[meSSohappy]

19,000 kms ago (car had 21,000kms on it) I had po300 code and took it to dealer. They replaced #2 injector and put in factory plugs, gapped at .030-.032. Previous plus were brisk racing.
They tested the wires and found an issue with #4 cylinder wire. Replaced and upgraded the wires from 8mm to 10mm. All was good until now. Car has 40,00kms. I'm having the same symptoms but no codes on my HP tuner scan.
I'm gonna replace my plugs and go from there. Seen lots of different plug suggestions...mostly NGK. My performance shop and tuner say to run the stock plugs, which cross reference to a NGK G-Power LTR5GP 5019 w/.032 gap. Has anyone else ran this plug? Other option is the NGK Iridium IX LTR5IX-11 4344 w/ .032?

TIA

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Brisk is what I run, and I'll never use any other plug ! Good luck !

[RobZL1]

Too much boost with an X port and 22% lower for factory plug heat range. Defintely don't run a set of 5 heat range NGKs. Run a set of Brisk rr12s and gap them a little tighter. Prepare to replace them every 15-20k km though. Boost eats plugs.

[ZLRob]

I run LTR7BHX NGK Ruthenium's. They are PSPE (projected square tip's on the electrodes) and are specifically designed to work with boost applications. They are heat range 7 plugs which is what you need for the power you are making. Had them in since 28K, got the mileage up to 48K now. They have given me zero issue. They just work.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I run LTR7BHX NGK Ruthenium's. They are PSPE (projected square tip's on the electrodes) and are specifically designed to work with boost applications. They are heat range 7 plugs which is what you need for the power you are making. Had them in since 28K, got the mileage up to 48K now. They have given me zero issue. They just work.

Why didn't you go brisk? They seem to be all the rage these days.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Too much boost with an X port and 22% lower for factory plug heat range. Defintely don't run a set of 5 heat range NGKs. Run a set of Brisk rr12s and gap them a little tighter. Prepare to replace them every 15-20k km though. Boost eats plugs.

EXACTLY what RobZL1 said!! Search my posts, and watch this video and skip ahead if you like as I get VERY descriptive as to WHY you want to use BRISK and nothing with Platinum, Iridium or Unobtanium in your LT4.

https://youtu.be/YNWLVMu1dqY?si=dtof4vLpAiA4Odsy&t=540

[KingLT1]

I have been running NGK LTR7IX in my LT1 @ 9-11psi since 2019 with no issues. It's much higher compression with a much weaker piston vs a LT4. I am going to try Brisk RR14's next but point is the type of plug isn't your issue, but you do want a colder plug than a 5. A 6-heat range is stock for LT4 engines. I would do Brisk RR14/12 or NGK 7's for your power level.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by clg82

Why didn't you go brisk? They seem to be all the rage these days.

I have heard of them and contemplated using them at one point, but decided against it over a tried and true brand like NGK which I've been using since the 90's. Maybe it's the old dinosaur tech in me, but I'm not huge on following "latest trends" which is what I feel like those plugs are. Am I wrong? Yeah maybe entirely so, but I have yet to find a motivating or compelling reason as to why to make a switch. I have been using these type of plugs since they were released around 2015 and have never had a single problem with them. If anything they actually seemed to make the idle smoother and lessen the chance of knock (fuel here in the golden state is absolute garbage). I like them so much that I run it in every single one of my toys. Both supercharged and NA and they cost as much if not even a little less than Iridium's depending where you get them from so it was an easy no nonsense no extra cost switch over for me.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

I have heard of them and contemplated using them at one point, but decided against it over a tried and true brand like NGK which I've been using since the 90's. Maybe it's the old dinosaur tech in me, but I'm not huge on following "latest trends" which is what I feel like those plugs are. Am I wrong? Yeah maybe entirely so, but I have yet to find a motivating or compelling reason as to why to make a switch. I have been using these type of plugs since they were released around 2015 and have never had a single problem with them. If anything they actually seemed to make the idle smoother and lessen the chance of knock (fuel here in the golden state is absolute garbage). I like them so much that I run it in every single one of my toys. Both supercharged and NA and they cost as much if not even a little less than Iridium's depending where you get them from so it was an easy no nonsense no extra cost switch over for me.

If it's not broke don't fix it haha....how you smog that car in Cali is another great story i'd like to hear some day haha

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by clg82

If it's not broke don't fix it haha....how you smog that car in Cali is another great story i'd like to hear some day haha

If it's not broke don't fix it. Exactly!

As for smog. It's not hard at all. I actually just went for one and passed here very recently. It's not hard if you understand their process and what they are doing.

[clg82]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

If it's not broke don't fix it. Exactly!

As for smog. It's not hard at all. I actually just went for one and passed here very recently. It's not hard if you understand their process and what they are doing.

Send me "your guy"

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by clg82

Send me "your guy"

I don't have "a guy" though. I just go wherever is open. If you'd like, I can send you a list of locations you can go to in the general regional area because they're all "my guys."

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Just to add to the conversation...

BRISK Plugs are nothing new as they have been around since 1935. They have been the OEM for many European companies before coming to the USA in the 1990s to fill the OEM replacement market for VW, Porsche, SAAB, Mercedes, Ferrari and Lamborghini to mention a few marques we all recognize.

The call for the trend is our ZL1's ECU technology has the capability to communicate with the Coilpacks, thus the name "Smart Coils" is for our benefit of tuning and troubleshooting. When the coilpacks are swapped out for some aftermarket brand, without taking into consideration the focus of operation parameters, frequency of communication and then the plug wires are swapped for resistances lower than the optimum range for such inputs/feedback to the ECU, then you are essentially "dumbing down" your ECU to offer peak performance.

Using a softer silver, better conductor for this communication process means you are giving your ECU the correct tools to regulate spark, read for issues and relay information in micro-seconds to the ECU. This also is a sacrificial metal which is soft when it does ignite with a knock or misfire alerting the ECU there is a problem before it causes irreputable damage to the engine.

https://briskracing.com/pages/brisk-company-history

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Just to add to the conversation...

BRISK Plugs are nothing new as they have been around since 1935. They have been the OEM for many European companies before coming to the USA in the 1990s to fill the OEM replacement market for VW, Porsche, SAAB, Mercedes, Ferrari and Lamborghini to mention a few marques we all recognize.

The call for the trend is our ZL1's ECU technology has the capability to communicate with the Coilpacks, thus the name "Smart Coils" is for our benefit of tuning and troubleshooting. When the coilpacks are swapped out for some aftermarket brand, without taking into consideration the focus of operation parameters, frequency of communication and then the plug wires are swapped for resistances lower than the optimum range for such inputs/feedback to the ECU, then you are essentially "dumbing down" your ECU to offer peak performance.

Using a softer silver, better conductor for this communication process means you are giving your ECU the correct tools to regulate spark, read for issues and relay information in micro-seconds to the ECU. This also is a sacrificial metal which is soft when it does ignite with a knock or misfire alerting the ECU there is a problem before it causes irreputable damage to the engine.

https://briskracing.com/pages/brisk-company-history