[Crushed 1LE]

1. Can anyone recommend a set of aftermarket valve covers that allow the coil relocation without cutting the OEM units?

2. I'm seeing different gain numbers posted primarily from vendors. Using the included calibration and no other mods, can anyone tell me what kind of increases they have been seeing?

I'm going to stay with Magnuson's tune and stock setup for a while, but would like to feel good about spending $10K CAD on a system that will give me marginal performance benefits before doing a cam/pulley/headers/fuel etc.

[laynlo15]

You should look at Speed Engineering. I ran those on my 2650 SS Camaro. Don't need to relocate them, sits right on top of the VCs.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Crushed 1LE

1. Can anyone recommend a set of aftermarket valve covers that allow the coil relocation without cutting the OEM units?

2. I'm seeing different gain numbers posted primarily from vendors. Using the included calibration and no other mods, can anyone tell me what kind of increases they have been seeing?

I'm going to stay with Magnuson's tune and stock setup for a while, but would like to feel good about spending $10K CAD on a system that will give me marginal performance benefits before doing a cam/pulley/headers/fuel etc.

Speed engineering. Take note though that your going to be limited on power with simply just swapping the blower and doing nothing else.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Crushed 1LE

1. Can anyone recommend a set of aftermarket valve covers that allow the coil relocation without cutting the OEM units?

2. I'm seeing different gain numbers posted primarily from vendors. Using the included calibration and no other mods, can anyone tell me what kind of increases they have been seeing?

I'm going to stay with Magnuson's tune and stock setup for a while, but would like to feel good about spending $10K CAD on a system that will give me marginal performance benefits before doing a cam/pulley/headers/fuel etc.

Vengeance Racing sells a few different ones.

[Smokin19]

Try this.

[EDFHOBBIES]

I would say fair numbers would be 670 to 680. On mikes vette when the blower 1st came out He claimed 724 or about all dynos are different of course. Several people here have not got what He claims after seeing his vette video and the advertised numbers they have posted unsatisfied results.

The numbers don't seem all that impressive over modding a stock LT4 blower with pullies but you will feel the difference in the higher rpm band. It keeps pulling and pulling all the way till shifts unlike the lt4 where you can feel a little hesitation coming on near shift point like its giving up or passed its efficiency.

I know I'll never change your mind or anyone's but searching the edelbrock 15923 kit it can be found less for than 7000.00 add kongs porting and you come in at 8500.00 or less you will be spending that on the maggi or more for a 103 snout. Ya the ole edelbrock doesn't fit under the hood spill but I just installed a carbon insert on a friends hood the LPE insert part is 550.00 valve covers are gonna cost at least that. The kong blower will out perform the stock maggi big time.. so for the same money why would you settle for less?

Right now Jrod is putting together my buddies car your about to see a 1200 plus Edelbrock. I stopped at 1000 plus due to stock block but he has a LME bottom end in a L8T truck block. If I'm at 1044 with a 8.3 lower and 3 inch upper he should do very well.. I think he has his 10inch lower on from his old build.

I do a lot work on my own vehicle I can't see covering up the valve covers and having to pull the blower apart and then off to check or install things. just adds a lot unnecessary time and hassle.

Those valve cover are pretty awesome Smokin19 I may add yellow ones to match car color just for looks, under a maggi they hardly be seen that would be ashamed.

[radz28]

Magnuson’s site quotes about a 75-horse increase. It seems that’s a fair number, because the 1st CARB-intent kit went from something like 570 to about 640 on the same dyno, which is near sea level, so there’s not a huge correction. If you look at Magnuson’s Camaro page, they’re quoting around 525-or-something to 600 at the tire. Many shops are claiming these are more accurate SAE-tupe baselines, but that falls within what has been posted pretty consistently about this particular set-up. That’s just going from 100% stock to CARB-intent kit.

Gaining a few dozen more horse will be easy opening-up the inlet side and exhaust (with tuning, of course). That should net you close to 700.

[airtroop01]

Hmmm… you might search for my posts that are pretty recent as I was in a similar boat. I documented the steps and dyno the results so everything is pretty open.

As for your questions:
1. Valve Covers - there’s a lot of great looking billet valve covers on the market. However, I have not seen one that provides the same level of baffling as the factory ones. I was “this” close to slapping on a set that was being offered to me when my valve covers were off. Ultimately, I opted to cut the factory ones. The billet ones surely will make your engine compartment look nice though. Maybe can find folks selling factory ones to cut up and get powder coated.

2. So many factors in getting hp out of these cars. If you go down the built vs bought route, be prepared to find out what those factors are for your car. Mine for example had a failing check valve in a factory hose that caused me some grief for a while. Who knew? Baseline dynos are worth their weight in gold in debugging since you have 2 data points and not just one. Also, these cars love enough timing. But, there’s a limit to the timing that you can safely run on 91… little better on 93… much better if you do e50 blend and even better if you can run full e85. That will make my results different than the next guys results or yours if you don’t control the variables.

3. Staying with Magnuson’s canned tune… Unless you live in a severely emissions restricted state, I would not do that. It’s good enough if you decide to tackle the swap yourself to get you up and running again. But, my advice: Find a good tuner, give it good fuel, open the intake and exhaust and have a good time running it hard. I did all but open the exhaust (see comment about severely emissions restricted area).

4. If you just want 650rwhp, you could do it on a ported factory one. Again, same principles as above with fueling and timing and finding out how your car is going to take it all. However, it won’t come close to the heat recovery that any of these 2650’s can do… Maggy or Edelbrock. For that alone I am really glad to have it instead of the port. Amazing cooling super powers and good resistance to heat fade. I’m going to look into larger intercooler for the road course as I think I’ll push it harder in 100* track days.

5. Jokerz has a port program for the Maggy 2650 now much like the touted Kong port for the Edelbrock. Should be interesting to see how much that sets apart the engineering differences. Do I care? As far as I am concerned, if you’re running either it’s going to be pretty stout. It’s like arguing that red M&M’S are better than green M&M’S (when everyone knows red M&M’S are better! - only joking)

[laynlo15]

The Vengeance are really nice as well as the Katech. Unless pricing has changed you'll probably get better pricing from the Speed Engineering. I think 660 to 670 is pretty close to the rwhp you'll see.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by Crushed 1LE

1. Can anyone recommend a set of aftermarket valve covers that allow the coil relocation without cutting the OEM units?

2. I'm seeing different gain numbers posted primarily from vendors. Using the included calibration and no other mods, can anyone tell me what kind of increases they have been seeing?

I'm going to stay with Magnuson's tune and stock setup for a while, but would like to feel good about spending $10K CAD on a system that will give me marginal performance benefits before doing a cam/pulley/headers/fuel etc.

I've been told that the baffling in the OEM valve covers are to be kept. Cut yours.

[Smokin19]

Originally Posted by MartinLe

I've been told that the baffling in the OEM valve covers are to be kept. Cut yours.

My Weapon X covers have the baffling.

[MartinLe]

Originally Posted by Smokin19

My Weapon X covers have the baffling.

With the height of the valve covers, something has to give.

[MartinLe]

That's a stock blower, right? Sorry, my brain is stuck on the 2650.

[airtroop01]

I’m not sure what the big deal is about cutting the factory valve covers. It’s really not that invasive and not a hack job. I was looking for some pics of how mine turned out but this pic is right after we cut the posts.