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#1 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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FI Questions
How much boost does the ZL1's LT4 make in stock trim? Given that the LT4 has 10:1 compression while the LT1 is at 11.5:1, how much boost can be run on a supercharged LT1 to maintain the same margin of safety that you would have on the LT4 given its lower compression? I would assume that you would need to run a lower boost level on a FI LT1 to maintain that margin of safety as designed by GM for the LT4.
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#2 | |
Drives: Anything I want Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DfW - Texas
Posts: 5,405
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Quote:
We have 2.6" pulleys for stock cars , 2.38" for our cammed,header,lt4 fuel system cars |
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#3 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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Quote:
I am contemplating some mods within the next 12 months and trying to decide between SC vs heads/cam/headers, so starting my homework now. I do not have much knowledge when it comes to SCers. I like what you have done with the LT4 SC parts, but also wonder would I be better off with a Heartbeat. My car use is just enjoying some added power on the street, while doing some track days down at MSR, no plans to run at ennis. |
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#4 | |
Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
As far as stress on the engine, there is some debate between individuals on what I'm about to say but after running different superchargers on the same engine I would predict that the LT4 supercharger will have less stress on the engine than the Heartbeat because it runs a smaller supercharger with less mass. The smaller supercharger will generally require less power to spin it even though it must be turned faster. The smaller superchargers are generally taking less power to drive them and this has an overall reduced stress on the engine.
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() |
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#5 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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Thanks for your comments jess. Yes, I realize there are other differences beside compression, but crank,rods, and piston materials aside, what I am trying to understand, is what is a safe boost level for a LT1 SC conversion considering the LT1s compression is higher. I had a 372 stroker motor in my C5 with a bullet proof bottom end, so I appreciate that, but it would be difficult to quantify the margin of safety for the other LT4 components vs the LT1. Certainly if I was planning on a lot of racing, I would upgrade the bottom end as well. Nevertheless, I thought considering the CR difference, that might be something that could be quantified to possibly reduce the boost to avoid excessive cylinder pressures.
Last edited by DFW1LE; 12-29-2016 at 01:27 PM. |
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#6 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 17 SS a8 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: omaha
Posts: 1,678
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The current consensus is the lt1 can handle 700rwhp safely if you have the right fuel and tune. For whatever reason some people/shops start breaking pistons above this level.
Durability has more to do with the fuel you are running and the tune. |
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#7 |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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Thats good to hear, after all, the LT1 does have forged crank and rods, but as I understand it, the LT4's crank and rods have a bit more machining which provides additional strength. ADM also noted the importance of fueling.
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#8 |
Drives: Anything I want Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: DfW - Texas
Posts: 5,405
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Correct info
LT4 has Powder Metal Rods just like the LS1,LS2,LS3,LSA,LT1. LS7 AND LS9 have Titanium Rods and Intake valves.
LT4 TECH SPECS Part Number: 19332621 or 19332702 Pistons (P/N right hand 12674094 and left hand 12674093): Forged aluminum with internal ribs; flat-top crown Engine Type: Direct injection spark ignition Gen-V Small-Block V8 Displacement (cu. in.): 376 (6.2L) Bore x Stroke (in.): 4.06 x 3.62 (103.25 x 92 mm) Block (P/N 12619171): Cast aluminum with 6-bolt nodular iron main bearing caps Crankshaft:Forged steel Connecting Rods:Powdered-metal steel Camshaft Type (P/N 12642245): Hydraulic roller Maximum Recommended rpm:6600 Camshaft Lift (in.): 200° intake / 212° exhaust Valve Lift (in): .492 intake / .551 exhaust Camshaft Duration (@.050 in.): 189° intake / 223° exhaust Cylinder Heads (P/N 12646959): A356-T6 rotocast aluminum Valve Size (in.):2.13 intake / 1.59 exhaust Compression Ratio:10.0:1 SOURCE - http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...gines/lt4.html |
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#9 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: North Texas
Posts: 1,422
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Quote:
__________________
Who Dares...Wins |
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#10 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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Quote:
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#11 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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Quote:
Objective: achieve 500-525 HP at the wheels with a broad power curve, and doing that on a fully catted exhaust. Would prefer to run straight 93 vs E85. Want an engine that will provide good reliability (e.g. 75-100K) miles, although it will never see that much mileage. Options: 1) IM/Heads/cam/LT Concerns: do not want cam to cause emission or valve train problems, want good street drivability and broad power band. Can LTs be mated to the stock cats. The GM performance heads and cam might be a good way to go. 2) SC (and LT if it helps) Concerns: do not want to create excessively high cylinder pressures given the 11.5 CR, will back pressure from a fully catted system cause problems, do not want to add too much weight to front of car and upset the cars balance on the race track. Lastly, which of the above is the most cost effective way to go? |
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#12 | |||
Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
Boost is also in many ways not the best way to measure engine performance. In your last post you describe two alternative methods to gain horsepower. The first with intake, cam and head work, is completely designed to open up all of the air restrictions going into the engine so it can naturally get more air in. The second method is adding a supercharger which pumps air through the restricted passages. The end result is, however much air/fuel you can get into the engine is how much power you can make. The end result is if you make say 500 hp running 3 pounds of boost or if you make 500 hp with a cam that allows more airflow, you have roughly the same amount of air/fuel in the engine and roughly the same amount of cylinder pressure. Quote:
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__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() |
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#13 |
FASTER!
Drives: Challenger Hellcat, 2SS Camaro Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Middle Tennessee
Posts: 2,245
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If you're worried about longevity, warranty, additional maintenance, etc then LEAVE THE CAR STOCK. Modified cars are just that, modified. They require more maintenance and more attention to the systems by the owner.
There's a huge thread started by Janetty on FI, etc. Good read. Pray and EFI have been fooling with bolt ons and have relatively cheaply added like 70RWHP/70RWTQ for right at $2,000 with E85 flex, ported IM and TB, and tune. That's about $30 per HP. A supercharger, while still awesome, is about $50 per HP considering an intercooled Magnuson unit adding 160RWHP and assuming you don't save the install fee by doing it yourself. On my Challenger it was a simple decision to do the blower and built motor. Nothing else gave that kind of bang for the buck. This Camaro seems to respond VERY well to bolt ons so the decision is a bit more difficult. |
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#14 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2017 SS 1LE Mosiac Black Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,132
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Quote:
When I say track, just to avoid mis-understandings, I am referring to road courses. Could I perhaps start out with a SC with a different pulley size to make a lower boost (e.g. 6-7) and then change it up down the road if more power is desired? |
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