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Old 02-06-2019, 12:34 PM   #29
DorkMissile
 
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How’s the drilling going?
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Old 02-06-2019, 12:45 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldman View Post
On the 10.9' 1LE, IMO, only if somebody makes a gear based LSD and then there is no need of any e controls Call me oldschool.
I think that is the reason the aftermarket is pursuing center section conversions as the cost to develop any kind of diff update for the 1LE/ZL1 diff would be expensive and take a long time to recover your development cost. With such a small market, the aftermarket is going to develop a solution that will work in both the standard V8 cars and the e-diff cars.

The time for them to get their money back will be a lot faster if they figure out how to put currently existing components into the car.

Gear manufacturing is incrededably expensive. The tooling you use for high production stuff is very expensive to change over to different sizes / designs, and the places that are good at making short run gears are usually booked way out and charge for their services.
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Old 02-06-2019, 02:45 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by DorkMissile View Post
How’s the drilling going?
No progress this week. Got out of the -40’s windchill and are at Disneyland.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 02-12-2019, 06:17 PM   #32
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Got time to play a little tonight. That is a 3/4” pin in the first pic. Once it is flush with the carrier I think it will be nearly evenly split on each side of that weld line.

I found a paint can to be decent for holding the diff.

I did a few practice holes. .234 carbide drill bit and a .249 reamer made for a nice snug fit. I welded one and think I will weld the ones on the diff. Only real question now is how well the ring gear drills.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:30 PM   #33
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I got this done. Had a couple of dumb issues.

First pin wouldn’t go all the way in, not sure what I did wrong there. It was only about 1/8” short so I just ground it off. I was more careful checking my depth and cleaning the holes after that and didn’t have that issue again.

I had one bit break when it was transitioning from the carrier to the ring gear. It took me a few minutes to dig out the broken bit. I made up a sturdier holder out of a scrap of 6” fitters pipe.

It is ready to go in the car. I will get that done but likely won’t get to drive it for another month due to the weather.
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dropped a valve in the 6.2. now running a drop in rods and piston 5.3
best et 5.83@121 with the 5.3 http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465472
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Old 02-23-2019, 12:31 AM   #34
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Glad its done - I say run it until it breaks and then take it in to the dealer under warranty and let them find the welds lol

The .249 reamer probably worked as in a drill chuck you will have a little run out.

As far as the depth, you would have to overdrill the depth by 30% to make up for the tip if the drill itself, then about another .1" for the chamfer on the reamer. So basically you would have to be 1" deep to be flush on the pin
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Old 03-31-2023, 09:16 PM   #35
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Bookmarked for technical info.

Parish, did you break it yet?
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Old 04-02-2023, 10:33 PM   #36
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As a toolmaker and Camaro racer/builder this thread makes me smile...

I do this kind of work daily and I like the idea, but I don't see the logic in this modification in terms of improvement of actual strength. But I am excited to see your result and hoping it turns out to be an improvement!

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Old 04-05-2023, 07:48 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h018871 View Post
Bookmarked for technical info.

Parish, did you break it yet?
He sold his car and moved on a long time ago.
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Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA
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Old 04-05-2023, 07:58 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by KingLT1 View Post
He sold his car and moved on a long time ago.
That’s too bad…

On a related note, I just bought a spare SS diff to mess with. After looking at it up close, it’s damn beefy for an OEM diff. I had my brother review this thread and he thinks we can take this up a notch with some precision machine work. The pins should definitely be able to stop the main weld from taking all the abuse at launch. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to mess with this over the summer and will post up pics.
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Old 04-05-2023, 08:14 PM   #39
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Nice!
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Per. times- 10.5 @ 137 w/ 1.8 60ft Full weight on 20's 1200DA
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Old 04-12-2023, 10:51 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
That’s too bad…

On a related note, I just bought a spare SS diff to mess with. After looking at it up close, it’s damn beefy for an OEM diff. I had my brother review this thread and he thinks we can take this up a notch with some precision machine work. The pins should definitely be able to stop the main weld from taking all the abuse at launch. Hopefully I’ll have a chance to mess with this over the summer and will post up pics.

Can we get gears too? I'm in the market for 4.10s-4.56
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Old 04-12-2023, 12:21 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by BeefTaco View Post
Can we get gears too? I'm in the market for 4.10s-4.56
You can get anything you want with enough cash!

Only way to get that diff gearing would be to run the Ford 9” conversion. And you would never be able to hook up with the stock A8/A10 gearing…! But I suspect even a 2nd gear launch would still spin…
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Old 04-14-2023, 09:39 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Joshinator99 View Post
You can get anything you want with enough cash!

Only way to get that diff gearing would be to run the Ford 9” conversion. And you would never be able to hook up with the stock A8/A10 gearing…! But I suspect even a 2nd gear launch would still spin…
Talking man pedal cars. I completely understand that there are only 2 options for gears and they're both expensive 9inch kits. However, I'm just trying to coax someone into actually making gears for the stock housing.
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