[Krowser]

If your ZL1 or ZL1 1LE M6 is shuddering while shifting into 1st and reverse ONLY when the engine is warmed up, you may have a low clutch and brake fluid level.

The good engineers at GM still decided to combine the brake and clutch fluid together just like the 5th gen.

To remedy this issue, simply purchase a bottle of AC Delco DOT 3 Brake and Clutch fluid and CAREFULLY add to the fill line reservoir.

If your brake fluid appears dark brown, then it will need to be replaced due to use and moisture contamination.

Symptoms: In stop and go traffic and dead stop right/left red light turns, the vehicle forward motion requires more throttle than usual to NOT shudder.

Brake and Clutch fluid: AC Delco Dot 3 Brake and Clutch Fluid #10-4110

For the track rats, a DOT 4 of your choice is advisable; however, you may want to change it out once you hit the street.

[Swift016]

Curious... why do you think changing back to Dot 3 for street use would be better ???
Track rat,
Bill 😇

[Krowser]

Originally Posted by Swift016

Curious... why do you think changing back to Dot 3 for street use would be better ???
Track rat,
Bill 😇

According to my google and you tube research , Dot 4 does not handle moisture very well.

Even though the boiling point is higher providing great performance, the ability to maintain its characteristics for longevity are lower in comparison to Dot 3.

[Junkyardspecial]

The reason DOT 3 is factory fill, is that its less hygroscopic than DOT 4, its also typically cheaper. I run DOT 4 and flush every 6-12 months depending on track usage, and bleed constantly. I wont be going back to DOT 3 as it doesn't perform as well in any condition. With proper maintenance there should be no issues.

[Cleancoupe]

I'm not sure why GM decides to have the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir. I haven't looked into it for my 6th gen, but on my 5th gen I purchased a second smaller reservoir for the clutch.

[Mountain]

Originally Posted by Cleancoupe

I'm not sure why GM decides to have the clutch and brakes share the same reservoir. I haven't looked into it for my 6th gen, but on my 5th gen I purchased a second smaller reservoir for the clutch.

Less cost, less complexity to assemble and smaller packaging space.

From my Mustang days, someone did a fairly well done investigation into clutch+brake reservoir combinations. One thing that was found was that, through use of the hydraulic slave cylinder/throw-out bearing, clutch material and slave cylinder seal material would migrate into the the fluid slowly and contaminate it. That among typical moisture absorption and the fact that the fluid doesn't circulate all that well can start to effect proper clutch actuation to a small degree.

There were all kinds of science projects going on to help deal with the crappy performance/track shifting characteristics of the MT-82.

Divorcing the clutch and brake reservoirs lead to more long term consistency in clutch actuation and no cross contamination between clutch and brake. Something worthwhile for the MT-82/Mustang, but maybe not as worthwhile to the Camaro since the Tremec is designed a hell of a lot better for performance/track use and the GM clutch design strategy has a better eye for performance than Ford has had. I would just use a vacuum pump to change the fluid in the clutch circuit from time to time.

[tcs13]

Krowser - I had this issue and a flush seems to have worked for me. Thanks for the notice!

[Alain]

Does anything need to be done to the clutch when doing a brake fluid flush?

[Junkyardspecial]

Originally Posted by Alain

Does anything need to be done to the clutch when doing a brake fluid flush?

No.

[getchapull]

I just got a motive pressure bleeder and plan to bleed the brakes and evacuate the clutch side. Then pump the clutch pedal a billion times to get fresh fluid in there.

Anyone know how much fluid it will take? 1 or 2 quarts for the entire job?

[Alain]

Originally Posted by getchapull

I just got a motive pressure bleeder and plan to bleed the brakes and evacuate the clutch side. Then pump the clutch pedal a billion times to get fresh fluid in there.

Anyone know how much fluid it will take? 1 or 2 quarts for the entire job?

I bought a motive power bleeder last year. I literally just got the attachment for my ZLE in the mail today !!

How are you evacuating the clutch side? I thought it was all in the same reservoir ??

[Vtor_ZL1]

Suck the fluid out of the reservoir, refill w NEW fluid and bleed. Dont let it run dry.


Stock fluid is very brown, even when new. Motul 600 RFB was not much lighter in color.


I miss the ATE super blue. You knew when you reached new fluid, esp if you alternated fluids types.

[getchapull]

Originally Posted by Alain

I bought a motive power bleeder last year. I literally just got the attachment for my ZLE in the mail today !!

How are you evacuating the clutch side? I thought it was all in the same reservoir ??

Yes both are in the same reservoir. I'll use a turkey baster or fire up the air powered power bleeder (venturi effect) to get the old fluid out. Worked pretty good on my F150 when I bled the brakes.

I plan on doing the clutch and brakes at the same time so I'll evacuate them both.

[antyslope]

I’m having this similar problem on my SS when I reach the bite point of my clutch in first or reverse from a dead stop and I give a little bit of gas. Whole car starts shuddering/shaking. Only happens when the car is warm and has been driven for a while. Is this similar to what everyone else was dealing with? I bled my fluid once, it seems like it might’ve gotten better/not as aggressive shuddering as before, or maybe it’s my imagination. I’m going to try doing a full bleed again and see how it is.