[Patriot Motorsports USA]

ProjectShocker has begun!! The step by step updates will be shared on our progress to build yet another ZL1-1LE, backed by actual testing on a track, dyno and Dragy results.

Stay Tuned!!

[TurboC3]

David, I will be following your progress. Met you at Road Atlanta last September. You are a wealth of knowledge on these cars.

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by TurboC3

David, I will be following your progress. Met you at Road Atlanta last September. You are a wealth of knowledge on these cars.

Thanks!! I will be at Road Atlanta again on the 15th & 16th with both ZLE cars testing and confirming what works, and what needs more development. Speculation by shops and vendors who sell untested parts/combos cause performance enthusiasts to waste many thousands of dollars on parts... So I guess I am the "ELON Version of DOGE" for the ZLE platform, "Developer Of Great Engineering!" LOL!!

Here is the next video in my series on this car.

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Speculation by shops and vendors who sell untested parts/combos cause performance enthusiasts to waste many thousands of dollars on parts... So I guess I am the "ELON Version of DOGE" for the ZLE platform, "Developer Of Great Engineering!" LOL!!

Damn guess we have been doing it wrong for years!!!

Still waiting on those 1/4 mile time slips and/or draggy results.........

I expect this new build to put down 700 wheel bone stock?

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Damn guess we have been doing it wrong for years!!!

Still waiting on those 1/4 mile time slips and/or draggy results.........

I expect this new build to put down 700 wheel bone stock?

Neither of these cars I am building are being setup for Drag racing... so I guess what I should be asking you, WHAT IS YOUR LAP TIME??? Bring your setup to Road Atlanta or Sebring and lets see if you can run 20-30 minutes flat out and do so before I put a lap on you!!

Apples to Oranges, we have different cars. Your ZL1 is a Caddy ride compared to the DSSV struts & shocks, rubber vs aluminum bushed suspension and subframes to absorb shock to transfer tire grip, with all the aero downforce I have which plays a vital role on the big end when comparing to straight-line acceleration versus lateral grip.

I will say my Dragy result was interesting... With my -2.2 rear camber and Michelin PS4s in 58º temps, traction until hitting 80mph was non-existent. I did three runs without ESC which netted in tons of wheelspin in the 7.50 range, but running Track/Sport1 was the fastest result after six attempts and zero cool-downs between.

[GreenZLE]

Hi David, looking forward to these results! Did you get a base dyno on the new car?

Regardless of the results, I plan on making many of the same mods to my car to better control temps now that it is out of warranty. I bought the GMS oil cooler and will change over to the green Amsoil in the trans first.

Any thoughts on how effective it might be to use fire sleeves on the trans/diff oil cooler lines? Maybe wrap the exhaust too?

[KingLT1]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Neither of these cars I am building are being setup for Drag racing... so I guess what I should be asking you, WHAT IS YOUR LAP TIME??? Bring your setup to Road Atlanta or Sebring and lets see if you can run 20-30 minutes flat out and do so before I put a lap on you!!

Apples to Oranges, we have different cars. Your ZL1 is a Caddy ride compared to the DSSV struts & shocks, rubber vs aluminum bushed suspension and subframes to absorb shock to transfer tire grip, with all the aero downforce I have which plays a vital role on the big end when comparing to straight-line acceleration versus lateral grip.

I will say my Dragy result was interesting... With my -2.2 rear camber and Michelin PS4s in 58º temps, traction until hitting 80mph was non-existent. I did three runs without ESC which netted in tons of wheelspin in the 7.50 range, but running Track/Sport1 was the fastest result after six attempts and zero cool-downs between.

I don't want to start a big pissin match but the point to all of this was that You claim your car makes 790whp with basic mods. We simply asked for a dragy time. 7.5 60-130 @ -80da does not equate to 790whp. Even with wheel spin you should be 6.5 at worst, 5.5 at best with the power you claim.

That being said, 7.5 60-130 is right in the wheelhouse for the mods your car has. So, it's performing exactly as I expected it to. Thanks for sharing that info.

[RobZL1]

This guy, man. Humble, too.

In all seriousness, I have no doubt you have THE setup for road racing in terms of consistent temps and power output. BUT I wish you would just accept that it's actually about 650-675rwhp, not 790. If you approached it as, "I've got the best fix for thise of us who beat the snot out of your car," we'd all praise you, because I think you probably did just that. But you gotta stop coming in here saying none of us or anyone else knows what they are doing to get power out of LT4's, and all you need for 790rwhp is intake and exhaust mods, a pulley and some E... oh, and my special tuning that no one else has figured out in 10 years.

[dfxrte]

claims ppl waste money on packages, posts a 7.5 60-130.

im all for the sharing of knowledge but come on.. & yes you would be the elon of the lt4 if misinformation was the category

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Neither of these cars I am building are being setup for Drag racing... so I guess what I should be asking you, WHAT IS YOUR LAP TIME??? Bring your setup to Road Atlanta or Sebring and lets see if you can run 20-30 minutes flat out and do so before I put a lap on you!!

Apples to Oranges, we have different cars. Your ZL1 is a Caddy ride compared to the DSSV struts & shocks, rubber vs aluminum bushed suspension and subframes to absorb shock to transfer tire grip, with all the aero downforce I have which plays a vital role on the big end when comparing to straight-line acceleration versus lateral grip.

I will say my Dragy result was interesting... With my -2.2 rear camber and Michelin PS4s in 58º temps, traction until hitting 80mph was non-existent. I did three runs without ESC which netted in tons of wheelspin in the 7.50 range, but running Track/Sport1 was the fastest result after six attempts and zero cool-downs between.

The only issue I have with you is claiming 790 rwhp and 800+tq with your mods and saying everyone else is doing it wrong and you know the secrets. You are doing it right for auto cross racing. But you don't make the power your dyno claims you did. I don't make 790rwhp and my most recent draggy time is 6.02 spinning on the hit.

I accept you have a great solution for the events you're building for. Just stop claiming you're making secret power that isn't true. You make consistent power. Not more power through some sort of secret that only you know how to tune for.

Weird call out for wanting me to go out and auto cross against you. I wasn't the one on the forum making bogus claims. Building for 1/4 track vs auto cross are two different things. If I were building for auto cross I would be doing exactly what you're doing by keeping the car cooler for longer. But then I would augment the fuel system to run more ethanol content and run about 1-2 psi more boost.

Anyhow, I do give you kudos for posting your draggy times. I have nothing more to say about this. Best of luck on your events, future builds and be safe out there

[Patriot Motorsports USA]

Originally Posted by Megahurtz

Weird call out for wanting me to go out and auto cross against you. I wasn't the one on the forum making bogus claims. Building for 1/4 track vs auto cross are two different things. If I were building for auto cross I would be doing exactly what you're doing by keeping the car cooler for longer. But then I would augment the fuel system to run more ethanol content and run about 1-2 psi more boost.

Your comment clearly shows you have no clue what you're talking about. Road Atlanta and Sebring are ROAD COURSES... not Autocross. Big difference. If you did build a car for more ethanol content then you'd definitely need a bigger fuel system with an auxiliary tank, because everyone knows running that much E, will run out of fuel in 25-30 minutes.

Weird is watching so many people fall on the sword that our Dyno is optimistic when every other Mustang Dyno compared to a DynoJet is the opposite. Is there no possibility that my solution to thermal balances of the LT4 actually solves a problem every shop would rather just add more fuel like the OEM programming does, which also takes up the fuel most would like to use for adding more ethanol..? SOunds kinda like bad oil pumps that GM claimed was not an issue, all the way up until Katech made a new one to fix the issues, forcing GM to pay for new engines... just like the one I have now. You claim to be a GM calibrator and actually doing such requires thinking outside the box sometime to actually fix a cause, rather than a symptom.

The really weird part... I am sharing this info for free, Gabe Griffin of GMS has wrapped nearly all his business around the exact facts of what I shared with him a year ago to build my car and everyone on this forum is eating it up.

Enjoy the free info... do with it what you will, but in every bit of the 35 years of Engineering some of the fastest proven race cars and Offshore boats in the World, you might just dive into what I share and see for yourself it works.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by ZLElvira

Your comment clearly shows you have no clue what you're talking about. Road Atlanta and Sebring are ROAD COURSES... not Autocross. Big difference. If you did build a car for more ethanol content then you'd definitely need a bigger fuel system with an auxiliary tank, because everyone knows running that much E, will run out of fuel in 25-30 minutes.

Weird is watching so many people fall on the sword that our Dyno is optimistic when every other Mustang Dyno compared to a DynoJet is the opposite. Is there no possibility that my solution to thermal balances of the LT4 actually solves a problem every shop would rather just add more fuel like the OEM programming does, which also takes up the fuel most would like to use for adding more ethanol..? SOunds kinda like bad oil pumps that GM claimed was not an issue, all the way up until Katech made a new one to fix the issues, forcing GM to pay for new engines... just like the one I have now. You claim to be a GM calibrator and actually doing such requires thinking outside the box sometime to actually fix a cause, rather than a symptom.

The really weird part... I am sharing this info for free, Gabe Griffin of GMS has wrapped nearly all his business around the exact facts of what I shared with him a year ago to build my car and everyone on this forum is eating it up.

Enjoy the free info... do with it what you will, but in every bit of the 35 years of Engineering some of the fastest proven race cars and Offshore boats in the World, you might just dive into what I share and see for yourself it works.

Your work and the info you're selflessly sharing here and on youtube are both very much respected here. Your ZL1 looks fantastic and performs great as well, your cooling solution is both innovative and interesting, I'm positive it helps avoid heat soak.

There is no need to die on the hill of physics defying power numbers, though. The car's aerodynamic properties are a given, its weight you didn't change that much from stock, and we know what kind of acceleration numbers to expect with how much power, as people have been posting 8-9s down to 3-4s 60-130 dragy slips, so this entire time range has been richly peppered with data points.

Your car accelerates at 0.5-0.6g at around 60 mph, and that metric would be much higher (closer to 1.0g) if it really had 790 rwhp (~900 crank hp) and 800 lb-ft of torque. This has nothing to do with cooling efficiency, we're talking zero to a few seconds into your run where the positive temp gradient, if any, is irrelevant, this is simply forces and kinematics with mass, torque and acceleration.

Again, nothing wrong with your work or your car, it performs very well, and the point of cooling being and absolutely dominant factor on a road course is well taken. Just let go of this dyno number.

[CamOnlyJabroni]

My car ran low 6’s when it was right around 700whp. Ported blower with bolt on’s. Full weight. 790 should be in the 5’s all day everyday with the Brady bunch in the back.

[Megahurtz]

I don't have 790 rwhp either. Man I wonder if I was a better tuner if I could get to 790rwhp? Must be some secrets I don't know about.