[hogwild87]

I have this intermittent noise that comes from under the hood that feels like a vibration that transfers from the engine into the cabin and it will only do it in gear at idle, give it any rpm and it goes away. I originally thought it was the pulley making contact with my hood but I've verified that's not it considering it still does it with the hood up. Seems to be more frequent if a/c is running

[JoshuaHyperblue2ss]

600 miles now on my psc1 I did My self install. I am thinking its normal as I have same vibration only during idle. I have a whine and whistle as well sounds like speaker interference lol however I just know it's the charger I have helica gears. I don't think you have anything to worry about. It reminds me of my old kb cobra same vibration at idle



I do not have any rattle that could be a lose bolt or something. Check your ac lines think if I remember right had to bend mine a little bit and zip tie them away but that was in the instructions

[hogwild87]

Yeah mine is a f-1a non helical cut gears so the procharger noise itself doesn't bother me just the vibration noise. I remember relocating the ac line with the bracket supplied on the driver side. I really think the vibration is originating from the belt itself on the bracket tensioner. Idk if the load on the tensioner just needs adjusting or what but I don't want any belt slip either

[Johnny45thSS]

Originally Posted by hogwild87

Yeah mine is a f-1a non helical cut gears so the procharger noise itself doesn't bother me just the vibration noise. I remember relocating the ac line with the bracket supplied on the driver side. I really think the vibration is originating from the belt itself on the bracket tensioner. Idk if the load on the tensioner just needs adjusting or what but I don't want any belt slip either

Sounds very familiar
I found that mines had the same vibration that you are referring 2 the belt was 2 tight and the tensioner was rattling and I also was getting vibrations from the air filter making contact with the bar that is connected to the strut base and the firewall.

[hogwild87]

I don't have the strut tower brace so I don't believe that would be an issue with my situation but I do believe the belt might be too tight and revurbing back into the tensioner

[Johnny45thSS]

Got ya I thought about removing those bars also but I was thinking I lit would affect stability, idk may give it a try without them and see how it handles.

[tireslayer0331]

I have the exact same rattling noise, it doesn't bother me so much as my hearing isn't too great(shot too many guns for a living) but it drives my girlfriend insane haha. I contacted procharger and it is a normal noise, it's the lash between the gears when there is no load on them(what the tech told me). The guy who runs the procharger account here said that you can change your tuning on idle to run less timing and lower your torque which may help. I have yet to go to my tuner and try it out.

The exact response I got from Procharger if this helps
"Basically sometimes they will idle at like 18-19 degrees of timing.
If the tuner can lower the TQ and adjust that, you can get the timing down into the 5-10 degree range, and the "rattle" goes away since the engine runs a bit smoother. "
Hope he doesn't mind me sharing this! I'm going to try it out later next month. Hope this helps!

[hogwild87]

Thanks for the tip I'll run it by my tuner and see what he thinks

[ProCharger]

If you have a straight cut gear unit (none helical option)
Then that rattle is pretty normal, to hear the gears loading and unloading.
Since the original poster has an F1A... well that is a "race" gear box, and is pretty loud.

Originally Posted by tireslayer0331

The exact response I got from Procharger if this helps
"Basically sometimes they will idle at like 18-19 degrees of timing.
If the tuner can lower the TQ and adjust that, you can get the timing down into the 5-10 degree range, and the "rattle" goes away since the engine runs a bit smoother. "

That as well can be done. I have gotten some to really really quiet down, with a little tweaking of TQ tables, timing, and idle rpm.






ALSO: Always triple check to make sure you don't have a clamp coming in contact with something, or tube pressing on something. I have seen at least (3) installs now where the customer had the intercooler resting against the AC condenser. (not good, will end up leaking over time) Just a little adjustment of how they mounted it, solved the issue.

[exxit]

Originally Posted by ProCharger

If you have a straight cut gear unit (none helical option)
Then that rattle is pretty normal, to hear the gears loading and unloading.
Since the original poster has an F1A... well that is a "race" gear box, and is pretty loud.





That as well can be done. I have gotten some to really really quiet down, with a little tweaking of TQ tables, timing, and idle rpm.






ALSO: Always triple check to make sure you don't have a clamp coming in contact with something, or tube pressing on something. I have seen at least (3) installs now where the customer had the intercooler resting against the AC condenser. (not good, will end up leaking over time) Just a little adjustment of how they mounted it, solved the issue.

The stage 2 fits pretty tight in there with the supplied brackets, are we supposed to mod the bracket in some way to create a greater gap between the intercooler and the AC condenser? Do you have pics of proper placement vs a bad install? That worm gear clamp at the bottom of the intercooler is terribly close to a hardline. We moved things a bit but it was still pretty damn close.

[hogwild87]

Originally Posted by exxit

The stage 2 fits pretty tight in there with the supplied brackets, are we supposed to mod the bracket in some way to create a greater gap between the intercooler and the AC condenser? Do you have pics of proper placement vs a bad install? That worm gear clamp at the bottom of the intercooler is terribly close to a hardline. We moved things a bit but it was still pretty damn close.

Yeah I had to space the crash bar with spacers in order to get the intercooler to not make contact. I think the brackets that came in my kit weren't right but we made them work. And I know what you mean about that ac hardline making contact with the lower inlet and that shitty worm gear clamp didn't work I blew my hose off at the track after one pass, replaced it with a t bolt clamp and no more issues

[exxit]

Originally Posted by hogwild87

Yeah I had to space the crash bar with spacers in order to get the intercooler to not make contact. I think the brackets that came in my kit weren't right but we made them work. And I know what you mean about that ac hardline making contact with the lower inlet and that shitty worm gear clamp didn't work I blew my hose off at the track after one pass, replaced it with a t bolt clamp and no more issues

Do you remember what size your spacer was? Did it make putting the bumper on tougher? effin' A, I may go back and go the spacer route if its going to break the condenser eventually. I figured if it was snug and not moving around that it wouldn't be a big deal.




edit: Just checked through the grille and it doesn't look like they're touching, looks like bending that piece back was enough

[hogwild87]

it was maybe 1/4-1/2 inch not a whole lot but i didn't have any bumper fitment issues. i had more an issue with the pipe coming out the procharger into the intercooler hitting the driver side fender liner

[Garrett52]

Originally Posted by hogwild87

it was maybe 1/4-1/2 inch not a whole lot but i didn't have any bumper fitment issues. i had more an issue with the pipe coming out the procharger into the intercooler hitting the driver side fender liner

I'm having this problem too. Did you come up with a solution?