[USMUCL]

Curious . . . with the OEM camber adjustment basically bolts and slotted struts, are you guys seeing it move at all on track, particularly when popping curbs?

I'm about ready to put on the Vorshlag camber plates. Logic says to max the plates out and then adjust the OEM below to get me at the -3.2ish I'm looking for. In that manner, there's more clearance between the wheel and strut . . . which is also a consideration because I'm moving to 18" rims and slicks.

Anyway, to this point, I've been on OEM camber adjustment only, which is maxed or nearly maxed, so moving on track isn't a thing. Once that OEM camber is dialed back though when combined with the plates, I wonder how reliable the setting will be. On aftermarket struts on other platforms, I've seen it be an issue.

[Christian1LE]

I never had issues with the front, but the rear eccentric bolt will move eventually.

I suggest getting eccentric lockout for the rear with SPL arm to adjust camber + an spl toe bar.

[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

I never had issues with the front, but the rear eccentric bolt will move eventually.

I suggest getting eccentric lockout for the rear with SPL arm to adjust camber + an spl toe bar.

Thanks. I have the SPL upper camber bar on order, as I realize I want more camber in the rear and to avoid the movement you mention.

Hadn't worried about the toe bar -- why do you feel that's necessary?

[Christian1LE]

Originally Posted by USMUCL

Thanks. I have the SPL upper camber bar on order, as I realize I want more camber in the rear and to avoid the movement you mention.

Hadn't worried about the toe bar -- why do you feel that's necessary?

Might be ok without it, I did it all at once so not sure if OEM toe bar moves.

[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by Christian1LE

Might be ok without it, I did it all at once so not sure if OEM toe bar moves.

Okay, thanks

[TransamGTA350]

On the front, I suggest maxing out the stock camber adjustment first (as long as your wheels clear the struts), and then going the rest of the way with the camber plates to get to the total camber you are looking for.

The camber adjustment on the stock bolts does not change the suspension geometry, however adjustment at the camber plates do affect it. Best to minimize the amount of needed adjustment at the camber plate.

[cdrptrks]

Originally Posted by USMUCL

Curious . . . with the OEM camber adjustment basically bolts and slotted struts, are you guys seeing it move at all on track, particularly when popping curbs?

No and I've visited a lot of different tracks, even using aggressive curbs like the higher part of the turn 3 apex curb at Road Atlanta where I was slightly lifting the passenger front tire off of the curb! If you zoom in you can see daylight under the tire.

Sliding sideways at high speed through the grass and hitting the back of a raised curb with my front wheel edge did remove all of my negative camber from that corner in addition to destroying the wheel and bending a control arm and damaging the outer tie rod end: https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...4#post10719334

[USMUCL]

Originally Posted by TransamGTA350

On the front, I suggest maxing out the stock camber adjustment first (as long as your wheels clear the struts), and then going the rest of the way with the camber plates to get to the total camber you are looking for.

The camber adjustment on the stock bolts does not change the suspension geometry, however adjustment at the camber plates do affect it. Best to minimize the amount of needed adjustment at the camber plate.

This is the opposite of conventional wisdom on these things, at least on other platforms.