[GreyGhost702]

Tried doing a google and forum search on this but didn't really come up with anything too specific to purging the of the lines for the 1LE.

During my rebuild, I did my best to cap the multitudes of transmission lines and contain their fluid, but obviously it's nearly impossible to contain them 100%. Particularly the rear lines until I was able to get them zip tied up to the car out of the way enough for the engine pull.

I am preparing for my first start break-in and first drive, I want to have as much of these loose ends tied up as I can so nothing interferes with getting the car on the road safely after the first oil dump so I can set the rings properly. I don't see a way to fill these transmission lines without driving the car first, and then topping up the transmission. I would wager I will likely have to check it a couple of times before the tranny fluid level is stabilized. Currently, I left the tranny a little more full than I normally would, I figure once the transmission internals drives oil through those lines again, it will suck up some of that extra. What I don't want, is to end up being like half a quart or more low when I go out for the first drive. I don't know what the complete system capacity is for the M6 1LE with all those lines. I'm not taking the car to the redline on its first break-in run, but there will be some heavy throttle runs to 5,000 or so and then let the engine brake on the way back down. Would the transmission be okay if it did end up half a quart low?

Anyone have a build thread that already covers this issue? Didn't see a DIY for it either.

[Baddawg53]

I ran mine on the jack stands for a bit after initial startup. Put it in gear and let the wheels spin for a minute. I figured that was enough to get the fluid through the system. I don't think it would take more than a few minutes to get everything to flow. I thought I'd lose quite a bit when I disconnected the lines, but really not much got lost.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

I ran mine on the jack stands for a bit after initial startup. Put it in gear and let the wheels spin for a minute. I figured that was enough to get the fluid through the system. I don't think it would take more than a few minutes to get everything to flow. I thought I'd lose quite a bit when I disconnected the lines, but really not much got lost.

Yeah I might be over-thinking it. I just thought if there was a procedure to bleed the system it'd be worth looking into.

I'm still on the fence about my break-in procedure, too. I was planning on doing a 20-30min warm up and then dump the oil/filter, fill with the good break-in oil and go drive and set the rings. More research is pushing more toward just fire it up, have someone keep the idle high and random, check for leaks for 5 min or so, and go drive it and set the rings. Instead of doing a trash oil dump just put the good break-in oil in and go essentially. After the rings are set, it'll end up being about an hour on the engine by the time I get back to the garage, then I can dump the oil and the #2 good break-in oil goes in and the next time it fires up will be for the dyno.

[Baddawg53]

I've heard there was a procedure for bleeding the diff clutch on the 1le cars, but I've never heard anything about trans cooler lines themselves.

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

I've heard there was a procedure for bleeding the diff clutch on the 1le cars, but I've never heard anything about trans cooler lines themselves.

Yeah, I watched a few videos and poured over the diagrams for the 1LE cooling routing and it seems it's all tranny fluid and there really is nowhere that you could port in to do something like vacuum bleed on the system. It seems it's up to the tranny to move the fluid. Apparently in the Auto's there's a thermostat that has to open before tranny fluid will move, and it's a 190 T-stat. I don't recall seeing this when I was stripping the tranny down from the engine pull. Frankly, considering how long it takes the M6 to even get near that temp, I wouldn't be surprised if the M6 didn't have that T-stat and the system just open flowed. Though I'm still curious to see a full diagram of the tranny, as I'd be interested in seeing how the M6 produces flow without some type of pump piggy-backing on a gear. I'm well aware of how the 6060 worked for the GT500 back in the day, but this is clearly a different animal. Still no system capacity spec to be found. I wonder if the tranny capacity is actually including all the line lengths and cooler?

[Baddawg53]

I believe the pump is integrated into the front cover of the transmission. Which also happens to be where the lines connect to it. You've definitely researched this far more than I have though

[GreyGhost702]

Originally Posted by Baddawg53

I believe the pump is integrated into the front cover of the transmission. Which also happens to be where the lines connect to it. You've definitely researched this far more than I have though

I think you're right. I can't find a cutaway diagram for the 6060 that shows it, but the TR6070 in the 'Vette's shows one. It's just a tiny thing. I'll bet it's just enough pump to keep fluid flowing through the lines. Makes sense, as the MT doesn't need fluid pressure for anything, it just needs to sling lube on the splines and synchros. The fact that it even gets a cooler is like NASCAR shit. The justification to cool MT fluid would only ever do anything for it under the most extreme racing conditions. More than just a 5-lap race, anyway.