[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Has anyone tried out this intercooler pump upgrade kit from DMS? Does it work well? It claims 10 GPM and OEM, from what I can find, is 4.8 GPM. Seems like a good upgrade, but was looking for someone with first hand experience with it.

https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...-pump-kit.html

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Has anyone tried out this intercooler pump upgrade kit from DMS? Does it work well? It claims 10 GPM and OEM, from what I can find, is 4.8 GPM. Seems like a good upgrade, but was looking for someone with first hand experience with it.

https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...-pump-kit.html

Mine uses a Pierberg CWA400 but I don't believe it moves 10gpm thru my setup

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Has anyone tried out this intercooler pump upgrade kit from DMS? Does it work well? It claims 10 GPM and OEM, from what I can find, is 4.8 GPM. Seems like a good upgrade, but was looking for someone with first hand experience with it.

https://dedicatedmotorsports.com/pro...-pump-kit.html

Originally Posted by JSH

Mine uses a Pierberg CWA400 but I don't believe it moves 10gpm thru my setup

It’s the CWA150, not the 400. I run the 150. It’s a high head pump and able to overcome a lot of resistance. It’s a nice pump. It’s only a 10 GPM pump if the pressure drop matches up with that point in the pump performance curve…so it may very well be *but* without pressure gauges in the system on the suction and discharge of the pump you don’t actually know that.

I don’t believe a 400 will live a long lifespan in our application. It’s designed to be an engine main coolant pump so high flow and low head. I actually bought one this year and looked it over then changed my mind about running it. It’s 1 1/4” inlet which would be difficult to run in our cars, even 1” would likely lead to pump cavitation. And the flow rate is so crazy I’m not sure the temperature transfer would be that good. Just my 2 cents… but I design hydronic systems for a living lol…

FYI that pump is about $200 if you buy it from Tecomotive…! $489 is crazy.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

It’s the CWA150, not the 400. I run the 150. It’s a high head pump and able to overcome a lot of resistance. It’s a nice pump. It’s only a 10 GPM pump if the pressure drop matches up with that point in the pump performance curve…so it may very well be *but* without pressure gauges in the system on the suction and discharge of the pump you don’t actually know that.

I don’t believe a 400 will live a long lifespan in our application. It’s designed to be an engine main coolant pump so high flow and low head. I actually bought one this year and looked it over then changed my mind about running it. It’s 1 1/4” inlet which would be difficult to run in our cars, even 1” would likely lead to pump cavitation. And the flow rate is so crazy I’m not sure the temperature transfer would be that good. Just my 2 cents… but I design hydronic systems for a living lol…

FYI that pump is about $200 if you buy it from Tecomotive…! $489 is crazy.

So, the 150 does flow more than the stock pump? Would you recommend it as an upgrade?

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

It’s the CWA150,
FYI that pump is about $200 if you buy it from Tecomotive…! $489 is crazy.

I've never been fully pleased with my 400, so I'll order the 150, thx

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

So, the 150 does flow more than the stock pump? Would you recommend it as an upgrade?

It does outflow the stock ZL1 pump. Based on the chart I have I’d guess it’ll flow 50% more in a typical system. But the CWA150 can push it through a brick wall lol…

Originally Posted by JSH

I've never been fully pleased with my 400, so I'll order the 150, thx

Yeah some guys get carried away on the pump but there is a limit to what you can do because of the hose and brick sizes involved. Flow of much over 8-10 GPM is overkill IMO unless you’re making 2000 HP haha. You want turbulent flow so that the water scrubs heat out of the bricks, but too fast means the water is moving too fast for the heat to enter the water properly. All I can say is I can watch my IAT go down during the 1/4 mile run and I have virtually zero water storage (no tank at all).

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

It does outflow the stock ZL1 pump. Based on the chart I have I’d guess it’ll flow 50% more in a typical system. But the CWA150 can push it through a brick wall lol…



Yeah some guys get carried away on the pump but there is a limit to what you can do because of the hose and brick sizes involved. Flow of much over 8-10 GPM is overkill IMO unless you’re making 2000 HP haha. You want turbulent flow so that the water scrubs heat out of the bricks, but too fast means the water is moving too fast for the heat to enter the water properly. All I can say is I can watch my IAT go down during the 1/4 mile run and I have virtually zero water storage (no tank at all).

Awesome! That is exactly what I needed to know. On track (road course) my MAT temps are hitting 170 degrees and the car falls on its face. This is in 100 degree high humidity (Texas). In the cooler months I had no issues.

I have a chiller system on my car and my coolant temperature stays pretty low. The expansion tank was still cool to the touch after a 10 minute session. That makes me think that it is a flow issue. The cool coolant isn't moving through the system fast enough to cool the bricks efficiently.

[SOCAL.M6.ZLE]

Great conversation team, I am working on some comparative testing now between the OEM pump and the CWA150. Although not yet complete... here is where I am at so far.

This is for my future turn-key cooling packages, that will pair perfectly with my oil cooler kits. stay tuned.

Data so far... This is using a zero resistance inline flow meter.
Baseline: OEM Pump + 2 Gallon Expansion Tank + DMS from HX = 3.3GPM
Alternate.1: Same as above, but ADD the passenger side AUX cooler to the system = 2.9GPM
Alternate.2: Same as above, but ADD the crossover tube delete (with manifolds and -10AN fittings) to my surprise = 3.0GPM
Alternate.4: Same as above, but ADD an additional filler reservoir with pressure cap = 3.0GPM
Alternate.3: Same as above but using the CWA150 = 5.0GPM (note I was having issues with pump surge) the pump cycles between 5-11A which would cycle the GPM from 2.5-5.0GPM. I believe this is a pressure issue, and believe the next few tests will work this out.

Next test: Swapping my Synergy 2 Gallon Tank for the DMS (as it has it's own filler cap) Will test this with both the OEM and CWA150 (no other changes).

After that: I will be testing OEM vs. CWA150 with upgrading both AUX coolers. I am having some custom ones made by CSF with female ORB fittings so you can run either the 5/8" push lock or -10AN fittings. These are a little larger, and should help the flow as well.

NOTE: The CWA150 does require a wiring harness. The connectors are different, and this pumps pulls more than 2X the amperage. It is also smaller, and the mount needs to be modified.

My thoughts so far... I do not think the OEM pump is an issue. I am not convinced that 3.0GPM through (5) HX's is bad. What I think is most important is keeping the coolant in the HX's long enough to get adequate temperature drop. I am not sold that faster is better.

Once my system is fully plumbed... I will get some real world temp data between the 2 pumps to see if faster is in fact better. I will be using an AEM coolant temp sensor and gauge to quantify change between the two.

Summary, I think $ is better spent on the upgraded triple heat exchanges and adding more volume to the system... not a bigger pump.

But like many things in life... only time will tell.

Stay tuned for more.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE

Great conversation team, I am working on some comparative testing now between the OEM pump and the CWA150. Although not yet complete... here is where I am at so far.

This is for my future turn-key cooling packages, that will pair perfectly with my oil cooler kits. stay tuned.

Data so far... This is using a zero resistance inline flow meter.
Baseline: OEM Pump + 2 Gallon Expansion Tank + DMS from HX = 3.3GPM
Alternate.1: Same as above, but ADD the passenger side AUX cooler to the system = 2.9GPM
Alternate.2: Same as above, but ADD the crossover tube delete (with manifolds and -10AN fittings) to my surprise = 3.0GPM
Alternate.4: Same as above, but ADD an additional filler reservoir with pressure cap = 3.0GPM
Alternate.3: Same as above but using the CWA150 = 5.0GPM (note I was having issues with pump surge) the pump cycles between 5-11A which would cycle the GPM from 2.5-5.0GPM. I believe this is a pressure issue, and believe the next few tests will work this out.

Next test: Swapping my Synergy 2 Gallon Tank for the DMS (as it has it's own filler cap) Will test this with both the OEM and CWA150 (no other changes).

After that: I will be testing OEM vs. CWA150 with upgrading both AUX coolers. I am having some custom ones made by CSF with female ORB fittings so you can run either the 5/8" push lock or -10AN fittings. These are a little larger, and should help the flow as well.

NOTE: The CWA150 does require a wiring harness. The connectors are different, and this pumps pulls more than 2X the amperage. It is also smaller, and the mount needs to be modified.

My thoughts so far... I do not think the OEM pump is an issue. I am not convinced that 3.0GPM through (5) HX's is bad. What I think is most important is keeping the coolant in the HX's long enough to get adequate temperature drop. I am not sold that faster is better.

Once my system is fully plumbed... I will get some real world temp data between the 2 pumps to see if faster is in fact better. I will be using an AEM coolant temp sensor and gauge to quantify change between the two.

Summary, I think $ is better spent on the upgraded triple heat exchanges and adding more volume to the system... not a bigger pump.

But like many things in life... only time will tell.

Stay tuned for more.

You always seem to be working on a solution to all the problems I run into.

I was literally about to buy an inline flow meter and test out the flow on my car. What do you think about the manifolds? Are they worth putting on?

[Joshinator99]

The key is thinking about how your intercooler system is plumbed. The more resistance in the circuit, the more the CWA150 will shine. If you have just the bricks and a tank with short hose runs, then the CWA150 is not the best choice….there is not enough resistance in that scenario. But if you have a trunk tank with long runs to the front of the car or are pushing through multiple heat exchangers in row, then a high head pump like the CWA150 will make sense.

[Rapid_blue_zl1_22]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

The key is thinking about how your intercooler system is plumbed. The more resistance in the circuit, the more the CWA150 will shine. If you have just the bricks and a tank with short hose runs, then the CWA150 is not the best choice….there is not enough resistance in that scenario. But if you have a trunk tank with long runs to the front of the car or are pushing through multiple heat exchangers in row, then a high head pump like the CWA150 will make sense.

Sounds like it is definitely what I need then. My system runs through the OEM aux HX, the chiller HX, main center HX (or bypasses depending on temp), to DMS fender tank, then to Cordes expansion tank, then finally to the blower.

I know the double tank sounds weird, but It was needed due to the pump cavitating on high G cornering. The coolant would slosh causing the fender tank to get an air pocket and making the pump shut off.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

It does outflow the stock ZL1 pump. Based on the chart I have I’d guess it’ll flow 50% more in a typical system. But the CWA150 can push it through a brick wall lol…

What size lines and fittings are you using?

[NicKey]

Good info guys.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by Rapid_blue_zl1_22

Sounds like it is definitely what I need then. My system runs through the OEM aux HX, the chiller HX, main center HX (or bypasses depending on temp), to DMS fender tank, then to Cordes expansion tank, then finally to the blower.

I know the double tank sounds weird, but It was needed due to the pump cavitating on high G cornering. The coolant would slosh causing the fender tank to get an air pocket and making the pump shut off.

Yes, I’d say the CWA150 is perfect for your application.

I’m in a similar boat as my intercooler circuit is: AFCO aux radiator, main AFCO HX, another AFCO aux radiator (not used for standard cooling system), then through the huge Whipple 3.0 bricks. So pushing 4 heat exchangers in a row definitely should have a high head pump and the CWA150 is working well. This was a test to see if a “no-volume” system could work and so far it is. If I keep turning up the power it may not. I also don’t road race so I could afford to give up the typical aux radiator cooling system use and dedicate it to my intercooler circuit instead.

Originally Posted by JSH

What size lines and fittings are you using?

It’s just a 3/4” hose circuit which I know is marginally undersized (really should be 1” if possible with a split to dual 3/4” to the two Whipple inlets ). Since the hose is undersized, a high head pump is even more helpful since it will help band aid that undersized hose issue.

Originally Posted by NicKey

Good info guys.