[GreenZLE]

I'm modding my ZLE with a 215/232 cam+32% fuel lobe, Kong Ported blower=w/10% overdrive, CID heads, remote oil cooler, headers, and supporting mods including an unlocked HPT A-10 PCM running on 93 octane. Are 30% over injectors a must? What power should I expect? Anything else I should be thinking of? My main concern is temps on a road course.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by GreenZLE

I'm modding my ZLE with a 215/232 cam+32% fuel lobe, Kong Ported blower=w/10% overdrive, CID heads, remote oil cooler, headers, and supporting mods including an unlocked HPT A-10 PCM running on 93 octane. Are 30% over injectors a must? What power should I expect? Anything else I should be thinking of? My main concern is temps on a road course.

For what you are going to be running, YES. You will need 30+ injectors and either a DSX dual in tank pump or a Katech dual in tank pump. You will be topped out on fuel delivery for sure on the set up that you will be running. I know this because even with a 32% fuel lobe, 30+ injectors, and a Katech dual in tank pump setup on mine I am just about topped out on injector PW still, running an LT1 cam with a 32% fuel lobe, Jokerz full tilt ported blower, a DSX 12% lower pulley, and full pump E85. Any more power adder mods or more pulley on my setup and I'll exceed desirable injector PW's.

If you insist on running on running gas on your set up I would recommend getting a lid, an external LTR reservoir for the blower, and a GMS hood extractor bracket. I would also run some water wetter to help shed some of that heat soak more effectively.

[Megahurtz]

If you plan to run E85, yes you will need bigger injectors. You will also need a low side solution. You could get away with a JMS booster or a DSX Aux as the easiest options. I'm not a fan of any external tank pump setup so I would get the JMS if these are your final mods or an in tank solution if you plan to push is further.

The JMS will be on the edge on this setup depending how much E you try to run.

[KingLT1]

You will only need a JMS for pump gas. For E85 you will want to get a Goliath HPFP, XDI +50's, and either an Aux pump or dual tank pump. No point in doing just injectors for E or you end up hitting a bottle neck elsewhere rather quickly.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

If you plan to run E85, yes you will need bigger injectors. You will also need a low side solution. You could get away with a JMS booster or a DSX Aux as the easiest options. I'm not a fan of any external tank pump setup so I would get the JMS if these are your final mods or an in tank solution if you plan to push is further.

The JMS will be on the edge on this setup depending how much E you try to run.

Originally Posted by KingLT1

You will only need a JMS for pump gas. For E85 you will want to get a Goliath HPFP, XDI +50's, and either an Aux pump or dual tank pump. No point in doing just injectors for E or you end up hitting a bottle neck elsewhere rather quickly.

My JMS lasted about two years on my setup before it took out my stock pump. Everything worked fine until I would throttle it to the higher RPM range, then it would start falling off spectacularly. No indicators of failure unless you would log it on HPT, pretty dangerous stuff.

I don't recommend it if you are going to be right at the threshold for maximum capabilities of it.

[Evansa22]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

My JMS lasted about two years on my setup before it took out my stock pump. Everything worked fine until I would throttle it to the higher RPM range, then it would start falling off spectacularly. No indicators of failure unless you would log it on HPT, pretty dangerous stuff.

I don't recommend it if you are going to be right at the threshold for maximum capabilities of it.

So the JMS ran the pump at higher voltages than oem and caused it to burn up prematurely? Wondering as I have one on the car and my tuner warned about that possibility, so I turned the voltage down to 16 I think it is. Would imagine it's still at risk of failure though

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

My JMS lasted about two years on my setup before it took out my stock pump. Everything worked fine until I would throttle it to the higher RPM range, then it would start falling off spectacularly. No indicators of failure unless you would log it on HPT, pretty dangerous stuff.

I don't recommend it if you are going to be right at the threshold for maximum capabilities of it.

Originally Posted by Evansa22

So the JMS ran the pump at higher voltages than oem and caused it to burn up prematurely? Wondering as I have one on the car and my tuner warned about that possibility, so I turned the voltage down to 16 I think it is. Would imagine it's still at risk of failure though

Don't push the voltage past 17.3v and you will be fine. Some people try to run them at 17.5-17.8 volts which is too much. On the latest low side pumps from the ZR1, I run the JMS around 17.25v and have had no issues.

[GreenZLE]

Thanks everyone for the input! I do not plan on running ethanol for the time being.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Evansa22

So the JMS ran the pump at higher voltages than oem and caused it to burn up prematurely? Wondering as I have one on the car and my tuner warned about that possibility, so I turned the voltage down to 16 I think it is. Would imagine it's still at risk of failure though

Well ultimately the problem is that you are over- volting an electro- mechanical item that is designed to work within a specific voltage range (usually 15 volts for 12V items). I always understood this from the beginning, but based on the general reviews that the setup has gotten I figured it would be okay as long as I stayed within the specified range prior to cavitating the pump itself.

As it turns out, while, yes, it expanded the capabilities and limitations of the pump, it also was its responsible for its undoing. Failure up high is not something that anyone wants on these motors at all considering lack of fuel supply can cause it to grenade. I'm lucky I caught it while logging because otherwise it could have been a VERY costly end result. In my eyes, the JMS is not worth it, all for what, trying to save a buck? Better to buy once, and cry once but be entirely done with it.

Looking back on it, as it has been stated on several other occasions by others, the JMS is ultimately a band aid solution that is limited in time. If you are already at thresholds where you need more fuel pump, it is better to just do it right once, and do a double in tank pump setup or even a triple. The only two fuel pump setups that I recommend (which are also the only two available outside of fore) are the Katech or the DSX dual in tank pumps. For those wanting to make big HP the obvious only other solution is the Fore in tank triple pump setup. Those do not come bucketed, so you will need to install a hydramat in place of the strainers, but starvation under high G's with the Fores are a very real thing (unless you run the hydramats) which is ultimately why I recommend you stick with an OEM style solution that offers bucketed reserve fuel.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

Well ultimately the problem is that you are over- volting an electro- mechanical item that is designed to work within a specific voltage range (usually 15 volts for 12V items). I always understood this from the beginning, but based on the general reviews that the setup has gotten I figured it would be okay as long as I stayed within the specified range prior to cavitating the pump itself.

As it turns out, while, yes, it expanded the capabilities and limitations of the pump, it also was its responsible for its undoing. Failure up high is not something that anyone wants on these motors at all considering lack of fuel supply can cause it to grenade. I'm lucky I caught it while logging because otherwise it could have been a VERY costly end result. In my eyes, the JMS is not worth it, all for what, trying to save a buck? Better to buy once, and cry once but be entirely done with it.

Looking back on it, as it has been stated on several other occasions by others, the JMS is ultimately a band aid solution that is limited in time. If you are already at thresholds where you need more fuel pump, it is better to just do it right once, and do a double in tank pump setup or even a triple. The only two fuel pump setups that I recommend (which are also the only two available outside of fore) are the Katech or the DSX dual in tank pumps. For those wanting to make big HP the obvious only other solution is the Fore in tank triple pump setup. Those do not come bucketed, so you will need to install a hydramat in place of the strainers, but starvation under high G's with the Fores are a very real thing (unless you run the hydramats) which is ultimately why I recommend you stick with an OEM style solution that offers bucketed reserve fuel.

When you say “high G’s” I’m assuming you mean road course work. My car launches fairly hard and I have never had a fuel starvation issue with my Fore Triple. For clarification, I always run at least 1/4 tank of fuel (usually more) since fuel also cools your pumps… So high G in a straight line is not an issue (I’m sure it would be on a road course style track but I only do drag and roll racing). Just thought it was important to clarify for those that read this in the future.

My only regret with the Fore system was not doing it sooner. I messed with “band aids” as well and it was all a waste of time and money. Like most of my car endeavors.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

When you say “high G’s” I’m assuming you mean road course work. My car launches fairly hard and I have never had a fuel starvation issue with my Fore Triple. For clarification, I always run at least 1/4 tank of fuel (usually more) since fuel also cools your pumps… So high G in a straight line is not an issue (I’m sure it would be on a road course style track but I only do drag and roll racing). Just thought it was important to clarify for those that read this in the future.

My only regret with the Fore system was not doing it sooner. I messed with “band aids” as well and it was all a waste of time and money. Like most of my car endeavors.

Yeah definitely talking about road course, not so much drag race stuff. No shame in admitting we messed up, that's how we learn how to do bigger and better things on this (and really any) platform after all.

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

My JMS lasted about two years on my setup before it took out my stock pump. Everything worked fine until I would throttle it to the higher RPM range, then it would start falling off spectacularly. No indicators of failure unless you would log it on HPT, pretty dangerous stuff.

I don't recommend it if you are going to be right at the threshold for maximum capabilities of it.

My JMS is 6yrs old and still working fine. If it's setup correctly then it should no doubt last longer than 2 years. I recommend keeping them below <17v. If you are cranking it up to 17.3 or higher to maintain commanded low side pressure than you need a different solution. I have tuned plenty of cars with them pushing 7-760whp on E50-E60.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by GreenZLE

running on 93 octane. What power should I expect? .

Mine had a setup similar to yours at one point, and on 100 oct. it made close to 800, so... 750-ish

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

My JMS is 6yrs old and still working fine. If it's setup correctly then it should no doubt last longer than 2 years. I recommend keeping them below <17v. If you are cranking it up to 17.3 or higher to maintain commanded low side pressure than you need a different solution. I have tuned plenty of cars with them pushing 7-760whp on E50-E60.

My JMS and OEM pump are also still going strong after 4 years. Only reason I pulled them now is because I’m upgrading to the DSX dual in-tank.