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Old 02-03-2021, 07:18 AM   #29
TheRealJA105

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krowser View Post
At no point what I said makes sense and everybody is dumber right?

I guess this means you must be a GM engineer and a psychic.

Tell me Ms. Cleo with a PHD in engineering , why is the LT4 engine offset so far to the passenger side of the engine bay?

NVH of the motor is mostly absorb by the motor mounts; however, engine positioning is very important for weight distribution and driving dynamics....ask AUDI

Stiffer motor mounts will increase engine NVH from cold starts, spirited driving and put more flex on the mounting points and forward frame of the vehicle.

YOUR opinion is like public school on Sunday...no class...
A. You've never seen Billy Madison OMG!
B. No just a Bachelors degree
C. The engine is not offset
D. If you think you want your engine flying around the engine bay, why don't you just fully disconnect your motor mounts? Disconnect your sway bars while you are at it too. That will make your car ride smoother and move more weight the opposite direction just like YOU want.
E. Just stop
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Old 02-03-2021, 07:51 AM   #30
Choda
 
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I installed my mock up engine with the mounts and it seems to be in the same exact location. I even emailed them to make sure before purchasing.
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Old 02-03-2021, 05:24 PM   #31
20Bluezl1

 
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Just got the BMR mounts let see if I can install them this week.
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:21 PM   #32
newchevyman
 
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I've had poly mounts on a 4th gen and C6Z. Didn't notice any added NVH. Wish I knew about these before I did heads/cam since they save a good chunk of weight.
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Old 02-03-2021, 06:40 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
Just got the BMR mounts let see if I can install them this week.
NICE !! Remember to weigh them and compare to the stock ones.
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Old 02-03-2021, 07:13 PM   #34
20Bluezl1

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain View Post
NICE !! Remember to weigh them and compare to the stock ones.
Will do 👍🏻
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Old 02-03-2021, 09:05 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
Will do 👍🏻
Your feedback and any tips or tricks on install will be greatly appreciated
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:04 PM   #36
driven2exceSS

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
Just got the BMR mounts let see if I can install them this week.
...Did you end up ordering them direct from BMR?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alain View Post
NICE !! Remember to weigh them and compare to the stock ones.
+1
Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
Will do

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evansa22 View Post
Your feedback and any tips or tricks on install will be greatly appreciated
And of course this too...
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Last edited by driven2exceSS; 02-03-2021 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 02-04-2021, 12:30 AM   #37
20Bluezl1

 
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So the best deal anywhere is directly from RDP and there a a promo code BMR12D. Tbey have them in stock and ready to ship.

So I started installing the passenger side first because that is the side I had with no header installed.

Let me start by saying don't attempt to do the BMR mounts without removing the headers. It will almost be impossible even though BMR instructions do not mention to remove them.

BMR instructions are pretty good tbey are just missing a couple of details that they do not mention or show on the pictures.

You need to have a jack with a peice of wood so you can jack up the motor to relief pressure. I use a 2x6 of wood and a 2 ton jack worked perfectly. Also just to mention everything is done with car on a Quick Jack.

1. Removal of headers stock or aftermarket.
2. Removal of starter ( Don't need to but gives you alot more space to remove old mount)
3. Jack motor up a little
4. Remove a 10mm bolt that is holding coolant line, 3 - 15mm bolts from the mount to the motor ( don't reuse them)
5. Remove 2 - 15mm bolts to the subframe (SAVE BOLTS)
6. Jack motor up until you see mount loosen up.
7. There are a couple of clips that the BMR instructions don't tell you to remove that are clipped to the mount.
8. Remove the OEM motor mount
9. BMR instructions image 22 and 23 are tricky because they don't tell you to remove a 13mm bolt to a bracket holding wire harness. SO REMOVE 13MM BOLT AND ALSO THE 15MM BOLT FOR THE GROUND. DONT REUSE BOLTS.
10. Install BMR mount with loose aluminum spacer. Spacer goes ontop of the wire harness bracket not the ground bolt.
11. BMR instructions show wiring harness over mount I decided to leave it under so it can be further away from the headers.
12. Tighten the 4 long bolts provided by BMR. They are supposed to be torqued to 43ftlb but it's almost impossible to get a torque wrench in there. I tighten 3 out of the 4 with the torque wrench. Also I decided to put a tiny bit of lock tight just incase.
13. Install bracket to subframe with factory bolts and tighten. Don't tighten the BMR 24mm bolt yet incase you need to jack up to do driverside.
14. Lower jack all done now do drivers side.


Weight

BMR 5.5 LB
OEM 7.3

Both bmr mount 9.8
Attached Images
    
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Old 02-04-2021, 06:52 AM   #38
TheRealJA105

 
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Soooo much more room with both the MM010 style and the headers removed
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:08 AM   #39
Choda
 
Drives: Turbo 6.2
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Looks like both top bolts on the passenger side has ground straps, is that correct? I dont remember seeing that when I pulled my motor.
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Old 02-04-2021, 07:22 AM   #40
driven2exceSS

 
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Drives: 2016 2SS BLK A8 Vert
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20Bluezl1 View Post
So the best deal anywhere is directly from RDP and there a a promo code BMR12D. Tbey have them in stock and ready to ship.

So I started installing the passenger side first because that is the side I had with no header installed.

Let me start by saying don't attempt to do the BMR mounts without removing the headers. It will almost be impossible even though BMR instructions do not mention to remove them.

BMR instructions are pretty good tbey are just missing a couple of details that they do not mention or show on the pictures.

You need to have a jack with a peice of wood so you can jack up the motor to relief pressure. I use a 2x6 of wood and a 2 ton jack worked perfectly. Also just to mention everything is done with car on a Quick Jack.

1. Removal of headers stock or aftermarket.
2. Removal of starter ( Don't need to but gives you alot more space to remove old mount)
3. Jack motor up a little
4. Remove a 10mm bolt that is holding coolant line, 3 - 15mm bolts from the mount to the motor ( don't reuse them)
5. Remove 2 - 15mm bolts to the subframe (SAVE BOLTS)
6. Jack motor up until you see mount loosen up.
7. There are a couple of clips that the BMR instructions don't tell you to remove that are clipped to the mount.
8. Remove the OEM motor mount
9. BMR instructions image 22 and 23 are tricky because they don't tell you to remove a 13mm bolt to a bracket holding wire harness. SO REMOVE 13MM BOLT AND ALSO THE 15MM BOLT FOR THE GROUND. DONT REUSE BOLTS.
10. Install BMR mount with loose aluminum spacer. Spacer goes ontop of the wire harness bracket not the ground bolt.
11. BMR instructions show wiring harness over mount I decided to leave it under so it can be further away from the headers.
12. Tighten the 4 long bolts provided by BMR. They are supposed to be torqued to 43ftlb but it's almost impossible to get a torque wrench in there. I tighten 3 out of the 4 with the torque wrench. Also I decided to put a tiny bit of lock tight just incase.
13. Install bracket to subframe with factory bolts and tighten. Don't tighten the BMR 24mm bolt yet incase you need to jack up to do driverside.
14. Lower jack all done now do drivers side.


Weight

BMR 5.5 LB
OEM 7.3

Both bmr mount 9.8
Strong work, thank you!! Looks great too! ...Just to be clear on the weight, the OEM was the mount and the bracket?? I was under the impression there was more weight savings. Oh well.
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NPP, MRC, Tinted side & rear reflectors, OEM ZL1 Rockers / 3rd Brake / Darken tail lights, OEM Blk rear splash guards, Satin hood wrap, Fuse pull, Sound tube delete, Cat delete, Ported 95 TB, Ported MSD IM, Dry RotoFab, ARH 1 7/8 headers, E85, "Performance Dyno" Tune, BMR "pieces", "Track" alignment, Hawk DCT-70/70's w/SRF, Goodridge lines, Ti shims, Red powdered calipers, 18" APEX SM-10's w/ Pirelli DH's, FE4 Vert swaybars, Brake cooling ducts, ATI 10% UD, Vorshlag camber plates, OEM 1LE Splitter w/APR Ext., Velossa BIG MOUTH Ram Air, CF QA1, ZLE brakes(F)
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Old 02-04-2021, 10:24 AM   #41
20Bluezl1

 
Drives: 2020 Zl1 A10 Riverside Blue
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choda View Post
Looks like both top bolts on the passenger side has ground straps, is that correct? I dont remember seeing that when I pulled my motor.
Left bolt is just a bracket for wiring harness, right bolt is the ground.
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Old 02-04-2021, 10:25 AM   #42
20Bluezl1

 
Drives: 2020 Zl1 A10 Riverside Blue
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Posts: 1,227
Quote:
Originally Posted by driven2exceSS View Post
Strong work, thank you!! Looks great too! ...Just to be clear on the weight, the OEM was the mount and the bracket?? I was under the impression there was more weight savings. Oh well.
Weight is mount bracket and bolts.
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