[Typicalcarguy]

Nothing like the first drive after washing your car and spending an hour on just washing and drying the wheels.

[WhiteMale]

Z26 PowerStop if you want to make a pad change to a cleaner pad but with less stopping power, not for track use but more than capable on the street.

[SSJ455]

It ain't easy bein' cheesy....
Also, what he said above about Powerstop.

[Typicalcarguy]

Thanks guys. Although, I don’t want to change to a less aggressive pad. I actually don’t mind the brake dust on this car. It cleans off really easily and isn’t as “sticky” as the dust produced on German cars like BMW. The Cheeto dust in these pictures is rust that forms on the rotors after a wash. First few times applying the brakes after a wash, and the rotors are cleaned but the rust gets all over the once clean wheels.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by Typicalcarguy

Thanks guys. Although, I don’t want to change to a less aggressive pad. I actually don’t mind the brake dust on this car. It cleans off really easily and isn’t as “sticky” as the dust produced on German cars like BMW. The Cheeto dust in these pictures is rust that forms on the rotors after a wash. First few times applying the brakes after a wash, and the rotors are cleaned but the rust gets all over the once clean wheels.

The SS 1LE wheel color was colloquially dubbed "brake dust gray" for a reason

I for one don't mind, cleaning these wheels is therapeutic. It also makes me remember how fortunate we are to have "problems" like too much brake dust from amazingly performant Ferodo brake pads slotted into beautiful, rock solid 6-piston calipers. I mean, 8 billion people have much worse problems to deal with.

Those PowerStop Z26s probably aren't too bad either, I'll try them one day.

[DeuceCam]

Use a leaf blower to dry the wheels. Cuts down on time.

I ceramic coated my wheels when they were new. I also use a ceramic quick detailer on the wheels after washing, and apply it after I've moved the car and applied brakes (which causes the rust dust). This helps keep particulates from sticking, but isn't a cure-all.

[Val Walkinshaw]

I run Hawk pads. They ARE WAY THE F worse than the stock pads. If you get them wet you basically have just signed up for 8 hours of iron remover, scrubbing and consuming large amounts of alcohol to stay sane.

I've bought many iron removers. Cheap doubles your time.Do not buy Adams. It is a weaker formula and you will hate yourself.

Iron remover by Carpro is expensive but will not find a better product. I mention this because you need the surface to be prepped and Clean. Then the magic happens when you put 2-3 ceramic coats on them.


https://a.co/d/4VgsIhD



literally I don't wash my wheels anymore. I have an elaborate power washer setup for paint correction both as a hobby and a business...sometimes I use an APC but mostly just high pressure water and the dust just disappears.

https://www.carpro-us.com/coatings-s...hoCo3sQAvD_BwE

New at SEMA I saw carpro came out with a new product, once my UK 3.0 rurns out I will be trying this. Seems to be an improved version.

https://www.carpro-us.com/protection...ting-50ml-kit/

I recommend iron remover and a wheel ceramic coating once a year, either in the oping or fall. I strongly recommend you follow the instructions.. They are precise and well done. Follow the temp suggestion, cure time and humidty recommendation or you riisk a loss of adhesion and and less protection.