[SammYyYyY]

Hey all!

Recently I have been presented with an opportunity to have my car cammed and tuned for extremely cheap by a reputable and trustworthy shop (I'm not going to get into details, but I'd essentially be paying for the cam kit alone). Naturally, this has tempted me, but I need to consider the long term consequences of something like this.

Does anybody have any experience with long-term reliability of a cammed LT4 with proper supporting mods? I plan to keep this as a forever car, and don't want to deal with replacing valve train components as a maintenance item, or popping an LT4.

For reference, if I were to do this, I would install a BTR Stage 2 or Stage 3 cam, and perform all necessary supporting mods (cam, Johnson lifters, BTR titanium valve springs/retainers, BTR pushrods, etc).

If I do this, is there no chance this car sees stock-ish reliability? I'd like to hear people's honest thoughts before I undertake something this big.

[RobZL1]

Valve springs will need to be replaced at an interval based on the lobe ramp rates. Anywhere from 15k to 40k+ miles depending on the cam profile.

[SammYyYyY]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

Valve springs will need to be replaced at an interval based on the lobe ramp rates. Anywhere from 15k to 40k+ miles depending on the cam profile.

Yeah, I forgot to add this to the original post; this would be the one valve train component I would expect to need regular replacements.

Anything else though? I will admit I drive my car very hard (spirited street driving and a little bit of amateur track use), and would not like to blow a motor if I do this lol.

[RobZL1]

I daily drove my last car about 40k miles with a cam. No issues, just a lot of good times!

[jvandy50]

I’m at 18k miles since cam and no issues, basically did upgrades with the kit as to what GPI recommended in the kit options and we installed ourselves

[KingLT1]

Mild cam will get you stock-ish reliability. I would do a BTR stage 1. It sounds great and drives as close to stock as you will ever get. Stage 2 works but starts to push on the converter at idle. Manual car would be ok. Either way, you don't need a lot of cam to make power.

[SammYyYyY]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Mild cam will get you stock-ish reliability. I would do a BTR stage 1. It sounds great and drives as close to stock as you will ever get. Stage 2 works but starts to push on the converter at idle. Manual car would be ok. Either way, you don't need a lot of cam to make power.

Makes sense! Manual car here so no worries about a converter. I was stuck between a stage 2 and stage 3 if I were going to do this. Between a BTR 2 and 3, do you think the 2 will provide me more spring life and general reliability?

I do drive my car extremely hard on the street (spirited drives every single weekend in the mountains, often times for several hours, and the occasional track day).

[swisstyphoon]

I would also look into a BTR Stage 1.
If you get a chance listen to this podcast, lots of great info.
https://youtu.be/2SIFz7CpxLA?si=bzLHXhodw3CtWS7x
If you want the short version start at around 2h20min

[SammYyYyY]

Originally Posted by swisstyphoon

I would also look into a BTR Stage 1.
If you get a chance listen to this podcast, lots of great info.
https://youtu.be/2SIFz7CpxLA?si=bzLHXhodw3CtWS7x
If you want the short version start at around 2h20min

I'll give this a listen! Thanks for the recommendation.

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Mild cam will get you stock-ish reliability. I would do a BTR stage 1. It sounds great and drives as close to stock as you will ever get. Stage 2 works but starts to push on the converter at idle. Manual car would be ok. Either way, you don't need a lot of cam to make power.

This right here. Keep it stock sized with a fuel lobe from BTR or mild from either them or GPI and you will not run into any issues. These cars make big power as it is so you really don't need to sit there and go with these buck wild with massively sized lift and duration cams to make power. Especially if you keep it on the streets more often than not. It's actually a big misconception that a big cam is needed for these.

Just to give you some perspective OP, I make the power I am in my signature with a stock sized LT1 cam with a 32% fuel lobe from BTR. There is still space to go with more power too by going 30+ XDI injectors and a ported blower. As of current though it's a really good amount of power for the street and the tuning on it was relatively easy, but it will run with the stock tuning if necessary.

[dfxrte]

Originally Posted by ZLRob

This right here. Keep it stock sized with a fuel lobe from BTR or mild from either them or GPI and you will not run into any issues. These cars make big power as it is so you really don't need to sit there and go with these buck wild with massively sized lift and duration cams to make power. Especially if you keep it on the streets more often than not. It's actually a big misconception that a big cam is needed for these.

Just to give you some perspective OP, I make the power I am in my signature with a stock sized LT1 cam with a 32% fuel lobe from BTR. There is still space to go with more power too by going 30+ XDI injectors and a ported blower. As of current though it's a really good amount of power for the street and the tuning on it was relatively easy, but it will run with the stock tuning if necessary.

Any sound clips if possible

[CamOnlyJabroni]

My car makes some beans with a BTR Stage 1. Been 5.1 60-130 full weight on 20’s with a 270 pound driver in 75 degree weather.

[Revalot]

BTR will do you right, ask them most of your questions, 1 thing put a katach billet oil pump on, that should be 1st and for most

[ZLRob]

Originally Posted by dfxrte

Any sound clips if possible

I have some but it's easier to send through FB messenger or something the likes. Private message me and we can figure out how I can get it over to you.

BTW, I use ghost cam on my tune so it sounds different than what OE would otherwise sound like. It's not a stable idle because of that.

Originally Posted by Revalot

BTR will do you right, ask them most of your questions, 1 thing put a katach billet oil pump on, that should be 1st and for most

I also cannot stress enough to throw on an LME billet tensioner on it as well. The OEM one is a ticking time bomb waiting to cause damage if you run a GM oil pump or Katech.