[dreksnot]

I'd like to get opinions on what I need to do. Haven't run but, maybe, 50 road course laps and 3 autocrosses with them and I already corded one on the outside shoulder. I was originally thinking not enough camber but really have the thought that I should be zero front toe after scouring this forum. The middle and inner tread depth measurements are still 50-80% of the original tread depth (fronts).

As for the rears, I'm thinking too much tire pressure and too much toe. Should I be closer to 0.05° than what I have?

In photo: Left tire is Front (outer edge is left), Right tire is Rear (outer edge is right).

[Msquared]

I zero out the front toe, yeah; but you have very little in it right now. That's not the issue. I would max out the camber at both ends and go with zero toe front and about 1/16" (or about 0.14 degrees) rear toe in. You should be able to get around -2.7 deg camber up front and -1.9 in back. I agree with you about inflation pressures in back.

This is all somewhat dependent on tire brand/model, too. What tires are those? I'm having trouble recognizing the tread patterns.

[sgreer78]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I zero out the front toe, yeah; but you have very little in it right now. That's not the issue. I would max out the camber at both ends and go with zero toe front and about 1/16" (or about 0.14 degrees) rear toe in. You should be able to get around -2.7 deg camber up front and -1.9 in back. I agree with you about inflation pressures in back.

This is all somewhat dependent on tire brand/model, too. What tires are those? I'm having trouble recognizing the tread patterns.

They look like Hoosiers.

[Msquared]

Originally Posted by sgreer78

They look like Hoosiers.

I think you're right. I (obviously) have no experience with those, but I bet they'll happily take a lot more camber than the OP has. Speaking of which, dreksnot, if your car is a ZL1 1LE, then it should be able to get more camber than our SS 1LEs, at least in front. If you can get -3.0, that's probably a good starting point. That will produce some inside shoulder wear during street driving, but it should minimize the outside shoulder wear at the track. It just depends on how much street driving you mix in on these tires.

[clyde]

Hoosier Track Attack Pro is kinda made for people that don't care about spending money and aren't known for comparing favorably to anything else when it comes to wear. If the track laps and autocrosses had heavy rights and/or a bit of overdriving, that wear does not look out all that out of line of what I might expect.

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by Msquared

I think you're right. I (obviously) have no experience with those, but I bet they'll happily take a lot more camber than the OP has. Speaking of which, dreksnot, if your car is a ZL1 1LE, then it should be able to get more camber than our SS 1LEs, at least in front. If you can get -3.0, that's probably a good starting point. That will produce some inside shoulder wear during street driving, but it should minimize the outside shoulder wear at the track. It just depends on how much street driving you mix in on these tires.

About what I figured for my Hoosier TrackAttack Pros. When I first ran them, they heated up quick and gripped like the SC3Rs. Only question was how they were going to wear after my aggressive street alignment was done earlier on. Not worrying how they will wear on the street as I'll throw my Michelin 4Ss on for that. I'll probably dedicate the Hoosiers to autocross, the SC3Rs for road course though (due to their warmup times).

Yes, on my ZLE. I'll rotate the plates today (-1.9° is max for them now) and head to the alignment shop this week to add more front and rear camber, plus zero out front and near zero rear (all compared to what I have it set now). Then go have some fun.

[VR Baron]

I don’t have experience with track attack pro’s, but autocross with a friend who runs them. Stock ZLE, camber is -3.2 front and -2.2 rear, 0 toe f, not sure about the rear. Runs 305/325 like stock. About 90 runs now and wearing down as they only come with 5/32 of tread. The wear is good but he runs tire psi per Hoosier printout. Used 34/32 cold and that go’s to 37/35 hot for autocross. Hope that helps some

[TransamGTA350]

I agree with others that you don't have enough negative camber. The GM track guide for the ZLE recommends -2.7F/-2.0R camber, so I would go with at least that much, but probably more like 3.0-3.2 Front and 2.0-2.2 Rear. Zero toe front and about 1/32"-1/16" toe in rear. Follow Hoosier's tire pressure recommendations.

[WhiteMale]

On the rear toe I would probably want something that is on the edge of the spec for toe in vs zero.

[Dabjbr]

I'll add... my alignment is -3.2F, -2.4R camber and 0.0F a .05R toe. I'm also running 305/30/19 square wheels and tires and rotate every event. I'm running this setup to have a little more front traction but more so to extend life.

Even with this approach, I still wear outside shoulders first and it's from the front. In other words, you can minimize shoulder wear to some extent but I do not believe you can totally avoid it.

If anyone has experience otherwise, I'd love to hear it!

[dreksnot]

I got about 2 degrees more camber after rotating the ZLE plates (-3.7F), and a whack amount of toe change -- from 0.06 to 0.90 total toe. I wanted to see how much they'd change that, just to know.

I'm going to try -2.5F camber, 0F toe and -1.6R with near zero R toe to see how performance/wear goes. I'm still dialing in air pressures with the Hoosiers but have this weekend to play with that.

[TransamGTA350]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

I got about 2 degrees more camber after rotating the ZLE plates (-3.7F), and a whack amount of toe change -- from 0.06 to 0.90 total toe. I wanted to see how much they'd change that, just to know.

I'm going to try -2.5F camber, 0F toe and -1.6R with near zero R toe to see how performance/wear goes. I'm still dialing in air pressures with the Hoosiers but have this weekend to play with that.

Are you daily driving this car? If so, then I think your alignment numbers are OK as a compromise between street and track, realizing that on the track with those alignment specs the outside edge is still going to wear faster than the rest of the tire.

If it's a track car with a little bit of street use, I would go more aggressive on the camber (3.0-3.3F/2.0-2.3R). You'll get more track life out of the tires and will be quicker.

Regarding the Hoosiers, I've never run them, but they seem to have mixed reviews. Wearing quickly and heat cycling out early seems to be the reported negatives.

I've heard a lot of good things about the Vitour P1's, talked to a number of people who run them. Probably going to try them out next (I'm running RE71RS's currently). The only bad thing I've heard is that they take a bit of heat to wake them up (similar to a Goodyear SC3), but otherwise seem to be fast, don't overheat on long sessions and have a reasonably long life.

[dreksnot]

Originally Posted by TransamGTA350

Are you daily driving this car? If so, then I think your alignment numbers are OK as a compromise between street and track, realizing that on the track with those alignment specs the outside edge is still going to wear faster than the rest of the tire.

If it's a track car with a little bit of street use, I would go more aggressive on the camber (3.0-3.3F/2.0-2.3R). You'll get more track life out of the tires and will be quicker.

Regarding the Hoosiers, I've never run them, but they seem to have mixed reviews. Wearing quickly and heat cycling out early seems to be the reported negatives.

I've heard a lot of good things about the Vitour P1's, talked to a number of people who run them. Probably going to try them out next (I'm running RE71RS's currently). The only bad thing I've heard is that they take a bit of heat to wake them up (similar to a Goodyear SC3), but otherwise seem to be fast, don't overheat on long sessions and have a reasonably long life.

I do drive the car a lot on the street, but I usually put the Michelin 4S tires on, then swap to the TrackAttacks or SC3Rs when running events. I expect more inside wear on the street driving tires and they're definitely harder, but quieter on the street. We'll see how things work. I do/did want a compromise, but may very well end up just going full track alignement and live with the wear.

I've also heard good things about the Vitours. Gotta give them a run next tire purchase time. Thanks!

[Dabjbr]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

I got about 2 degrees more camber after rotating the ZLE plates (-3.7F), and a whack amount of toe change -- from 0.06 to 0.90 total toe. I wanted to see how much they'd change that, just to know.

I'm going to try -2.5F camber, 0F toe and -1.6R with near zero R toe to see how performance/wear goes. I'm still dialing in air pressures with the Hoosiers but have this weekend to play with that.

That is insane! I've always wonder what rotating the plates did to toe. Didn't think it would be that extreme!