[FoundNemo]

Any commentary of these logs? Looks like some timing being pulled due to PE/COT and IATs but otherwise looks healthy. Definitely open to feedback if folks see anything amiss, appreciate it in advance.

Files posted here. About 84 degrees out, 48% humidity, 30.2 baro per the weather. Car said 92 but likely reading high.

https://filebin.net/9uoczc824a84bpz4

Longtubes, cats, tune, 93 octane, stock intake, stock tb, stock pullies. A10

[radz28]

I don't have my laptop to view the file, so please forgive the following (maybe just ignore me, ha. I'm no calibrator...):

Is timing pulled for PE and COT? COT, if I understand correctly, adds fuel to keep the cats' "cool". Is you're AFR/EQ too rich, because it's my understanding these DI engines don't like being run too rich. Is that why you posted what you did? Just for clarity: if you aren't (again - I'm sorry because I can't read your logs from here) monitoring MATs, you should be, as that is what the ECM is using to extrapolate intake temps, and ultimately look at that to start pulling timing back as those temps go up. I imagine with 92* ambient, you'll easily see 150-plus*, so seeing several degrees getting pulled would make sense. I see an easy 150-plus just cruising along at about those temps, but love watchin the MATs fall during a hit at least a couple degrees. You'll see that, too with the 2650 - maybe even a little more from unchoking your exhaust, unlike me.

Are you just tuning the MAF?

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by radz28

I don't have my laptop to view the file, so please forgive the following (maybe just ignore me, ha. I'm no calibrator...):

Is timing pulled for PE and COT? COT, if I understand correctly, adds fuel to keep the cats' "cool". Is you're AFR/EQ too rich, because it's my understanding these DI engines don't like being run too rich. Is that why you posted what you did? Just for clarity: if you aren't (again - I'm sorry because I can't read your logs from here) monitoring MATs, you should be, as that is what the ECM is using to extrapolate intake temps, and ultimately look at that to start pulling timing back as those temps go up. I imagine with 92* ambient, you'll easily see 150-plus*, so seeing several degrees getting pulled would make sense. I see an easy 150-plus just cruising along at about those temps, but love watchin the MATs fall during a hit at least a couple degrees. You'll see that, too with the 2650 - maybe even a little more from unchoking your exhaust, unlike me.

Are you just tuning the MAF?

Manifold temps are indeed in the 150's, I'm not yet acquainted with determining the causes of knock and types recorded etc but the PE/COT advance is showing a bit negative, IAT is a bit negative for advance, etc in the logs. MAF is stock.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by FoundNemo

Manifold temps are indeed in the 150's, I'm not yet acquainted with determining the causes of knock and types recorded etc but the PE/COT advance is showing a bit negative, IAT is a bit negative for advance, etc in the logs. MAF is stock.

AH. Sorry about my confusion.

Some calibrators turn that advance-retard off. Did your calibrator adjust any of the knock sensor sensitivity by cylinder? This is a pretty controversial subject so far as I can tell. Some guys reduce up to about half. I know on another ZL1 like mine where the calibrator did such (and changed many spark modifiers) and the car will still register light knock from time-to-time, so they work. There's never anything audible, but the blower whine is pretty pronounced through the RFBG, ha. That car is seeing about 21* max at WOT (on pump 91 with a can of Racegas concentrate - so about 93-or-so-octane), and under similar temperature conditions you're seeing (less humidity), the car will pull up to a couple degrees of advance, as MATs are right about 150*. There isn't much you're going to be able to do about that, unless you run an Interchiller or something.

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by radz28

AH. Sorry about my confusion.

Some calibrators turn that advance-retard off. Did your calibrator adjust any of the knock sensor sensitivity by cylinder? This is a pretty controversial subject so far as I can tell. Some guys reduce up to about half. I know on another ZL1 like mine where the calibrator did such (and changed many spark modifiers) and the car will still register light knock from time-to-time, so they work. There's never anything audible, but the blower whine is pretty pronounced through the RFBG, ha. That car is seeing about 21* max at WOT (on pump 91 with a can of Racegas concentrate - so about 93-or-so-octane), and under similar temperature conditions you're seeing (less humidity), the car will pull up to a couple degrees of advance, as MATs are right about 150*. There isn't much you're going to be able to do about that, unless you run an Interchiller or something.

Not sure what was tuned or adjusted. Is there a way to pull the custom tune file from the car and dig into it in HPTuners to see what they changed?

[radz28]

Originally Posted by FoundNemo

Not sure what was tuned or adjusted. Is there a way to pull the custom tune file from the car and dig into it in HPTuners to see what they changed?

If you're in the Editor, there is a compare function. When you hit that, it will then prompt you to select the tune you want to compare to.

So - you'd either open your stock OR modified file. Then you'd open the Compare feature and open the opposite file. When it has finished loading, you'll then notice some tabs for some settings are a different color. That will indicate changes. You can then open any of those, and see there are little boxes near the top of the channel (it's too early, so my brain isn't working, so sorry for not using the correct vernacular) window. One has a red star next to it; another has a blue star; the last has a red AND blue. The red star is the actual file you started with; the blue represents the compare file you opened; the red AND blue are just the differences (so if you had 20* of timing in red and 15* in blue, the red/blue window would show 5*). There is another function that might take more time to explain, but I'm probably already being confusing not using the correct verbiage as it is. There are good YT videos that will likely be a lot better. I'd recommend Goatrope Garage. He explains it well, and is typically a good source for at least one way to skin a cat.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...nKKxf4asrLOlEK

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by radz28

If you're in the Editor, there is a compare function. When you hit that, it will then prompt you to select the tune you want to compare to.

So - you'd either open your stock OR modified file. Then you'd open the Compare feature and open the opposite file. When it has finished loading, you'll then notice some tabs for some settings are a different color. That will indicate changes. You can then open any of those, and see there are little boxes near the top of the channel (it's too early, so my brain isn't working, so sorry for not using the correct vernacular) window. One has a red star next to it; another has a blue star; the last has a red AND blue. The red star is the actual file you started with; the blue represents the compare file you opened; the red AND blue are just the differences (so if you had 20* of timing in red and 15* in blue, the red/blue window would show 5*). There is another function that might take more time to explain, but I'm probably already being confusing not using the correct verbiage as it is. There are good YT videos that will likely be a lot better. I'd recommend Goatrope Garage. He explains it well, and is typically a good source for at least one way to skin a cat.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PL...nKKxf4asrLOlEK

I got the file from the car, downloaded, so all good there thank you! The knock retard appears to be coming from the IAT and PE COT area per built in tune parameters and not from knock sensor activity, correct?

[KingLT1]

Any spark correction based on sensor feedback such as MAT, ECT, Humidity...etc will simply reduce total timing. KR means the system thinks the engine is getting actual knock.

[Camaro1973]

I would be a bit concerned with 2-3 degrees of knock on every pull your showing from both of these logs. Especially now that i see in another thread your knock sensors were doubled.


With such small mods, you shouldn't really have this much knock. Also, you need to log more data then you have for knock. Log all pids per cylinder also.

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

I would be a bit concerned with 2-3 degrees of knock on every pull your showing from both of these logs. Especially now that i see in another thread your knock sensors were doubled.


With such small mods, you shouldn't really have this much knock. Also, you need to log more data then you have for knock. Log all pids per cylinder also.

The explanation was that the knock is built in timing retard based on IATs and COT related timing tables/heat, not based on knock sensor activity. Is that not the case per the logs?

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by KingLT1

Any spark correction based on sensor feedback such as MAT, ECT, Humidity...etc will simply reduce total timing. KR means the system thinks the engine is getting actual knock.

Ok then, good to know. Does indeed look like it thinks its knocking and pulling timing accordingly. I do have an exhaust leak behind the cats. Would that be causing the knock expectation? And why does the Knock Retard value show 0 when the Total Knock Retard is 4.9 to 3?

[FoundNemo]

Originally Posted by Camaro1973

I would be a bit concerned with 2-3 degrees of knock on every pull your showing from both of these logs. Especially now that i see in another thread your knock sensors were doubled.


With such small mods, you shouldn't really have this much knock. Also, you need to log more data then you have for knock. Log all pids per cylinder also.

Would you mind sending your log configuration file over?

[FoundNemo]

Also noticed that in my tune, the MAF tables are not stock as compared to two stock files I downloaded from the repository. See screenshots below. Would there by any reason to change MAF data when its a stock airbox, stock TB and stock pulley blower with stock air filter??

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by FoundNemo

Ok then, good to know. Does indeed look like it thinks its knocking and pulling timing accordingly. I do have an exhaust leak behind the cats. Would that be causing the knock expectation? And why does the Knock Retard value show 0 when the Total Knock Retard is 4.9 to 3?

Exhaust leak isn't going to cause KR.