[Osbornsm]

Hey all,

I am replacing my front calipers and need to know any tips. Or just bleed as normal after install?

Thanks!
- Sean

[Eric10905]

Yeah that’s all. Some other points are the bolts. I replace them every 2 times I remove/install the calipers. And how you get them off - I use an impact but if you get the car up enough you can probably get a good cheater bar on them. And there’s always a debate on loctite or not and which. Since I track I use it and red. But opinions will differ. And if you use new bolts, it has some on it. If I re-use, I clean off the threads good and the receiving threads. Typical stuff and it’s not hard except maybe getting bolts off and back on to spec. I’m slow and the bleeding with a motive bleeder takes the most time for me (dry method).
Whatcha replacing them with? Like for like or upgrade?
Good luck with it!

Edit: replace banjo bolt washers (if you weren’t already planning to). If you wanted new lines, it’s a good time to do it as well. You are already making the mess and bleeding. But be careful on orientation of the lines - there another thread on here where the gent had trouble from wrong orientation.

[Osbornsm]

Originally Posted by Eric10905

Yeah that’s all. Some other points are the bolts. I replace them every 2 times I remove/install the calipers. And how you get them off - I use an impact but if you get the car up enough you can probably get a good cheater bar on them. And there’s always a debate on loctite or not and which. Since I track I use it and red. But opinions will differ. And if you use new bolts, it has some on it. If I re-use, I clean off the threads good and the receiving threads. Typical stuff and it’s not hard except maybe getting bolts off and back on to spec. I’m slow and the bleeding with a motive bleeder takes the most time for me (dry method).
Whatcha replacing them with? Like for like or upgrade?
Good luck with it!

Edit: replace banjo bolt washers (if you weren’t already planning to). If you wanted new lines, it’s a good time to do it as well. You are already making the mess and bleeding. But be careful on orientation of the lines - there another thread on here where the gent had trouble from wrong orientation.

What exactly are banjo bolt washers? 1st I'm hearing of this.

[Eric10905]

Regret I don't have a picture and didn't see a good one from a quick internet search. But check the link pasted below. You can see where there is a copper washer on each side of the brake line. Also that link is the thread about brake line orientation. You shouldn't have to change that if only changing the calipers. But noted it just in case.

The flexible brake line connects to the back side of your caliper to deliver brake fluid. The bolt that connects the line to the caliper is called a banjo bolt. It is drilled out to allow the fluid flow. And as "gaskets" it uses two copper washers, one on each side. You'll see them when you remove the brake line from the caliper.

I've heard of people re-using them. But I think best practice is to replace each time. I think the factory GM ones are a triangle shape (mine were, and a pain to take off with brake fluid all over them). Round ones from your local auto store are just fine to replace as long as they are the right size to fit the bolt.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609473

[cdb95z28]

Caliper bolts are reusable per GM. High temp/high strength red loctite is also spec’d by GM. Permatex #27200. They are not torque to yield bolts, they are torque to angle. There is a difference.

I personally avoid impact tools to break free critical fasteners. That is a lot of shock on them. Breaker bar is best.

Always replace the copper washers. They are cheap, keep extras on hand. Same washer is used on many other GM vehicles.