[irmb]

Looking at supercharging my 2016 2ss.

What's the best package?

Why is Callaway so expensive?

Are any of these going to stay cool enough to take to the track? I'm hearing hearing issues are rampant with the corvettes...

Thanks!

[Ian SS]

You pay for the name mostly with Callaway. You also get a shaker hood, 3yr warranty that can be used at any GM dealer, and you can roll the cost into your financing through GM financial. It's just like getting a Roush package on a Mustang.

Heating issues are rampant with Corvettes but so far the gen 6 are staying cool.

[JDP Sales]

ProCharger and Maggie both have excellent kits out at present. I'm putting the Maggie Heartbeat on my personal car. There is more preference involved in picking the supercharger, than anything. What type of driving you do should dictate which system you ultimately go with.

I'd love to help answer any questions you may have about your options. Give me a shout sometime.

All the best,

Jared Royce
801.545.4215

[Thor142]

I thought SC were not good for a road coarse car. Heavy and hot. Is this misinformation?

[Tr6]

Originally Posted by slo_1ss

You pay for the name mostly with Callaway. You also get a shaker hood, 3yr warranty that can be used at any GM dealer, and you can roll the cost into your financing through GM financial. It's just like getting a Roush package on a Mustang.

Heating issues are rampant with Corvettes but so far the gen 6 are staying cool.

+1!

Originally Posted by JDP Sales

ProCharger and Maggie both have excellent kits out at present. I'm putting the Maggie Heartbeat on my personal car. There is more preference involved in picking the supercharger, than anything. What type of driving you do should dictate which system you ultimately go with.

I'd love to help answer any questions you may have about your options. Give me a shout sometime.

All the best,

Jared Royce
801.545.4215

What Thor said?

Originally Posted by Thor142

I thought SC were not good for a road coarse car. Heavy and hot. Is this misinformation?

[irmb]

Originally Posted by Thor142

I thought SC were not good for a road coarse car. Heavy and hot. Is this misinformation?

I'm hearing this, too. but the ZL1 has one - and that's totally track specific.

Of course the ZL1 has 11 radiators...

[irmb]

Originally Posted by JDP Sales

ProCharger and Maggie both have excellent kits out at present. I'm putting the Maggie Heartbeat on my personal car. There is more preference involved in picking the supercharger, than anything. What type of driving you do should dictate which system you ultimately go with.

I'd love to help answer any questions you may have about your options. Give me a shout sometime.

All the best,

Jared Royce
801.545.4215

I bought the car specifically to take to the track - I live in norcal - so it's been to Laguna Seca and Thunderhill thus far.

it's also my daily driver.

so reliability it a must - and it's gotta be able to handle heat. It was 96 degrees the other day at thunderhill.

[Speedy1975]

I have a Magnuson on my Challenger. It's a 2.3L and has the same rotor pack setup as the Heartbeat, and frankly, is Magnuson's typical config that's been around a while. The stock system at 6psi shouldn't generate much heat at all. I run nearly 15psi through mine on the Challenger, but admittedly it's used for drag racing and romping around on the streets as the Challenger isn't the right tool for a road course. At almost 15psi the Magnuson is maxed out on my forged 9:1 compression 6.0L motor, so keep that in mind if you have dreams of a built 427 in your future.

The following are strictly my opinion:

For drag racing, I prefer a PD supercharger over a centrifugal. PD blowers, like the heartbeat, make all their boost immediately and give you a nice table top torque curve. They're also very fun to drive IMO on the street.

For a road course, this may be a bit more tricky as the boost comes on instantly. Exiting corners you'll need to be ginger with the throttle to prevent tire spin, etc and wait to really get in to it until the car has traction to support the instant torque. If you like to drift it should be a lot of fun though LOL

6psi on the LT1s 11.5:1 compression motor should make some nice power and still run cool.

[E-Ray]

My E-Force also is running at stock temperatures. I purchased the E-Force for $6600.00 (pre-order cost), installed for $900.00, plus I get a $300.00 rebate from Edelbrock. $7200.00 total. And get the Power Train Warranty as well.

[JDP Sales]

I'm not saying that if I were to build a track car that i'd supercharge it. However, You CAN run a Maggie Heartbeat or a ProCharger at a track without overheating. We have a 1000 HP ZL1 that is running the Maggie HB at 15 lbs of boost (on the stock bottom end might I add) and he tracks the car nearly every weekend. We know how to keep them cool and we LOVE us some methanol!

It's all in the set-up and in using top shelf parts. If you go to a shop that makes huge dyno numbers but never actually races or is involved in that scene, I could see how they would tell you it can't be done but we have experienced otherwise.

All the best,

Jared Royce
801.545.4215

[Atomic Ed]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

I have a Magnuson on my Challenger. It's a 2.3L and has the same rotor pack setup as the Heartbeat, and frankly, is Magnuson's typical config that's been around a while. The stock system at 6psi shouldn't generate much heat at all. I run nearly 15psi through mine on the Challenger, but admittedly it's used for drag racing and romping around on the streets as the Challenger isn't the right tool for a road course. At almost 15psi the Magnuson is maxed out on my forged 9:1 compression 6.0L motor, so keep that in mind if you have dreams of a built 427 in your future.

I'm surprised that you can run 15 psi on that rotor pack. I understand that boost pressure is not the same as volumetric capacity, but I suspect that it's on the ragged edge of the compressor map. From your, (and JDP's) viewpoint is there any room left on the 2.3L TVS beyound 15 psi?

Edit: Ok, see where you stated that you're maxed out a 9:1, but impressive that you can get there on a 6.0L with the 2.3L. Respect.

[LesBaer]

No issues whatsoever here. I'm staying at 6psi at least until I upgrade the fuel system. If you add boost, you'll want to upgrade your wheels and tires as well and add headers.

I wouldn't recommend a Pro Charger to anyone buying a new car.

With Callaway, you're getting a name that will help you in resale and their warranty. If you have a problem, based on what I understand, they send their guys out to the dealership where you bring your car. You don't want your run of the mill GM tech messing with your blown Camaro. They can tell you all they want that their blower is unique, but inside it's really no different than the Maggie and neither is the e-force when it comes to creating power. You'll also notice that hardly anyone that adds a blower to a Camaro uses Callaway because it doesn't make sense financially. They do far more Corvettes than Camaros, especially because they need the extra cooling.

They all cool differently though, but it's not a huge factor on the Camaro as it is on the C7. Based on my research (others might disagree), the Magnuson blower offers the best cooling aside from the Callaway. Lingenfelter's car even uses the Maggie. I've talked to shops that sell them all and Magnuson seems to have the best customer support and you'll want that because calibration isn't easy. You also get a free shitty power train warranty from Magnuson that only covers you up to $1.5k assuming you run everything else completely stock on your car, including the tune. I was even told by them directly that headers void the warranty (3rd party company). So, don't even consider that when buying. The warranty is a sales tool made to generate revenue for both companies. Their first goal will be to void you, not help you.

Honestly, the tuning is the most important part and if you're a perfectionist, you won't want the stock tune. Go with a known name that's closest to you in case something ever goes wrong and make sure it's not Hennessey. You'll have a hard time selling the car when the time comes if you do it yourself or have Joe's Speedshop do the work and tuning. I used Jannetty and I know that Picasso himself tuned it. I'm at 5.2k miles now (4k since Maggie) and the cars spins like a top.

[Speedy1975]

Originally Posted by Atomic Ed

I'm surprised that you can run 15 psi on that rotor pack. I understand that boost pressure is not the same as volumetric capacity, but I suspect that it's on the ragged edge of the compressor map. From your, (and JDP's) viewpoint is there any room left on the 2.3L TVS beyound 15 psi?

Edit: Ok, see where you stated that you're maxed out a 9:1, but impressive that you can get there on a 6.0L with the 2.3L. Respect.

I tried to go for more boost and had a machine shop make me a custom pulley, had it carbonite coated for grip, and even had the blower snout machined to fit the smaller pulley. Took it to the track and it belt slipped BIG time, even with a brand new belt. So yep, mine's definitely maxed out. I even put on a Magnuson ported 90mm blower snout and 90mm TB so I'm getting the absolute maximum I can out of it. It runs great and clicks of 10.80s at 128 - 130MPH at the track and I drive it around town goofing off every weekend. It's a great setup and I've had it about 6 years trouble free. I do have a custom fuel system with twin 255LPH pumps to go with it. If I were buying a supercharger for the Challenger today, I'd get the new 2.9L Whipple though for a bit more head room on my motor.

Originally Posted by LesBaer

No issues whatsoever here. I'm staying at 6psi at least until I upgrade the fuel system. If you add boost, you'll want to upgrade your wheels and tires as well and add headers.

I wouldn't recommend a Pro Charger to anyone buying a new car.

With Callaway, you're getting a name that will help you in resale and their warranty. If you have a problem, based on what I understand, they send their guys out to the dealership where you bring your car. You don't want your run of the mill GM tech messing with your blown Camaro. They can tell you all they want that their blower is unique, but inside it's really no different than the Maggie and neither is the e-force when it comes to creating power. You'll also notice that hardly anyone that adds a blower to a Camaro uses Callaway because it doesn't make sense financially. They do far more Corvettes than Camaros, especially because they need the extra cooling.

They all cool differently though, but it's not a huge factor on the Camaro as it is on the C7. Based on my research (others might disagree), the Magnuson blower offers the best cooling aside from the Callaway. Lingenfelter's car even uses the Maggie. I've talked to shops that sell them all and Magnuson seems to have the best customer support and you'll want that because calibration isn't easy. You also get a free shitty power train warranty from Magnuson that only covers you up to $1.5k assuming you run everything else completely stock on your car, including the tune. I was even told by them directly that headers void the warranty (3rd party company). So, don't even consider that when buying. The warranty is a sales tool made to generate revenue for both companies. Their first goal will be to void you, not help you.

Honestly, the tuning is the most important part and if you're a perfectionist, you won't want the stock tune. Go with a known name that's closest to you in case something ever goes wrong and make sure it's not Hennessey. You'll have a hard time selling the car when the time comes if you do it yourself or have Joe's Speedshop do the work and tuning. I used Jannetty and I know that Picasso himself tuned it. I'm at 5.2k miles now (4k since Maggie) and the cars spins like a top.

I would disagree on needing headers. The Camaro comes with shorty Tri-Y headers from the factory. Similar setup on the Challenger as well and folks easily push 800RWHP through them no problem so I'd spend that money elsewhere, like axles, drive shaft, or sticky tires.

I see A LOT of comments on this forum about warranty. Honestly, if you're at all worried about a warranty, don't modify the car. All bets are off once you start doing that. Either have a deep wallet to have someone else deal with the problems for you, or learn to work on your own junk. I've found very few shops that can do something to my level of OCDness, so I do 99% of my own work on my rides and I know it's done right. I document the hell out of it as well, so IF I ever decide to sell the buyer knows they're getting a solid well built example with no shortcuts taken. Good documentation is what makes the difference, but honestly it's best to put the car back as close to stock and sell the parts separate. The last time I did that I got more for the car + parts than I was originally asking for the modified car by a lot.

I'm surprised to read that the Camaro is difficult to tune. This is my first Chevy and I always thought you could practically tune it yourself with HPT. Is that not really the case? My buddy tuned his cammed up 2008 Z06 on his own and it ran great. He said it was a piece of cake.

The Challenger is a real PITA to tune and there are only 3 or 4 guys in the whole dang country that I'd trust. So many blown up cars you wouldn't believe it, even built motor examples! One vendor on this very forum has brought many a HEMI to an early death and I wouldn't let him tune my lawn mower. I was hoping I'd have an easier time with this Camaro. Is it a new PCM and HPT hasn't figured out all the tables or ?

[LesBaer]

Originally Posted by Speedy1975

I tried to go for more boost and had a machine shop make me a custom pulley, had it carbonite coated for grip, and even had the blower snout machined to fit the smaller pulley. Took it to the track and it belt slipped BIG time, even with a brand new belt. So yep, mine's definitely maxed out. I even put on a Magnuson ported 90mm blower snout and 90mm TB so I'm getting the absolute maximum I can out of it. It runs great and clicks of 10.80s at 128 - 130MPH at the track and I drive it around town goofing off every weekend. It's a great setup and I've had it about 6 years trouble free. I do have a custom fuel system with twin 255LPH pumps to go with it. If I were buying a supercharger for the Challenger today, I'd get the new 2.9L Whipple though for a bit more head room on my motor.





I would disagree on needing headers. The Camaro comes with shorty Tri-Y headers from the factory. Similar setup on the Challenger as well and folks easily push 800RWHP through them no problem so I'd spend that money elsewhere, like axles, drive shaft, or sticky tires.

I see A LOT of comments on this forum about warranty. Honestly, if you're at all worried about a warranty, don't modify the car. All bets are off once you start doing that. Either have a deep wallet to have someone else deal with the problems for you, or learn to work on your own junk. I've found very few shops that can do something to my level of OCDness, so I do 99% of my own work on my rides and I know it's done right. I document the hell out of it as well, so IF I ever decide to sell the buyer knows they're getting a solid well built example with no shortcuts taken. Good documentation is what makes the difference, but honestly it's best to put the car back as close to stock and sell the parts separate. The last time I did that I got more for the car + parts than I was originally asking for the modified car by a lot.

I'm surprised to read that the Camaro is difficult to tune. This is my first Chevy and I always thought you could practically tune it yourself with HPT. Is that not really the case? My buddy tuned his cammed up 2008 Z06 on his own and it ran great. He said it was a piece of cake.

The Challenger is a real PITA to tune and there are only 3 or 4 guys in the whole dang country that I'd trust. So many blown up cars you wouldn't believe it, even built motor examples! One vendor on this very forum has brought many a HEMI to an early death and I wouldn't let him tune my lawn mower. I was hoping I'd have an easier time with this Camaro. Is it a new PCM and HPT hasn't figured out all the tables or ?

I totally agree w/you on the warranty. Too many people are tied to it like a ball and chain and it always comes up, so that's the only reason I mentioned it.

I kept the NPP functionality and went with headers so I could have high flow cats, better engine sound and even got some power out of it at the stock 6psi. I wouldn't want all that heat flowing into the stock cats. You're risking a lot if you end up with a blockage and you'll get more out of the car down the road once you start pumping more boost through it. Regardless of how good the tri-y's are for a stock system, they're really only equivalent to short tubes. With a good set of LT headers the car will sound as ferocious as it performs.

You're not going to get much out replacing a driveshaft, but I see the benefit of rotating mass reduction. Money is better spent on changing to a smaller pulley. You can replace an axle if you plan on drag racing or want to pound on your car doing crazy donuts, burnouts, etc. I wouldn't be doing either, so those aren't at the top of my list. It's one of those things that you don't need to fix unless it's broken - unless you're planning to do everything in big push and jump to 800rwhp for example.

Personally, I'm doing this in stages and driving the car at stock boost for a while. I've got wider Pilot Super Sports sitting at home and waiting for my wheels to be delivered. I'd rather invest in the fuel system personally. You can't go much farther than the stock boost levels on these superchargers and have a safe level of fuel delivery with this engine (assuming you factor in a buffer with torque output). I'd much rather have a broken axle than a blown engine.

HPT is the only software that works right now as far as i know. Headers will also complicate things a little since a sensor needs to be moved. Calibration can be PIA for someone who doesn't know what they're doing. I wouldn't want to make a high compression DI engine my first tuning project. If you want to do it yourself, have at it lol. The ECM in this car stores codes, some of which require nearly 30 drive cycles to clear. There are issues with it and pump methanol that you can read about on the HPT forum. You're also going to run into some other bugs that you may or may not be able to figure out depending on your proficiency with HPT.

Just remember, this isn't a Challenger or an eight year old Corvette