[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So, after having the rear Weld Solana beadlocks on for a week or so, I'm really happy with how they get and keep traction, it's pretty amazing! But, I'm also SHOCKED, with how bad the vibration in the car is after getting reaching 45mph+. It's literally so bad, I can't see actually taking the car down the drag strip at WOT.

The wheels were first balanced with out the tires, but the car vibration started at around 35mph+. I went back to my tire store, they rebalanced with the tires on, and now the vibration doesn't happen until around 45mph+. I think the vibration might be causing false knock in my data logging?

After doing some research, this seems to be a very common problem. But, while doing the research, I also came across many people posting that when they went from the MT ET Street R's to the Hoosier DR2's, the vibration went away.

So, before I go throwing more money in to bottomless pit as I call it now. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this same experience, did you live with it (not sure I can, it literally that bad), did you change your tires for different ones, does anyone run Hoosiers with out much noticeable vibration?

Thanks

[tortilla-flats]

I would first look for a shop that can Road Force balance the wheels/tires.

[bessen13]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So, after having the rear Weld Solana beadlocks on for a week or so, I'm really happy with how they get and keep traction, it's pretty amazing! But, I'm also SHOCKED, with how bad the vibration in the car is after getting reaching 45mph+. It's literally so bad, I can't see actually taking the car down the drag strip at WOT.

The wheels were first balanced with out the tires, but the car vibration started at around 35mph+. I went back to my tire store, they rebalanced with the tires on, and now the vibration doesn't happen until around 45mph+. I think the vibration might be causing false knock in my data logging?

After doing some research, this seems to be a very common problem. But, while doing the research, I also came across many people posting that when they went from the MT ET Street R's to the Hoosier DR2's, the vibration went away.

So, before I go throwing more money in to bottomless pit as I call it now. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this same experience, did you live with it (not sure I can, it literally that bad), did you change your tires for different ones, does anyone run Hoosiers with out much noticeable vibration?

Thanks

I'm from Columbus as well. I'm running ET street R's currently, my vibration is only bad at 85+ when I'm cruising. If I'm wot it feels smooth. I agree with tortilla, a road force balance might be a good first step before you go spendng more money

[dreksnot]

Possible issues, off the top of my mind:
- tire(s) or wheel(s) out-of-round [you'll be able to see that when they're spinning on the machine]
- not properly balanced (most likely). rear tires can be static balanced (I've done this with my at-home bubble balancer and they're were good from stop to 145+). of course, computer-machine dynamic balanced is generally better and they can balance them at interstate speeds (and is a must for fronts since you change the rotating "mass" turning this way and that (stability?)).
- flat spots on tires if sitting for a duration of time. sometimes takes 4-7 miles of driving to smooth things out (depending on asphalt/ambient temperature)
- if you're using spacers and they're slotted versus just round lug bolt holes, could be off center

Those are just a few items I could immediately recall. Let us know the verdict!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Originally Posted by tortilla-flats

I would first look for a shop that can Road Force balance the wheels/tires.

Good suggestion: I called my tire tech, and he confirmed they didn't road force balance the wheels/tires, and offered to do so. But, they can't do it with the tire using the beadlock ring, since they need to be able to also rotate the tire on the wheel. He said they could install the ring for the weight, but mount the MT on the wheel like a regular non-beadlock tire is installed. Road Force balance the wheels/tires, and then mark the location of the tire on the wheel and reinstall using the beadlock ring, and tighten the bolts just enough to hold air. Then, I'd take the wheels/tire and I'd retorque all the bolts myself.

They can't do the beadlock bolt torque due to company policy. But, he also looked at the notes on my account and he said something to the effect that each tire had several spots that had like +90lbs of required force (or something like that). So, road force balancing might make it better, but might not. I asked about swapping the MTs for better quality built MT's, he said that's hit or miss, and probably more miss than hit.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So, after having the rear Weld Solana beadlocks on for a week or so, I'm really happy with how they get and keep traction, it's pretty amazing! But, I'm also SHOCKED, with how bad the vibration in the car is after getting reaching 45mph+. It's literally so bad, I can't see actually taking the car down the drag strip at WOT.

The wheels were first balanced with out the tires, but the car vibration started at around 35mph+. I went back to my tire store, they rebalanced with the tires on, and now the vibration doesn't happen until around 45mph+. I think the vibration might be causing false knock in my data logging?

After doing some research, this seems to be a very common problem. But, while doing the research, I also came across many people posting that when they went from the MT ET Street R's to the Hoosier DR2's, the vibration went away.

So, before I go throwing more money in to bottomless pit as I call it now. I wanted to know if anyone else has had this same experience, did you live with it (not sure I can, it literally that bad), did you change your tires for different ones, does anyone run Hoosiers with out much noticeable vibration?

Thanks

I have MT Et Street R in 325/50R15 on Weld F14 bead locks, and yes, they vibrate like crazy. I recently put Nitto 325/50R15 on those bead locks, and they do not vibrate at all.

[ZL14ever]

I am on my 3rd set of MT Street R on my C7. They always vibrate no matter what since they come out of round from MT. I run Hoosier DR2 on my ZL1 and vibration is 70-80% better. Still not as good as regular street tire, but very tolerable and I've driven 100+ miles to the drag strips with them on

For street driving, MT do seem to last longer than Hoosier DR

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

JSH & ZL14ever THANKS !!

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

Possible issues, off the top of my mind:
- tire(s) or wheel(s) out-of-round [you'll be able to see that when they're spinning on the machine]
- not properly balanced (most likely). rear tires can be static balanced (I've done this with my at-home bubble balancer and they're were good from stop to 145+). of course, computer-machine dynamic balanced is generally better and they can balance them at interstate speeds (and is a must for fronts since you change the rotating "mass" turning this way and that (stability?)).
- flat spots on tires if sitting for a duration of time. sometimes takes 4-7 miles of driving to smooth things out (depending on asphalt/ambient temperature)
- if you're using spacers and they're slotted versus just round lug bolt holes, could be off center

Those are just a few items I could immediately recall. Let us know the verdict!

I also have one of these for the drag pack, as the shops near me were either unable or unwilling to do it:

https://www.harborfreight.com/portab...cer-59140.html

[KingLT1]

MT's balance for shit...said it a hundred times. You could probably google search and find an old post in 5 minutes of me saying it. Lol

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Thanks RobZL1 and KingLT1 - Yes I did search and yes found your posts and many others on this issues with the MT's. I probably should have done that before buying the read 17x10 that takes the 205/45/R17. Hoosier doesn't make a tire that size.

Update: So, bessen13 above on this post, happens to be in Columbus, and he really helped me out this evening. He checked then thoroughly, the balance isn't the biggest issue. Road Force balance he got them down to under 30lbs. he issue is more extreme. these tires are a total mess, literally. One tire wobbles/ moves side to side almost 1/2". The other isn't so bad left to right, but, has a huge out of shape area right in one section. The tire store is going to get new MT's and see if they are better tires than the one I currently have. At this point with the tire size I need, I can't really swap the wheels at this point.

bessen13 - Thanks again you really helped me out and I can't thank you enough!

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Update: So, my tire shop (Discount Tire, those guys are awesome) is going to order new MT ET Street R's and continue ordering them until they get (2) that show good on the balancing machine and have low/good numbers on the Road Force balance. If I remember correctly the one tire that moved/wobbled side to side by over 1/2" each direction was way out of balance and had a Road Force of 50, the other one with the high spot (out of round), was almost balanced, but had a Road Force of 101.

bessen13 - Thanks again you are going above and beyond the call of duty !

[tortilla-flats]

Awesome! Discount Tire is my go to also.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

Update: So, after several attempts trying different sets of Mikey's - The rears are better, but not great, but balanced really well. But, Road Forced seems higher than desired, 40 on one and 57 on the other, not great. Above 45MPH to 50MPH, I start picking up vibration, nothing major, just enough to know it's there. I don't have any more bounce feeling, like I did before, just vibration. The vibration isn't bad until I get to around 65MPH+, then it feels like a very short length, constant rapid vibration, but, better than before.

I know there are issues with the quality of the MT ET Street R tires. I've research and heard from others as well, the Hoosier's seems much better than the MT ETs. But, Hoosier DR2's don't come in the size MT ETs I have (305/45R17). Hoosier does have a 315/35R17 (not sure about clearance/rub and if it fits). Hoosier makes a 28" 17x10 bias ply, but, I'm not sure that's street legal / DOT.

One thing I'm thinking, if the tire isn't exactly centered on the beadlock rim when torqued down. Would that cause the tire, while driving to rotate out of round and cause the kind of issues I'm experiencing? Kind of like what I'm illustrating in the (2) photos. So, I think I'll try to exactly center the tire on the wheel. Basically, let the air out, use something like a Cam Buckle strap to pull the tire together/compress 360°, get it fitting exactly centered on the beadlock rim, install the ring, torque it down, and air up the tire again?

Interesting fact: The vibration/bounce was so bad before the two previous times I had the MT ETs on. I was picking up false knock in my data log. I'm pretty confident it was the bad vibration causing that. I data log every time I take the car out and the only knock I've record, ever, was the two pulls I did when I had the MT ET Street R's on.

Other than all this, I'm clueless.