[truckrglenn]

2017 Camaro 2LT RS V6 with the BOSE audio system.

Past few days my radio started to not respond to my touch and the system showed that it was muted.

After drying out the trunk, using compressed air and electrical cleaner, I still can not use my radio. Everything else in the MYLINK works including the touch screen.

I had the radio fuse pulled for an hour and no change. I'll leave the fuse out until tomorrow.

If I replace the BOSE amp with a new or used BOSE amp, do I have to have chevy program it?

Any other suggestions?

[roostere4]

From this post you may not need to get the amp programmed. Might want to drop a message in the thread for more details,

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...79&postcount=4

[truckrglenn]

Thanks I'll check it out.

Where's Ralph Nader when you need him.

[ctrlz]

Lynyrd is master of this topic!
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611576

[Anom1LE]

Get this to help prevent the nightmare from reoccurring..

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612850

[truckrglenn]

Ordered a used Bose Amp today. It came out of a Cadillac, but was the same part number. (812533698)

Decided to pull the inside of the trunk lid apart today to get access to the spoiler nuts. I was able to turn each nut at least an 1/8 inch. Some, a little more.

I'm guessing that it was my fault that they were loose. I can't tell you how many times I've used the spoiler to open and close the trunk lid.

Even though the water in the bottom of the trunk wasn't deep enough to reach the amp or fuse box. My guess is that the starting and stopping was enough to slosh and splash the water into them.

After getting everything as dry as I could, then leaving the trunk lid open most of the day to help with the drying. I used CRC electrical cleaner. I let that sit overnight after closing the lid. I left the fuse out over night too.

Today I took the amplifier apart and used Deoxit D5 on the main board and a toothbrush. I was hoping that I could clean it up enough to work, but it didn't help.

[ctrlz]

Good effort, but that's a lot of corrosion on that board. Hope the caddy amp is plug and play. Worked for Lynyrd.

[truckrglenn]

I was out and about today and decide to take my car through the car wash to see if just tightening the nuts would seal the spoiler to the trunk lid. Well it didn't, all three connecting posts are still leaking.

Is it possible to just buy new gaskets or is there a way to make new gaskets to use? Any help here would be appreciated

I just had a thought, I never did check to see if the Sirius/GPS antenna which is mounted on the trunk lid was secure.

[cheeze9878]

Go to any parts store and get gasket material and make your own. They different kinds of gasket material.

[ctrlz]

Originally Posted by cheeze9878

Go to any parts store and get gasket material and make your own. They different kinds of gasket material.

If this still leaks, you could always put a blob of silicone on the hole before you tighten the bolts. I wouldn't use any strong gasket-maker. Plain old silicone should give you water-tightness without acting like a crazy threadlocker.

[truckrglenn]

I thought about using silicone.

Went out today and the sirius antenna definitely wasn't sitting flush. I used some double sided 3m tape made for the outdoors.

Dummy me. While taking it apart, I thought that I noticed a plastic piece as well as a metal piece where the nut tightened.

Well I searched and searched my trunk, but no plastic piece. That is until I had it back together and was closing the trunk. SMH. It's that how it always is...

[truckrglenn]

The Cadillac amp came in today. Other than having to trim the first connector, it works perfectly.

No programming needed.

I also got a couple of new settings which work. Like Bose Autopilot and Centerpoint

It might be me, but the bass sounds better, harder hitting.

I should have taken a picture of the Caddy's Amp connections. Only the one on the right was a different color and slightly different plug.

I circled the guide that I trimmed. On the Caddy amp the left groove was all the way to the left. On the Camaro Amp, it looks to be about 1/16" over.

Pictured Amp is the BOSE amp from my 2017 Camaro.

[arpad_m]

Originally Posted by truckrglenn

The Cadillac amp came in today. Other than having to trim the first connector, it works perfectly.

No programming needed.

I also got a couple of new settings which work. Like Bose Autopilot and Centerpoint

It might be me, but the bass sounds better, harder hitting.

I should have taken a picture of the Caddy's Amp connections. Only the one on the right was a different color and slightly different plug.

I circled the guide that I trimmed. On the Caddy amp the left groove was all the way to the left. On the Camaro Amp, it looks to be about 1/16" over.

Pictured Amp is the BOSE amp from my 2017 Camaro.

Thanks a lot for the info, Glenn. Crazy how several settings were disabled for the Camaro, talk about petty "product differentiation".

The part number is 84088427, by the way, you typed in the wrong identifier, but no worries because apparently so do some folks on ebay

[truckrglenn]

I thought that the number 812533698 was the main part number.
And the top number, 84088427, was the trim identifier.

The 2020-2024 Camaro SS ZL1 BOSE Speaker Radio Amplifier Amp USED OEM GM 84850437.

Notice that it uses a different identifier or sub number.

The 84850437 has the same connectors as the 2014-2016 Cadillac ATS BOSE AUDIO SOUND AMPLIFIER OEM 23168054 that I bought. But the identifier number is different and the part number is the same.

All I know is that it works, it gave me a couple of extra features and only cost me $60. That's $60 after tax and shipping.

Here's a picture of the Amp that I bought.

I guess it's like Harley and the Letter codes for each bike. Nobody can figure it out.