[WhiteMale]

I have alignment problems around here, shops that want to put it in the green, give me specs off their screen, and give me grief about tire wear on a ZL1 with SC3's. They don't want to touch a track alignment though FE4 is shown in the system, and I'm frustrated to the point of seeing what I can do, on my own.

For front camber, theoretically, I could on the strut go to the mechanical limit and get appx -2.0, is that right?

Objective is to get camber I want in my driveway and then just have the shop tech set the toe.

Thoughts?

[SpeZ]

I had an alignment recently. ZL1 with DSSV and the 1LE wheels installed.
Full camber mechanically was pretty similiar upfront on both sides at 2°. (strut bearing rotated at "street").

Rear was a little more than 2° possible, at more camber you get issues to align toe. Excentric bolts suck...

Especially upfront if you add camber, toe gets negative by alot.

[cdb95z28]

First thing is to find a new alignment guy. If they want to fight you on tire wear and being in the green is "good enough" then it will be a constant battle. He's lazy and has poor skills.

Since we are talking FE4, all the camber is adjusted at the strut to knuckle. Without grinding the upper slots, you can get -2* up front. You have to knock the bolts out enough to clear the splines. Place a jack under the rotor (don't damage the caliper) and keep the suspension loaded a little bit. The strut can be moved to max camber. Tighten the bolts with the suspension loaded. Going to max camber will make the toe go toward toe out, as Spez said, alot.

You wanting to do the front is fine but the skill of an alignment guy is gonna shine when he aligns the rear. Toe will move when camber is adjusted and vice versa. It is give and take. And IMHO, getting side to side symmetry matters here at the rear, more so on the rear toe. Find a guy who is a perfectionist. I do my own because I don't trust anyone else to do it to my desires. And know that both the toe and camber (lower control arm) eccentric bolts are one time use torque to yield bolts per GM. Some have reused, YMMV. The front strut bolts are not one time use.

For all the fasteners, follow GM's tightening procedures.

Double check your wheel/tire to strut clearance after camber setting.

[TurboC3]

Just got mine aligned. Spec: Front: Camber -2.2 & -2.5 Toe 0.05 & 0.04
Rear: Camber -1.9 & -2.1 Toe 0.04 & 0.04


23 ZL1 stock w/BMR toe rods. Do y'all think my PS4s will wear even on the street?

[Msquared]

An FE4 should be able to get around -2.6 for front camber, and around -1.9 in back while still retaining a teensy bit of rear toe in. You can easily check toe on your own with Longacre toe plates. You don't need an alignment guy for front toe. cdb is correct about the rear toe-vs-camber relationship. You might be able to tackle it by setting the toe adjuster eccentrics to max toe in and then going negative on camber until you get to 1/16" toe. That would be the max camber you can get with reasonable rear toe.

If you try to find another alignment guy, you need to find someone that isn't just not lazy, but who also understands how this stuff actually works. Another tell is if they don't know that they have to knock the front strut bolts partially out to clear the splined section of the bolt's shank. If they don't, they won't be able to get any additional camber.

[WhiteMale]

This is what I got from a guy that did my car back in Dec so I went back today and he was really agreeable at getting the specs I wanted vs. green on the screen. He did make an error and tried to get me to FE2 specs and I said no you should see an FE4. He still didn't come up with an FE4 but did as shown come up with some "Camaro Track Setup". Still not FE4.
However as stood there he was more than happy to put it where I wanted and im pretty happy with it.

[WhiteMale]

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[atx_traveler]

that should be good for street use.