[James Montigny]

I know that quite a few of you are running 800+ HP builds on stock displacement engines.
I know that quite a few others went with 377, 390, 416 and 427 configurations.
I'm curious to hear your stories and decision processes.
I am also interested in knowing how it worked out and if you would do it differently next time.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by James Montigny

I know that quite a few of you are running 800+ HP builds on stock displacement engines.
I know that quite a few others went with 377, 390, 416 and 427 configurations.
I'm curious to hear your stories and decision processes.
I am also interested in knowing how it worked out and if you would do it differently next time.

Well since no one else is chiming in, I guess I will.

The correct answer is… it depends lol. Your forced induction of choice and fueling will play a big role. If you have a P1X, 1.7 or 2300 blower, you’re crazy to specify a 427 engine since you won’t have the airflow to feed more cubic inches. Similar thought process with a PD blower…I’m not a fan of adding a stroked-only bottom end. You don’t need more low end torque as PDs are hard enough to hook up with down low already. And you have to be able to fuel this all…many are reluctant to spend the money it takes to fuel this platform correctly.

That’s just the tip of the iceberg, but hopefully gives you a few things to consider. If/when my 377 dies I’ll probably do a big bore stock stroke engine from LME or Katech and spin it a bit harder.

[James Montigny]

Originally Posted by Joshinator99

If/when my 377 dies I’ll probably do a big bore stock stroke engine from LME or Katech and spin it a bit harder.

My thoughts exactly.
If you're buying an aftermarket and/or sleeved casting anyway, the extra bore would be nice.
Assuming, of course, that you have the air and fuel to feed it.

But honestly, I was just interested in hearing what others did and why.
This was meant as a curiosity thread, not a "what should I do?" thread.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by James Montigny

My thoughts exactly.
If you're buying an aftermarket and/or sleeved casting anyway, the extra bore would be nice.
Assuming, of course, that you have the air and fuel to feed it.

But honestly, I was just interested in hearing what others did and why.
This was meant as a curiosity thread, not a "what should I do?" thread.

[ZL1Atlanta]

We wanted the most efficient setup that would keep boost as low as possible to maximize the efficiency of a Maggie 2650, thus the reason for a 427 with an aggressive cam.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by James Montigny

I know that quite a few of you are running 800+ HP builds on stock displacement engines.
I know that quite a few others went with 377, 390, 416 and 427 configurations.
I'm curious to hear your stories and decision processes.
I am also interested in knowing how it worked out and if you would do it differently next time.

I ordered a 416 initially but changed to 390 when it dawned on me that traction, which is horrendous now, would only be worse with a 416. 99% of my miles are on the road on short cruises.

[Joshinator99]

Originally Posted by ZL1Atlanta

We wanted the most efficient setup that would keep boost as low as possible to maximize the efficiency of a Maggie 2650, thus the reason for a 427 with an aggressive cam.

I think it’s safe to say you’re maximizing every drop of airflow out of that Kong ported Maggie 2650….she’s undoubtedly screaming!

[G2K]

I actually had both. a Texas speed rotating 416 and now a LME 377.

My case was a bit special on why I went "down" to a 377.

Honestly, Cost was #1; as LME is not cheap, you may say difference between LME 377 & 416 isn't much after spending the coin BUT in all honestly as this was second motor and was also upgrading supporting mods that were being done at the same time as LME parts and KATECH oil pumps....
Got me to reason #2 and realistically the main one and it goes along the line of JSH's comments... my setup made 980RTQ on the 416... car was just ridiculous even on the drag pack and I mainly use this for street stuff and at that time was also my daily driver... So I opted for the more conservative 377 which was about 150 less tq on the same setup and I dont know... car just behaves a bit better.

Reason #3... when ordering my engine with LME... wait times (back in 2022) was 6 months for a 416 vs 3 months for a 377....

So yeah... 377 it was....

[JSH]

Originally Posted by G2K

So I opted for the more conservative 377 which was about 150 less tq on the same setup and I dont know... car just behaves a bit better.

Reason #3... when ordering my engine with LME... wait times (back in 2022) was 6 months for a 416 vs 3 months for a 377....

You made the right call. I could quieten mine down with a larger upper pulley if I really wanted to.

I placed my order in November 2023. They quoted 30 days but with Thanksgiving and X-mas, this and that, and I had to send them the oil pan off my 377 because it was out of stock. I ended up getting it around January 20.

If mine were solely a drag car I would have bought the 427 or larger if available. I've done the "fastest car" thing with a 700+ cid hemi, 6.50/210 door car, but honestly, I'm having more fun with this one for much less money.

[dreksnot]

I jumped up to the 427 from the 376 opting for more low end torque while keeping the CR 11:1. Obviously, you'll get more torque with more cubes. More airflow = more power. You just have to have the FI to feed it, and in my case it was with twins. There were a lot of guys running stock cubes and hitting close to the same HP. So, after having stock cubes (stock bore & stock stroke), then running a bored and stroked, I think it would be a safer bet to stay stock cubes or maybe slightly bored and stock stroke.

[JSH]

Originally Posted by dreksnot

I think it would be a safer bet to stay stock cubes or maybe slightly bored and stock stroke.

That's my 390.

[KingLT1]

Just depends on setup, use, and goals. Some out there prefer to make as much power as they can with motor and use the least amount of boost to get to end goal.

Stock cubes imo is a good choice for most because it's cost effective and will still make more power with a 2650 than 95% will ever pursue.

When you are going all out like Jason, and 95% of the cars intended use is on a prepped track, 427 with a healthy cam is the combo.

At the end of the day the fastest race cars in the world still run Big blocks with Positive Displacement superchargers. So there must be some truth to the term "ain't no replacement for displacement".

[JSH]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

So there must be some truth to the term "ain't no replacement for displacement".

That's what I said when I put a 1750 hp n/a Sonny's 742 Chevy Hemi in a pro stock car. Power didn't vary as much with a change in elevation as was the case with most of my smaller motor competitors. But we spent a lot of time changing air bleeds and fuel jets.