[ember1205]

(I've added a link to the bottom of this specific post with more info on what I did and how it worked... click it you want to skip right to that part of the thread)

Ok... So... I'm [hopefully] closing in on being able to take delivery of a new 'vert this coming weekend and need some specific information from those in the know...

Background: DMV is not open to the public and there is no official announcement yet as to when they will be. CT (where I live) does not issue temp tags and neither does MA (where I am buying it). Dealers aren't open to the idea of using a dealer plate for me to drive it home, so trailering it is my only [real] option (transport is expensive because of the sheer distance and worse because I need it done on my schedule and not theirs).

I have seen a number of threads on here that discuss some details about trailering a Gen 6 on a U-Haul trailer. Here's what I believe I have gleaned so far:

- U-Haul has been using two different types of trailer. The red/orange colored ones are older and narrower while the galvanized/gray ones are newer and a bit wider. U-Haul will claim that the 2020 Camaro will fit on either, but using the red/orange one has an extremely high potential of causing rim and tire damage because the wheels rub on both sides.

- The vehicle I'm getting is a 2SS and will either not quite clear the front of the trailer or will barely clear it. Either way, elevating the front wheels with a 2x8 should allow plenty of clearance (and U-Haul shows how to do this with 18" pieces of 2x8 between the holding bar that the webbing is attached to and the front lip of the trailer). I am considering stacking TWO 2x8's in the space with a third one resting just behind the car when loading / unloading to create a step-up / step-down between the doubled boards and the actual floor of the trailer.

- Loading angle of the trailer has the potential to cause the underbody to scrape the trailer as the fronts have moved from ramp to trailer and the rears are starting up the ramps. I am interested in specific suggestions to tackle this, including stacking more 2x8's under the truck's wheels to change the angle of the trailer (front up, back down, ramps more in line with floor of trailer) and/or stacking 2x8's under the ramps to 'flatten' the overall path once the wheels are on the ramps.

- Securing the rear (and possibly front) of the vehicle with the safety chains. I am NOT keen on the idea of scratching up the underbody simply to add the safety chains. So, anyone that has done this and has a reasonable and secure way of doing that won't damage the car, I'm open to ideas.

The worst part of all of it is that the weather on Saturday looks right now like rain. While I really don't want to load, trailer, and unload in crappy weather, the alternative is to leave the car 140 miles away from home at the dealer and that isn't at all appealing.

Anything that anyone can share would be appreciated!!!

Updated Link to "How": https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=36

[Abubaca]

Use the tag off some other vehicle. It's done so often it might as well be legal, although let's be clear....it's not. Call your insurance company and make sure it's insured. Here in NC, if you purchase a car, it's automatically insured through your existing company for 30 days, even if you don't call and add it. Still....call. Make sure. ....after that, worse case is what? -a ticket that costs less than what the trailer would have cost in the first place?


Most states make it so difficult to deal with this stuff. I say they can eat it. I'll pay the ticket if need be. Doug Demuro says he's driven home from a deal with a fake tag more times than he can count, and even been pulled over a few times. Never gotten a ticket I believe.



But the real question is what kind of dealer won't issue a temporary 30 day tag???

[Walkure]

I would just drive it home.
The cops know that DMVs are closed. I can’t imagine one writing up a ticket if you have the sales paperwork with you.

I’d rather risk a ticket than risk damage from trailering it.

[MrChrisLS3]

I trailored a '96 Corvette, same tire width as a stock SS. From KC to Houston. I used boards to get it on and off the trailor. Didn't have any issues.

[ember1205]

Plates and "just driving it" are off the table. Lots of discussion has already been had (in another thread) and neither is happening. I started this thread to be able to stick specifically to the topic of trailering.

I have gathered a lot if really good info about the trailering process and am hopeful to find the last little bits.

[95 imp]

https://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS/JEGS-Axl...56843/10002/-1

[ember1205]

And how would those straps be used? There isn't a solid rear axle, so what would be a good attachment point?

[Chutzpah]

I had my 16 SS convertible picked up by a transport company, for an out of state trade in. The guy backed my car up the ramps in the rain. Scary to say the least. In the end, all worked out, but I wouldn’t risk damaging a new car loading or securing it myself. I didn’t see the other posts on why you wouldn’t stick a plate on it and head home (preferably late at night). Honestly, I’d do it from Mass. to Conn. I think the only helpful thing I can say, which you may have brought up previously is trying to negotiate the dealer paying 50% of the charge for a professional / insured transport company.

Good luck, you’re really going to like the convertible.

[MrChrisLS3]

Originally Posted by ember1205

And how would those straps be used? There isn't a solid rear axle, so what would be a good attachment point?

The U-Haul trailor I used had wheel straps.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by MrChrisLS3

The U-Haul trailor I used had wheel straps.

What about the safety chains that it should have also had? There should have been one at the front and another at the rear (no wheel straps at the rear) - that's specifically what I'm asking about.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by Chutzpah

I had my 16 SS convertible picked up by a transport company, for an out of state trade in. The guy backed my car up the ramps in the rain. Scary to say the least. In the end, all worked out, but I wouldn’t risk damaging a new car loading or securing it myself. I didn’t see the other posts on why you wouldn’t stick a plate on it and head home (preferably late at night). Honestly, I’d do it from Mass. to Conn. I think the only helpful thing I can say, which you may have brought up previously is trying to negotiate the dealer paying 50% of the charge for a professional / insured transport company.

Good luck, you’re really going to like the convertible.

To be clear - I am not against using a plate, but there is no option to do so. DMV is closed, and neither state uses temp tags (MA doesn't even recognize them). I've already gotten input from a CT State Trooper telling me point blank that no plate or moving the plate from my other vehicle is 100% illegal. I could be stopped, ticketed, towed, and impounded. With most state functions shut down, it could be MONTHS before I would ever see my car again.

There's no trade involved, so I only need to move the new car home. I can get it done and have already gotten a quote. Because of the distance, it is prohibitively expensive as it would offset a large portion of the break I'm getting on the car's price. There is no in-state option to get this car as it's hard to find in general - I just happen to be fortunate enough that my national search for a car yielded one that is "this close" to me.

It's getting trailered - I just need help with understanding the specifics of the safety chains so that I am completely prepared when I get to the dealer's lot on Saturday.

[andy3213]

The trailer should have a safety chain near the rear, I wouldn't use it. I've towed a few cars with the U-Haul trailers. I use two ratcheting tie down in the rear and cross them. Find an attachment point on each side of the car body and attach it to the opposite side of the trailer. There'll be D-ring hooks along the inside of the ramps. Once the car is on the trailer, you'll have plenty of room to work under the car to locate an attachment point. This is just to keep the back end of the car from bouncing around. The front wheel straps will actually hold the car in place completely.

[DaveJ89]

I have used a U-Haul auto transport several times and it works well. You will DEFINITELY want the aluminum/galvanized trailer. I built a couple of ramps for the front tires(see pics. below), and used some scrap 2x8 for short ramps leading up to the ramps for the front tires. In order to keep my car from scraping(my car has the add on front lip), I backed my truck up on some Rhino ramps, which dropped the rear of the trailer. The U-Haul trailer uses tire straps on the front and they work very well. I did not use the safety chains on the rear. I used 2 - 4" ratchet straps and went around the differential, and to the opposite corner of the trailer. (left to right and right to left). Only concern pulling on and off the trailer was to avoid scratching the rims.

I made a trip from Indiana to Connecticut(Jannetty Racing) and another to CamaroFest. The trailer did an excellent job, I checked the straps at every fuel stop and they remained tight the entire trip and the trailer towed easily.

Hope the information was helpful. If you need some more details, feel free to yell.

[ember1205]

Originally Posted by DaveJ89

I have used a U-Haul auto transport several times and it works well. You will DEFINITELY want the aluminum/galvanized trailer. I built a couple of ramps for the front tires(see pics. below), and used some scrap 2x8 for short ramps leading up to the ramps for the front tires. In order to keep my car from scraping(my car has the add on front lip), I backed my truck up on some Rhino ramps, which dropped the rear of the trailer. The U-Haul trailer uses tire straps on the front and they work very well. I did not use the safety chains on the rear. I used 2 - 4" ratchet straps and went around the differential, and to the opposite corner of the trailer. (left to right and right to left). Only concern pulling on and off the trailer was to avoid scratching the rims.

I made a trip from Indiana to Connecticut(Jannetty Racing) and another to CamaroFest. The trailer did an excellent job, I checked the straps at every fuel stop and they remained tight the entire trip and the trailer towed easily.

Hope the information was helpful. If you need some more details, feel free to yell.

Lots of good tidbits in here - thank you.

What I'm taking from your post is that the wheel straps are great for the front (confirmation of what I've read elsewhere). I don't see where you indicated whether or not you used any secondary attachment on the front (they provide a safety chain at both ends of the trailer). While the wheel straps should hold well, the secondary chain is a "just in case" addition. I am planning to check the straps every few miles at the beginning and then a couple of more times at various stops.

On the rear - what risk of damage is there to the car by attaching straps around the differential?