[2018zl1-1le]

I’ve searched but can’t find the answer I’m looking for so.
By just installing the triple heat exchangers how much cooler will the IAT3 be?
Currently with factory driving it’s about 40* over ambient air temperature if it’s 60* runs at 100* 90* it’s at 130* just want to know real world results. If anyone knows please and thanks
P.s. I know there are different options but this is what I’m going with

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Ask Gabe might be a good thing to do. He has a great designed system for what your referring to. Check out his Phase 2 Build thread ! https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609588 and this thread as well! https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633967

[D3adch1ld]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

Ask Gabe might be a good thing to do. He has a great designed system for what your referring to. Check out his Phase 2 Build thread ! https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609588 and this thread as well! https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=633967

Second that.

Sent from my SM-S938U1 using Tapatalk

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Hey buddy, I agree... it's hard to find simple before and after data because so many guys (myself included) bundle their upgrades, rather than isolating them for better performance metrics which absolutely saves time and $, but leaves many of us without the data needed to make sound decisions. For that I sympathize.

That said, I am sure there are a few people on Camaro.6 that can help.

Just keep in mind, that cooling mods in general have a hard time making any changes to IAT.3 / MAT temps. Why? because IAT.3 / MAT temps are calculated and heavily biased towards a higher number in order to help keep the motor safe.

When comparing the effectiveness of cooling mods it's best to use IAT.2 which is the raw sensor data.

[2018zl1-1le]

So which is better to monitor IAT.2 or 3, which temp actually pulls timing when it’s over 140*?

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by 2018zl1-1le

So which is better to monitor IAT.2 or 3, which temp actually pulls timing when it’s over 140*?

I monitor both. Tracking / logging IAT.2 will give you the real world data on effectiveness of your HX cooling system. Like in your case, before and after cooling / performance mods.

I also track / log IAT.3's because thats the number used in your IAT vs. Timing table... and although it is a calculated number, it is the number that will determine your timing or lack their of.

The stock tune starts to pull timing at 133F.
I know many tuners will raise that ceiling, especially when the car is using E85. If your car is tuned, I'd check that table to see what it is for you, and that way you can track it for awareness purposes.

That said, it's ok if your IAT.3's are higher than that... but if you were racing then you would at least know where you are at in the cooling process. Would love for one of our tuners to chime in to add or subtract from my current understanding.

Which is why I often say that the Banks iDash is the BEST first mod for the ZL1, because you get that critical data, along with a dozen other amazing features.

Hope that helped, and good luck in your efforts to go faster and stay cooler

[Megahurtz]

No matter how much you upgrade the heat exchangers and coolant capacity, the issue is the stock intercooler bricks in the LT4 supercharger. They just can't exchange heat fast enough when you start pushing the blower real hard.

The coolant mods and even the interchiller will allow you start a pull with cooler temps and recover faster after a pull. But they will not do much to keep the heat down during a pull. Your best bet here is to spray a small shot of meth or meth/water as well.

[Joshinator99]

I’m running the AFCO triple heat exchanger package and they work well. But to Megahurtz’s point, my Whipple 3.0 has massive internal bricks that can work well with the triple heat exchangers.

Doing the AFCO triple heat exchangers will help but it’s only one part of the problem the stock blower has.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

When I data logged a few weekends ago when I went to the drag strip. My IAT.2 was higher at the start of the 1/4 mile race than when I finished, by 4°F. Kirk at FI Interchillers told me that with my Stage 2, the IAT.2 should be no higher (and should actually be lower), at the end vs the start. My data log confirms this. To add, the ambient was 86°F and track temp was 97°F I only have the FI Interchiller Stage 2 and not a triple heat exchanger setup.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

When I data logged a few weekends ago when I went to the drag strip. My IAT.2 was higher at the start of the 1/4 mile race than when I finished, by 4°F. Kirk at FI Interchillers told me that with my Stage 2, the IAT.2 should be no higher (and should actually be lower), at the end vs the start. My data log confirms this. To add, the ambient was 86°F and track temp was 97°F I only have the FI Interchiller Stage 2 and not a triple heat exchanger setup.

FYI my IAT2 is cooler at the end of the run than at the beginning as well. No interchiller. Just the AFCO triple heat exchangers and no storage tank either. And I’m moving a good bit of air into the engine…

[Megahurtz]

Pretty sure IAT 2 is pre rotor and intercooler. I see IAT2 drop on stock cars.

IAT3 is allegedly the true post rotor temp. MAT's are calculated based on multiple sensors.

That's how I've always understood and tuned with.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Pretty sure IAT 2 is pre rotor and intercooler. I see IAT2 drop on stock cars.

IAT3 is allegedly the true post rotor temp. MAT's are calculated based on multiple sensors.

That's how I've always understood and tuned with.

Hey Megahertz...
It's my understanding that IAT.2's come from the TMAP sensor at the back of the drivers side blower (post intercooler bricks) Which is why those numbers will / should decrease after a pull thanks to higher air velocity, and reduced heat soak from the intake runners / blower. Air is moving too fast to heat up. (this assumes your HX system is working properly) The only problem that I am aware of is that the OEM sensor is very slow acting, and does not accurately capture spikes in temp changes.

Which is why I am adding a new RIFE IAT sensor on the passenger side, as well as an IAT temp sensor on the hot side of the blower. I am not certain, but I believe I'll be the first. Doing this to better support future testing and system design. Stay tuned for more on this one!

MAT's are calculated as you noted, from RPM, Speed, ECT, EOT, Ambient Temps, Boost Pressure, etc...

I guess the logic is that it would be too risky to base your timing curve on the actual IAT.2 sensor data, and should there be an issue with the sensor the car could suffer. It seems much safer to base the timing table on a calculated number that ignores the spikes in IAT.2 if they did exist. The problem for us, is that number is heavily biased for safety, not power efficiency.

I suppose thats why many tuners will raise the IAT.3 threshold for timing being pulled?

That said, do you ever adjust that table? If so, can you share your methodology?

[RobZL1]

Just worth noting- this table doesn't start pulling timing at 133. That is how everyone refers to it, and it may just be semantics, but it's actually pulling timing at anything over 111. It interpolates the timing values between the temperature points. So for example, at WOT and 122F, you're seeing a -2deg timing adjustment. Maybe everyone already understands this, but I wanted to post just in case.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Just worth noting- this table doesn't start pulling timing at 133. That is how everyone refers to it, and it may just be semantics, but it's actually pulling timing at anything over 111. It interpolates the timing values between the temperature points. So for example, at WOT and 122F, you're seeing a -2deg timing adjustment. Maybe everyone already understands this, but I wanted to post just in case.

Hey Rob... that is insightful for sure. I did not understand it that way!
I'll have ti check my past logs for this.
Gotta keep these things cool thats for sure!