SS brembo brakes - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

mgwarlock · 04-26-2014, 09:20 AM

I have a 2012 LT and got a hold on brembo brake calipers....do I need to change the rotors and brake hose?
I want to make sure before I take it apart.

Thanks.

shadycamaro · 04-26-2014, 09:40 AM

stole this from another post/thread with same question...

Quote:

Originally Posted by christianmotox

They are a direct swap, but you will need the rotors, calipers, and brake lines, if you can get the dust covers thats a plus, or you can just cut them to fit.

KaBoom1701 · 04-26-2014, 10:41 AM

I'm in the middle of doing this right now.

Mike the powder coater is doing my SS Brembo's atm.

Another member intensify has been a great resource for me. I hope he doesn't mind but here's a copy of a PM he sent me about doing this upgrade.

"Off the top of my head...

1) Brembo front and rear calipers - inspect the dust boots. If they are cracked or very hard, they should be replaced. Drain the Brembo calipers of fluid. Cut off a chunk of 2x4 or 2.5x4 to fit where the pads and rotors will eventually go. Use an air compressor and push air into the fluid input port. Make sure all 4 pistons move out smoothly. Once done push them back in paying careful attention to keeping them centered. Do this twice per caliper. If any of the cylinders stick for a long time or is stuck, you should replace the seals. At this point you are doing a caliper rebuild. It's not hard, but you should know what you are doing. During a rebuild also make sure the fluid paths are clean (pipe cleaner).
2) SS Rotors - or equivalent. I bought DBA slotted SS rotors (not drilled).
3) New set of caliper bolts front and rear (TTY bolts are one time use bolts). The new bolts come with a lot of Loctite. I suggest you remove about 25% of it. Bolts are an 18mm socket for the front, I forget the rear size.
4) Brake Pads - I went with Hawk High Performance Street
5) Brake Lines - I went with Goodridge. These come with new banjo bolts and copper washers.
6) SS Master Cylinder - Be aware if you do this (you should), you'll need to do a full bench bleed of the new master cylinder (not hard) and a full flush of the old fluid as you will introduce a lot of air into the system. You can buy a bench bleed kit at Napa Auto Parts.
7) Brake Fluid - You'll have to decide if you want DOT3 or DOT4. DOT4 is a great idea if you track the car and or want the best. Motul is a popular DOT4 fluid. I went with Castrol SRF DOT4. OEM is fine if you aren't looking for high performance. I'd buy 4 bottles.
8) Rear dust shields - You can cut yours down with a dremel. The issue is this will leave a real sharp edge for you or mechanics to really slice fingers on later. I bought the SS dust shields. This is harder as you have to pull the rear hubs and parking brakes to install them. The upside is you can replace your rear parking brake pads and also shorten the pull on the parking brake handle. NOTE: The axle nuts are single use just like the caliper bolts. As such you'll need to get new ones. This is where I almost got burned. I bought a socket to install the new nuts (I had them for a couple of weeks). When I pulled the rear rotors I discovered the old axle nut was a different size. Luckily Auto Zone was still open. The socket was $20.
9) I bought new pin kits for the new pads
10) I bought new bleed screws from racing brake. Theirs keep the rubber caps permanently attached.

Pay careful attention to removing the old Loctite from the knuckles and the Brembo calipers. You need a flat aluminum surface with no extra material (Loctite, powder coat, paint, etc.). Otherwise caliper alignment will be off. Make sure there is no paint in the caliper threads.

You'll need a torque wrench for the caliper bolts, axle bolts and wheel nuts. For the axle bolts and wheel nuts, I used a 2.5 foot torque wrench. For the caliper bolts a 1.5 foot torque wrench.

The front end will need to be on jack stands as you'll need to turn the wheels to get access to the left then right calipers. In theory you need all wheels off to do a proper bleed (passenger rear inner, passenger rear outer, driver rear inner, driver rear outer, passenger front inner, passenger front outer, driver front inner, driver front outer).

As to pricing, I forgot what I spent on each piece. I'm moving otherwise I'd pull the invoices for you. Unfortunately, that box is now packed. I bought the OEM parts from Maureen at Rodgers Chevrolet. She is a C5 sponsor with great prices. I buy aftermarket stuff from Chase at Apex Motors Sports. Tyler from JDP is also highly recommended. Many of the aftermarket parts I used came via Maryland Speed. So they are good to deal with as well.

Once you get this all done, I'd still take it to the dealer to have them trigger the ABS computer to flush out the old fluid from the ABS reservoir (Assuming you aren't using OEM DOT 3). If you do that you'll need to take a couple extra pints of your selected brake fluid with you."

I went with the Hawk HPS pads btw.....

mgwarlock · 04-27-2014, 08:31 AM

How much torque for caliper bolt and axle nut?

Thank you all.

KaBoom1701 · 04-27-2014, 10:59 AM

I believe it's 40lbs + 90 degrees on the front and 30 lbs + 90 degrees on the back calipers bolts.

KaBoom1701 · 04-27-2014, 11:02 AM

Here's a GM right up on this Brembo upgrade.

mgwarlock · 04-28-2014, 07:47 PM

Thank you all for the assistance....appreciate it.

04-26-2014, 09:20 AM	#1
mgwarlock Nightfall Gray Blackout Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 358	SS brembo brakes I have a 2012 LT and got a hold on brembo brake calipers....do I need to change the rotors and brake hose? I want to make sure before I take it apart. Thanks.

04-26-2014, 10:41 AM	#3
KaBoom1701 KaBoom1701 Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa) Posts: 8,630	I'm in the middle of doing this right now. Mike the powder coater is doing my SS Brembo's atm. Another member intensify has been a great resource for me. I hope he doesn't mind but here's a copy of a PM he sent me about doing this upgrade. "Off the top of my head... 1) Brembo front and rear calipers - inspect the dust boots. If they are cracked or very hard, they should be replaced. Drain the Brembo calipers of fluid. Cut off a chunk of 2x4 or 2.5x4 to fit where the pads and rotors will eventually go. Use an air compressor and push air into the fluid input port. Make sure all 4 pistons move out smoothly. Once done push them back in paying careful attention to keeping them centered. Do this twice per caliper. If any of the cylinders stick for a long time or is stuck, you should replace the seals. At this point you are doing a caliper rebuild. It's not hard, but you should know what you are doing. During a rebuild also make sure the fluid paths are clean (pipe cleaner). 2) SS Rotors - or equivalent. I bought DBA slotted SS rotors (not drilled). 3) New set of caliper bolts front and rear (TTY bolts are one time use bolts). The new bolts come with a lot of Loctite. I suggest you remove about 25% of it. Bolts are an 18mm socket for the front, I forget the rear size. 4) Brake Pads - I went with Hawk High Performance Street 5) Brake Lines - I went with Goodridge. These come with new banjo bolts and copper washers. 6) SS Master Cylinder - Be aware if you do this (you should), you'll need to do a full bench bleed of the new master cylinder (not hard) and a full flush of the old fluid as you will introduce a lot of air into the system. You can buy a bench bleed kit at Napa Auto Parts. 7) Brake Fluid - You'll have to decide if you want DOT3 or DOT4. DOT4 is a great idea if you track the car and or want the best. Motul is a popular DOT4 fluid. I went with Castrol SRF DOT4. OEM is fine if you aren't looking for high performance. I'd buy 4 bottles. 8) Rear dust shields - You can cut yours down with a dremel. The issue is this will leave a real sharp edge for you or mechanics to really slice fingers on later. I bought the SS dust shields. This is harder as you have to pull the rear hubs and parking brakes to install them. The upside is you can replace your rear parking brake pads and also shorten the pull on the parking brake handle. NOTE: The axle nuts are single use just like the caliper bolts. As such you'll need to get new ones. This is where I almost got burned. I bought a socket to install the new nuts (I had them for a couple of weeks). When I pulled the rear rotors I discovered the old axle nut was a different size. Luckily Auto Zone was still open. The socket was $20. 9) I bought new pin kits for the new pads 10) I bought new bleed screws from racing brake. Theirs keep the rubber caps permanently attached. Pay careful attention to removing the old Loctite from the knuckles and the Brembo calipers. You need a flat aluminum surface with no extra material (Loctite, powder coat, paint, etc.). Otherwise caliper alignment will be off. Make sure there is no paint in the caliper threads. You'll need a torque wrench for the caliper bolts, axle bolts and wheel nuts. For the axle bolts and wheel nuts, I used a 2.5 foot torque wrench. For the caliper bolts a 1.5 foot torque wrench. The front end will need to be on jack stands as you'll need to turn the wheels to get access to the left then right calipers. In theory you need all wheels off to do a proper bleed (passenger rear inner, passenger rear outer, driver rear inner, driver rear outer, passenger front inner, passenger front outer, driver front inner, driver front outer). As to pricing, I forgot what I spent on each piece. I'm moving otherwise I'd pull the invoices for you. Unfortunately, that box is now packed. I bought the OEM parts from Maureen at Rodgers Chevrolet. She is a C5 sponsor with great prices. I buy aftermarket stuff from Chase at Apex Motors Sports. Tyler from JDP is also highly recommended. Many of the aftermarket parts I used came via Maryland Speed. So they are good to deal with as well. Once you get this all done, I'd still take it to the dealer to have them trigger the ABS computer to flush out the old fluid from the ABS reservoir (Assuming you aren't using OEM DOT 3). If you do that you'll need to take a couple extra pints of your selected brake fluid with you." I went with the Hawk HPS pads btw..... __________________ Mods: Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats.

04-27-2014, 10:59 AM	#5
KaBoom1701 KaBoom1701 Drives: 13' ZL1 Red M6 Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: I.E. SoCal (Yucaipa) Posts: 8,630	I believe it's 40lbs + 90 degrees on the front and 30 lbs + 90 degrees on the back calipers bolts. __________________ Mods: Roto-Fab Intake, WW Res. kit & Big Gulp Air Scoop, Elite Catch Can, ATI Super Damper & 18% OD Pulley, LF Idler pulley bracket, Metco CC breather, ID850 Injectors, Stainless Power Headers w/ ceramic coating, TR71X Spark Plugs, JMS Fuel Pump Booster, Bo White TB, Tuned by Ted @ Jannetty Racing, Ron Davis HX, D3 Reservoir, Pfadt 1" Springs, Moreno Camber Plates, ZL1 Addons Splitter guard washers, Tow Hook kit & rock guards, Hurst Shifter Billet Plus 6 Speed Short Shifter, ZL1 DRL lighting harness, ZL1 Recaro Seats.

04-27-2014, 08:31 AM	#4
mgwarlock Nightfall Gray Blackout Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 358	How much torque for caliper bolt and axle nut? Thank you all.

04-28-2014, 07:47 PM	#7
mgwarlock Nightfall Gray Blackout Drives: 2016 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2012 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 358	Thank you all for the assistance....appreciate it.