[exxit]

Throwing around ideas of an engine build for the LT1. Tired of having nightmares of blowing the block and want to be able to push more power with peace of mind.

I don't know much about chevy other than what i've learned since I joined the forums... First Chevy. Who are the right people to go with as far as bulletproof engine builds go? I have an installer for the motor but don't know who the good machine shops are. Builder recommends Livernois.
Few other questions:
What can the stock m6 even handle once the DS and Half Shafts are taken care of? And the rear end?
Can a LT1 with rods and pistons handle the power safely?

I pretty much want a 1000hp+ capable engine build and push about 800ishwhp to be on the "safe side"... Can the D1SC even make it to that power on e85?

So many questions. I appreciate all input on this.

[FATTEMUNK]

Im planning on doing the same with my 1LE when it comes in. I have done alot of research on this and according to this article http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...94-procharger/ (with a LS7), a D1SC can reach 1000+hp at the crank with what Im assuming is the Stage 2 Intercooler. With E85 you could prob reach 1000+ reliably. The problem is fuel so Im planning on doing a port injection secondary fuel system. Also I think doing a 416 (Im going with TSP) is worth it due to the small price increase over a forged piston setup + h/c. From what I read the ZL1 has better/stronger halfshafts than the regular SS so Im assuming that the engineers at GM had a reason for it so I def wont be launching my car without upgraded ds/hs over 800+whp. Just my $.02 and Im also really curious about this

[exxit]

I'm going to have to work with the tuner as far as AUX fuel goes if DFI fuel setup issues aren't solved. E85 has fouled a few injectors here and there on LT4 fuel builds. Want to do my due diligence to make sure I minimize the chances of blowing up haha. Port is an option but it seems like the tune would be much less complex with a proper DFI setup. The DS and HS are definitely happening but I remember someone mentioning that there is a full rear end setup. I may do that or just convert to a solid rear. Still debating for now. The engine build is a ways away so I'm trying to plan things out in stages.

[LesBaer]

Livernoise is supposed to be good, but I always thought of them as a Ford shop. Checkout Texas Speed and also look at what the C7 guys are doing on the Corvette forum.

This isn't going to be cheap either. If you're going to go all-in I'd think about maxing out the fuel system first then possibly the 9" geforce kit that comes with the driveshaft, half shafts, and rear diff. Blowing the block is pretty tough to do. You might as well ride the current motor out - it's already bought and paid for. I know you're getting the mod itch but there's something to be said for having a fast car with no issues too

If you're really looking to go bananas with it, there's a video of a guy on youtube with a procharged + NO2 gen6 that might give you some ideas.

[62nalide]

Have you considered adding drop in pistons? They will hold more boost and cheaper the having to get a built motor unless that it what your looking for.

[oldman]

Originally Posted by 62nalide

Have you considered adding drop in pistons? They will hold more boost and cheaper the having to get a built motor unless that it what your looking for.

I don't know the CR of the equal weight drop-ins, It would be nice to have a few options say from 9.5 CR to 12.5 CR. I like TSP's forged engines with darton sleeves.

IMO, and I don't race forced induction GM V8, but have many street driven, nay daily drivers, FI engines under my belt at 100 to 120 HP per hole. I always like a shorter stroke engine because I can get a piston in with more skirt to help on the loading of the cylinder wall, as well as rocking, this and the shorter stroke gives me a better rod / stroke ratio so once again less loading, less piston slap. At these power numbers the forged piston is going to be run loose and the blow-by especially when cold is amazing... sometimes scary, piston slap when cold is also kind of scary sounding.

On the piston material at the power numbers that I have run I rapidly go to 2618 aluminum. If you are looking at hot street and 1/4 mile (11 seconds of wot) this material is overkill, but if you road race or want to run silverstate or you live in west Texas and want to open er up for like 2 minutes, you do want something to take the heat and some potential detonation..

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-...oy-comparison/

I've never had a piston failure. all my engine failures are with the valvetrain and that is what I get with 9500 to 10,200 RPM engines on the street... I'll never learn...LOL. Maybe I should go with a stroker.. done that too.

[exxit]

Thanks for all the replies gents.

I want to take the step towards the high HP ranges without worry about exploding... At the same time I want to see what it would cost to build this current block and crank up with internals and whatnot then compare contrast. If the difference between 800hp safely vs 1200+hp safely is a couple grand, I'd like to do that now before I have rugrats running around lol.

The DS/HS/Rear or at least DS and HS + fuel mods are going to happen regardless. No choice there.

I'll definitely check out Texas Speed and see what they have to offer as well.

[oldman]

The M6 mainly because of the 1st gear (means smaller gear on counter shaft, less contact area and less lever arm on shaft) is rated at 550 ft-lbs, the factory rear 8.6diff will fail at this power level. Not sure if the Eaton 8.6 true track will fit, but should. I'd go right to a Dana or Ford 9" center of even a COPO live axle. You are talking about FAR more HP and FAR FAR more torque than the COPO, which makes about 730 HP.

https://youtu.be/6qItrfYVw-E
http://www.driveshaftshop.com/differ...-and-more-2324

Ligenfelter may (assumed come out with their own aluminum carrier), Strange had said they have one on the way also.

[exxit]

Hrm not that bad consider DS and HS alone are 2k in parts. It's funny some of the guys here are running 700+whp through all these stock parts but that's when something can just let go at any second. Better safeish than not safe as the saying goes. (lol no it doesn't but you get the point)

I want to get a 10 second timeslip without blowing up, and then get a 9 second timeslip by just cranking up the boost and playing with the 60ft. :P I may be dreaming. We'll see how far I can go exactly. At this point it looking like I'm building the LT1 inside and out, maybe drop compression a bit with pistons, rods, possibly a crank, intank, low side aux, either lt4 or Lingenfelter high side, LT4 (unless there are better injectors out already), boost cam, maybe long tubes maybe hollow secondaries (primaries are already deleted), full valvetrain, heads, DSS drivetrain upgrades... see where that gets me. I have to get a list of how much all this crap costs to my shop and get a realistic number in front of my face so it sinks in hah

[parish8]

Originally Posted by exxit

Hrm not that bad consider DS and HS alone are 2k in parts. It's funny some of the guys here are running 700+whp through all these stock parts but that's when something can just let go at any second. Better safeish than not safe as the saying goes. (lol no it doesn't but you get the point)

I want to get a 10 second timeslip without blowing up, and then get a 9 second timeslip by just cranking up the boost and playing with the 60ft. :P I may be dreaming. We'll see how far I can go exactly. At this point it looking like I'm building the LT1 inside and out, maybe drop compression a bit with pistons, rods, possibly a crank, intank, low side aux, either lt4 or Lingenfelter high side, LT4 (unless there are better injectors out already), boost cam, maybe long tubes maybe hollow secondaries (primaries are already deleted), full valvetrain, heads, DSS drivetrain upgrades... see where that gets me. I have to get a list of how much all this crap costs to my shop and get a realistic number in front of my face so it sinks in hah

You can do all of your goal if you trade your car in for an a8. I am stock from the engine to the axles and my 1/8 mile time indicates 9's are likely.

[exxit]

Originally Posted by parish8

You can do all of your goal if you trade your car in for an a8. I am stock from the engine to the axles and my 1/8 mile time indicates 9's are likely.

Killer 8th time Parish. I enjoy the M6 for what it is, but yah for straight line on factory parts the A8 is where its at. I should have done more research instead of picking with my ego back then. We live we learn. I knew about the A8 but kept bagging on racing in an automatic. SURPRISE most race cars are automatic now. It's been a minute since I built a fast car. A decade to be exact. American stock autos were trash back then. Too much invested into the car as far as time and cash goes to take a hit and jump into the A8 now.

I guess I should dial down my expectations to reality and be happy with a 10 second time slip on this car and trans setup... Do internals regardless so I can beat on the car without worrying about the motor giving out, and stop my journey in the 750ish hp range.

Start with a better platform next time around... -_- Or plan out a trans build too. Joy!

[exxit]

So after some thought I have figured out what my next stage is...

Boost will likely stay at the current 9.5-10ish psi POSSIBLY may move to a 4.00 pulley instead of my 4.25. No biggie maybe 1 psi more out of that at the peak.

Forged rotating assembly from texas speed most likely (pistons, rods, crank)
Cam, DOD delete, full valvetrain upgrade, studs, headwork
DSS Drive shaft, halfshafts
zl1 intank, DSX aux fuel, either LT4 or Lingenfelter HPFP, LT4 injectors (unless someone can recommend a better injector if one exists yet)

Maybe squeeze out about 730ish+ WHP


Then count the days until the trans or rear goes kaboom... and cross that bridge when that happens -_-


Thanks for chiming in peeps. I appreciate the guidance.

[Swagger]

Good luck bro and congrats... Have you considered the D1X its capable of flowing more hp and I believe the blowers are a bit underrated overall. But the D1X should have the balls to get you there. I will say after researching and talking with my shop, a 416 seems like a must have to hit the 1XXXwhp mark. Looking forward to seeing your results bro

[exxit]

Originally Posted by Swagger

Good luck bro and congrats... Have you considered the D1X its capable of flowing more hp and I believe the blowers are a bit underrated overall. But the D1X should have the balls to get you there. I will say after researching and talking with my shop, a 416 seems like a must have to hit the 1XXXwhp mark. Looking forward to seeing your results bro

I have had day dreams about going with an F1 and sounding like a jet landing everywhere I pull up, but I'm on a 4.25 pulley on this guy so far, It has some room to go up if I was to hop to a 3.7. But the motor is essentially near its threshold. Some have blown up making less power than I am now so I am playing it safe until I get internals.


Sort of bummed because by the time I'm done safely making 750whp, I'll be 20k+ into the build, whereas these coyote dudes make that much for about half using e85 and a VMP supercharger... But as soon as I see or sit in the beast, all that fades away.