[sureshshanmugam79]

Its due for my new clay bar. I have been using the traditional clay bar that is like a soap bar that we roll and use when one side is used.

I found a new type like a piece of sponge that need not be rolled and will loose all contaminants when washed.

Can the experts please advise if those are good to buy?

Also please suggest me a good clay bar to buy.

Thank you very much.

Regards,
Suresh

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

The SM Arnold Speedy Prep Towel (fine grade) is what I have used for the last several years. It's very durable, and if your only doing your own cars, it will last a very long time. Up to 100 uses. On Amazon it goes for around $33.

So many advantages versus standard clay. No pressure needed, just lube and glide. Doesn't have to be kneaded. If you drop it on the ground you just rinse it well with warm water. Cuts time needed to do a vehicle by at least 1/2.

This towel comes with a protective coating on it, so on it's initial use, it should be broke in on glass.

Many other clay alternative options are available, most for less money, but they wont last nearly as long.

Whatever brand you go with, just be sure to get fine grade. You'll never use traditional clay again.

[Glen e]

Nonaskin fine sponge....$15, clay is dead...

[KirkH]

Clay has its places where it excels. A very soft English clay like Bilt Hamber Soft will not mar your paint. The synthetic clays all mar paint and you must polish after.

A heavy clay will pull way more contaminants out of a really contaminated surface better than rubber clay.

That being said, I use synthetic clay pads attached to my polishers on most cars. The disadvantage is that you can't feel the contaminants like you can with clay or a pad.

[Adam's Polishes]

Check out our new Clay Mitt, it is fast and does a great job!

https://youtu.be/D8FbkYmg2qI

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by KirkH

Clay has its places where it excels. A very soft English clay like Bilt Hamber Soft will not mar your paint. The synthetic clays all mar paint and you must polish after.

A heavy clay will pull way more contaminants out of a really contaminated surface better than rubber clay.

That being said, I use synthetic clay pads attached to my polishers on most cars. The disadvantage is that you can't feel the contaminants like you can with clay or a pad.

I did on my very first use with the SM Arnold get some very light marring on my car, it came off easily with Carpro Reflect on 5.5 LC Hydrotech Tangerine pad on a GG 6" R/0 on speed 5.

This marring occurred was because I used pressure, and soap for lube. Using it with Ultima Waterless Wash, I've done many cars with much softer paint then my car has, with no marring whatsoever.

The key with the SM is to use plenty of lube, and no pressure, just glide it across the surface as light as possible. Cars that haven't ever been clayed that have more contamination just take a little longer.

I can't speak for the other types and brands durability, because after over 50 uses, my SM still performs as new, so I haven't had any need to get or try another.

If a car has very soft paint, I would use clay, but on baked on factory paint, a clay alternative (fine grade) is so much easier/faster, and if used with proper pressure/lube, you wont cause marring.

[Speedy1975]

Tried out a Mother's Speed Clay 2.0 for the first time recently. I didn't get any marring or scratches and I used it on two different vehicles as a test. On one I used Griot's Speed Shine as the lubricant like I use with regular clay. On the Camaro, I used my car wash soapy water as the lubricant and felt it worked better than the Speed Shine.

As far as how well the Speed Clay 2.0 works vs real clay bar, it's not as good. On a brand new car it's likely "ok" as the paint should be in pretty good shape. If it's an older car or one that's been neglected, good old original clay is what I'll reach for.

[jlagman]

Originally Posted by Glen e

Nonaskin fine sponge....$15, clay is dead...

I'll give it a try; I found out recently that I hate claying.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by jlagman

I'll give it a try; I found out recently that I hate claying.

Clay should be quick and easy if doing it right. Lots of lube lol

[jlagman]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

Clay should be quick and easy if doing it right. Lots of lube lol

Personally, by the time I get to drying, I'm kind of already sick of doing passes over the whole car. So, the additional pass, plus spraying and kneading (and dropping ) are what I disliked about my first clay bar experience.

I know that's not the greatest attitude to have for a new, amateur detailer, but that's how it is.

[Glen e]

Originally Posted by jlagman

Personally, by the time I get to drying, I'm kind of already sick of doing passes over the whole car. So, the additional pass, plus spraying and kneading (and dropping ) are what I disliked about my first clay bar experience.

I know that's not the greatest attitude to have for a new, amateur detailer, but that's how it is.

I’ve been detailing for 15 years and I still feel that way… I hate claying… The sponge just gets it done. Frankly I think claying is oversold. I think it marrs the surface and I’d rather polish the car. Yes I know it’s different, but I don’t care.

[7WSM]

Originally Posted by jlagman

Personally, by the time I get to drying, I'm kind of already sick of doing passes over the whole car. So, the additional pass, plus spraying and kneading (and dropping ) are what I disliked about my first clay bar experience.

I know that's not the greatest attitude to have for a new, amateur detailer, but that's how it is.

Don't use clay lube. I just use clean soapy water over the car after the initial wash. 5-10 minutes tops to clay the whole car. I also don't clay bars anymore. Been using the Speedy Prep Towels for years now.

[DangerZL1]

Originally Posted by 7WSM

Don't use clay lube. I just use clean soapy water over the car after the initial wash. 5-10 minutes tops to clay the whole car. I also don't clay bars anymore. Been using the Speedy Prep Towels for years now.

Same approach I use. No effort involved. Just 10 minutes to do the whole car once it's clean, unless you press too hard in one spot and leave some clay on the finish. I polished out my DD recently with M205 and some Menzerna 3800 thinking I didn't need to clay first, but I was wrong. Had to clay it before applying Essence to remove the contaminants.

[Speedy1975]

Dropping clay is a big problem for sure. Typically means it goes in the trash.

I've been using Car Pro Ech20 at a 1:15 dilution with distilled water in a hand pump sprayer for the clay bar lubricant. It also works as a detail spray as well as rinseless wash at higher dilution rate. Something you may wanna check out.

I'm gonna look in to the Speedy Prep Towels. Gotta be good with a name like "Speedy" LOL