[Boosted2.0]

I ran out of ac refrigerant, my car takes r1234yf. I read somewhere that I can swap it over to 134a. My question is where can I get the yf and if I could swap it and what would happen.

[Boosted2.0]

If they got mixed

[jmorri54]

If your Camaro is low on refrigerant, then you have a leak as these units are a sealed system. You will need to find the source if the leak. I don’t think you can mix refrigerants or substitute refrigerants other than your system was built for a specific type of refrigerant.

[Boosted2.0]

How can I find a leak&& where can I get my refrigerant

[Heat Magnet]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

How can I find a leak&& where can I get my refrigerant

For leaks, look for any drips or wet spots underneath the coolant container (either the lines or somewhere near them). For the actual coolant, try your local auto parts store.

[jmorri54]

I know that dealers have a dye that they put into the ac system. The dye then normally will show where your system is leaking refrigerant. Did you look at the ac condenser coils located in front of the radiator for any coil piercing? From what I understand, Canaria are notorious for rock piercings in the condenser coil. I previously had a 2017 Camaro vert that had this issue. According to the dealer, this is common in Camaro. You may be better off taking to a Chevy dealer on this issue.

[95 imp]

You can't mix refrigerants.
You also can't pull out the refrigerant that the unit was designed for and put in whatever freon you want to.

Well, I guess you can, but don't expect it to work right/very long.

[Jeb114]

You need a professional A/C service look on line for them. This is not a do yourself repair unless you know what you are doing,

[dpevans]

This is not a do it yourself project unless you have the knowledge and specialized tools. They evac the system then pressurize system add dye and check for leaks. Then fix the leak. If you want to change back to 134 the fittings will need changed and no mechanic will do this because it's against the law. The only people I have heard that have done it are those who have done it to their own cars. Not sure why you want to change, the most your car will hold is 1.5lbs at about $50 a pound so it's not that expensive.

[cam765]

Agree with the above suggestions to get the leak identified. No sense in recharging the A/C system just to have it all leak out again over time.

Last I checked, AutoZone and others started to display cans of r1234yf. It is still ridiculously expensive as compared to r134a. I saw a 14 oz. can of A/C Pro r1234yf for $140. The 8 oz. cans produced by Honeywell are probably the cheapest if you need to completely recharge the A/C system. You can get (3) 8 oz. cans online for $100, which should be enough.

Lastly, you need to make use of A/C manifold gauges and a vacuum pump to do the job, so this is best left for a shop to do for most people.

[Tricksta]

Certified in HVAC here..

The systems are sealed, if your freon is out of it, you have a leak.
The lines will need evacuated if not already completely empty. Then the lines will need injected with dye and nitrogen is used to pressurize the system to find the leaks. Some leaks can be found quickly without the dye, but smaller leaks are found easier with the dye and UV glasses.
Find out where the leak is coming from, replace the part(hopefully your compresser didn't tie up or you will be replacing a dryer and a couple other things as well as there likely would be metal in the system.

Once components are replaced, you then put the system on a vacuum pump and get it 27Hg this typically takes anywhere from 30-45 minutes depending on vacuum pump size.

Once you've reached that 27Hg vacuum, you will close the valves and allow it to hold for 30mins or so, if it holds at 27HG you can then put your freon into the system.

I don't know if its the same for every state but here if you don't have your EPA license for disposal of freon then you can not buy it in bulk quantities and would be limited to the small cans you can find at walmart..

In short, you do not have the tools to PROPERLY repair your issue..

You could just pump it full with the cans from the store and you might get by for a short amount of time, but it will definitely fail again, and the amount put into a system needs to be pretty much precise. You would have issues with being under the amount or over it by too much.

[ctrlz]

Good comments above.
You did not say if cooling performance slowly got worse, or it all happened quickly. Your compressor will not kick on once the pressure drops to a certain level, so you may still have refrigerant in the lines.

I would try to find a shop that will do leak detection and give you some kind of credit toward the full repair. This can get expensive pretty quick. Hopefully not your evaporator. That always seems to be what goes on mine, but I keep cars pretty long.

[95 imp]

Originally Posted by Tricksta

Certified in HVAC here..

The systems are sealed, if your freon is out of it, you have a leak.
The lines will need evacuated if not already completely empty. Then the lines will need injected with dye and nitrogen is used to pressurize the system to find the leaks. Some leaks can be found quickly without the dye, but smaller leaks are found easier with the dye and UV glasses.
Find out where the leak is coming from, replace the part(hopefully your compresser didn't tie up or you will be replacing a dryer and a couple other things as well as there likely would be metal in the system.

Once components are replaced, you then put the system on a vacuum pump and get it 27Hg this typically takes anywhere from 30-45 minutes depending on vacuum pump size.

Once you've reached that 27Hg vacuum, you will close the valves and allow it to hold for 30mins or so, if it holds at 27HG you can then put your freon into the system.

I don't know if its the same for every state but here if you don't have your EPA license for disposal of freon then you can not buy it in bulk quantities and would be limited to the small cans you can find at walmart..

In short, you do not have the tools to PROPERLY repair your issue..

You could just pump it full with the cans from the store and you might get by for a short amount of time, but it will definitely fail again, and the amount put into a system needs to be pretty much precise. You would have issues with being under the amount or over it by too much.

All correct except the dye/nitrogen thing.

You're going to need to circulate that dye thru the system and you can't run the comp with a nitrogen charge.

You can use the nitrogen to pump up the pressure (which will make the leak more pronounced) and use an ultrasonic leak detector or soap bubbles (preferably both).

Or, charge the unit, add dye, then run it for a couple of days so it works thru, and out of, the system.

[Chutzpah]

Look for oil or oily residue at all joints to and from the compressor(as refrigerant leaks out, so does compressor oil) Carefully inspect the condenser coil (front of car). If you see signs of oil / residue in any area mentioned, those are your leaks. More than likely you have one leak and it’s located in the most vulnerable spot, the condenser coil. The worst possible scenario is a leak in the evaporator.

As others have stated, you will not be able to fix this yourself. Tools and knowledge of refrigeration are necessary.