traction.

[bishopts]

https://www.amazon.com/YGSAM-Gold-Pl...0F99LGZKC?th=1

sodium Ion battery on amazon. other brands say 10 pounds. this one says 14 pounds. H6 form