[BlackbeastSS2]

AFM fix for V8

First and for most, GM should offer the customer a choice from the factory or something else then hurting performance with valves in the exhaust system.

Once you start modding and adding performance parts you notice the shift from 8 to 4 cylinders a lot more. Then shifting in manual in a A8 just does not keep you happy anymore. I did my headers and exhaust, and got rid of NPP, values for both NPP and AFM. Did the cam and heads, DOD delete, lifter change for AFM and guides. Plugged the AFM holes as per instructions. Did it all.

Then with tuner we could not get rid of check engine light with exhaust codes because of the AFM delete. I talked to a few people on the forum regarding this issue. They assured me that I needed the plug in cables that are being sold here on the forum. I agreed, but kept thinking about the original AFM values.

So I looked at them and took off the 3 screws, the plastic part and electronics is all you need and best of all it's free!!!!! You don't need to spent $140 - $180 for AFM delete cables. So I went under car and hooked them back up, zip tied them up. Went for a cruise and pulled over. Cleared my codes with my reader, drove around for an hour and turned off car multiple times. No check engine light.

[cellsafemode]

just to note, this post is in regards to the V8 ... the V6 exhaust valves for AFM are entirely mechanical and have no electronics or sensors associated with them. You can remove the v6 afm valves without any codes being thrown.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by cellsafemode

just to note, this post is in regards to the V8 ... the V6 exhaust valves for AFM are entirely mechanical and have no electronics or sensors associated with them. You can remove the v6 afm valves without any codes being thrown.

V8 edited. Thanks

[DSX Tuning]

You can just turn the codes off in the CCM now too.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by DSX Tuning

You can just turn the codes off in the CCM now too.

What version of HP tuners do u have?

Tuner did turn it off. Kept getting cell.

But, u have to license CCM...... two credits cost $100. Maybe next dyno or just keep them on and save a $100.

With opening CCM is there any other value to buying CCM other then just turn off AFM?

[glenB]

Latest update from HPT will allow you to 'turn off' the CEL.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by glenB

Latest update from HPT will allow you to 'turn off' the CEL.

Just sharing what I have gone thru, it also can be a fix till a tune for someone who just did his exhaust without a tune.

[grampa_ss]

Do these AFM valves operate like the NPP valves...open by default, then closed when told to? In other words, are the AFM valves open in V8 mode and closed in V4 mode?

If yes, then couldn't you do this mod leaving the AFM valves in place and just disassemble the black housing with the plug (as shown above) and zip tie it like shown above? In essence acting just like the NPP fuse pull.

[BlackbeastSS2]

Originally Posted by grampa_ss

Do these AFM valves operate like the NPP valves...open by default, then closed when told to? In other words, are the AFM valves open in V8 mode and closed in V4 mode?

If yes, then couldn't you do this mod leaving the AFM valves in place and just disassemble the black housing with the plug (as shown above) and zip tie it like shown above? In essence acting just like the NPP fuse pull.

Want free flowing exhaust, those values and gates block a lot of flow. Even when it's open in track mode it hurts the flow. By increase back pressure on engine in the long run can't be to good on an engine, if constantly changing back and forth.

[grampa_ss]

Cool, thanks. But what i really want it for is to eliminate the sound when it goes into V4 mode. That's why I want to know if the AFM valve is open by default. Like if the car is off...is that AFM valve open?

[Snyper25]

Originally Posted by BlackbeastSS2

AFM fix for V8

First and for most, GM should offer the customer a choice from the factory or something else then hurting performance with valves in the exhaust system.

Once you start modding and adding performance parts you notice the shift from 8 to 4 cylinders a lot more. Then shifting in manual in a A8 just does not keep you happy anymore. I did my headers and exhaust, and got rid of NPP, values for both NPP and AFM. Did the cam and heads, DOD delete, lifter change for AFM and guides. Plugged the AFM holes as per instructions. Did it all.

Then with tuner we could not get rid of check engine light with exhaust codes because of the AFM delete. I talked to a few people on the forum regarding this issue. They assured me that I needed the plug in cables that are being sold here on the forum. I agreed, but kept thinking about the original AFM values.

So I looked at them and took off the 3 screws, the plastic part and electronics is all you need and best of all it's free!!!!! You don't need to spent $140 - $180 for AFM delete cables. So I went under car and hooked them back up, zip tied them up. Went for a cruise and pulled over. Cleared my codes with my reader, drove around for an hour and turned off car multiple times. No check engine light.

Maybe someone could help me out. I got a custom catback exhaust. The installer removed the OEM exhaust from the cats back and ziptied the AFM wire and the black plastic part with the motorized wheel to the bottom of the car. All my research suggests that i shouldnt be throwing a CEL but its still throwing an AFM CEL. The little motorized wheel still spins when it needs to from testing. Is there another reason im throwing a CEL? Anything i can do to get rid of it? Dont want to tune cause its new and i dont want to void the warranty. Im lost so anything will help.

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Snyper25

Maybe someone could help me out. I got a custom catback exhaust. The installer removed the OEM exhaust from the cats back and ziptied the AFM wire and the black plastic part with the motorized wheel to the bottom of the car. All my research suggests that i shouldnt be throwing a CEL but its still throwing an AFM CEL. The little motorized wheel still spins when it needs to from testing. Is there another reason im throwing a CEL? Anything i can do to get rid of it? Dont want to tune cause its new and i dont want to void the warranty. Im lost so anything will help.

Make sure the "wheel" that the electric motor turns is not restricted in any way. Some guys have tied the black box up and the wheel movement is restricted or limited and that will cause a CEL

[Snyper25]

Originally Posted by lt4camaro

Make sure the "wheel" that the electric motor turns is not restricted in any way. Some guys have tied the black box up and the wheel movement is restricted or limited and that will cause a CEL

The first time I believe this was the issue, and I retied them. Then the cel came back on 2 days later and this time it said their was an issue with move AFM actuators. Thanks for the help. Any other possibilities?

[lt4camaro]

Originally Posted by Snyper25

The first time I believe this was the issue, and I retied them. Then the cel came back on 2 days later and this time it said their was an issue with move AFM actuators. Thanks for the help. Any other possibilities?

I drove mine for the first time and after a few stop and re starts and 60 miles I finally got a CEL on a restart after sitting for about 1/2 hour. Drove 60 more miles, shut off and restart after 10 min, still have a glowing CEL. I looked at the two motor, wheels are free and clear to move , I do not know. I will be climbing under the car tomorrow to see if I have any wireing issues. I wonder if the black box motors need to screwed to metal to ground properly? just a thought.