[BMR Suspension]

Originally Posted by TECHTURTLE

Okay, so I just drove to pick up some Chinese food, it was a short trip but here are my thoughts. Holy Sh!t, what a difference! The car feels so much more responsive. Turns are super sharp and overall I felt more connected to the road. I went over some speed bumps that I've gone over 1000 times. but this time there was much less bounce to them. The ride is stiffer but I wouldn't say harsh.

More tomorrow when I can go for a longer ride.

[mustangcrusher1]

Did you have to use a jack under the rotor to install the upper and lower TA? and the same for the control arm? is there a load on any of these parts once you take out one of the bolts? does the rotor and splindle drop? or do you use the jack to lift them up just a little to get the bolt out and back in?thanks

[locktyght]

Originally Posted by mustangcrusher1

Did you have to use a jack under the rotor to install the upper and lower TA? and the same for the control arm? is there a load on any of these parts once you take out one of the bolts? does the rotor and splindle drop? or do you use the jack to lift them up just a little to get the bolt out and back in?thanks

Replace them one at a time, and it should go smooth, I can't remember off the top of my head, but at one point, I had 2 of 3 arms removed, and it made getting it all back in line a PITA.

[BMR Suspension]

Originally Posted by mustangcrusher1

Did you have to use a jack under the rotor to install the upper and lower TA? and the same for the control arm? is there a load on any of these parts once you take out one of the bolts? does the rotor and splindle drop? or do you use the jack to lift them up just a little to get the bolt out and back in?thanks

It takes a little bit of muscle but everything should go in without a jack. You may have to rotate the spindle to get everything aligned if you have more than one link out at the same time.

[TECHTURTLE]

Might not be required but the jack made getting the lower trailing arms in a LOT easier.

[KungFuHamster]

I have access to a frame lift and a drive on lift at the hobby shop base at Oceana. Which would be recommended for ease of installation? Seems like the frame lift would be since it allows the suspension to unload.

[TECHTURTLE]

Originally Posted by KungFuHamster

I have access to a frame lift and a drive on lift at the hobby shop base at Oceana. Which would be recommended for ease of installation? Seems like the frame lift would be since it allows the suspension to unload.

If you are going to use a lift I'd go with the frame.... But you really don't need one. A floor jack and one stand is all you need.

[PolynesianPowerhouse]

Originally Posted by TECHTURTLE

Okay, so I just drove to pick up some Chinese food, it was a short trip but here are my thoughts. Holy Sh!t, what a difference! The car feels so much more responsive. Turns are super sharp and overall I felt more connected to the road. I went over some speed bumps that I've gone over 1000 times. but this time there was much less bounce to them. The ride is stiffer but I wouldn't say harsh.

More tomorrow when I can go for a longer ride.

I've got all you have, minus the tunnel brace...and I havent installed the cradle braceS you have for the front.

I agree with the improvement you noticed.

I have both bmr front and rear adjustable bars, currently set on medium until the new upgraded rear swaybar links come in soon.

But it definitely is an amazing setup.

[Black_FiFTY]

I purchased the FE4 front/rear sway bars, BMR rear upper/lower trailing arms, BMR rear upper controller arm & Eibach lowering kit. i'm really excited to get these all installed. Wish I could do it myself. It's going to cost me $850 according to 2 estimates and I have to wait till May.

[Dustya]

Originally Posted by Black_FiFTY

I purchased the FE4 front/rear sway bars, BMR rear upper/lower trailing arms, BMR rear upper controller arm & Eibach lowering kit. i'm really excited to get these all installed. Wish I could do it myself. It's going to cost me $850 according to 2 estimates and I have to wait till May.

Honestly you can do it yourself I never did anything suspension before and I installed BC coilovers myself. With the exception of removing the bars you are pretty much doing the job anyways when doing lowering springs or coilovers.

I know have a very good knowledge of the suspension of my car as well which is nice to have.

I also paid for the lifetime alignment at local shop so I can just go whenever I want no having to pay $60-80 a pop. Since I knew I would be doing more its well worth the investment.

[Black_FiFTY]

Yeah I watched a video from RP productions over the weekend. He had Ricardo from Phastek installing BMR springs on his 1LE. The process seemed super simple. If I had a lift I think I could do some of it myself. I had one shop tell me 2hrs per wheel, I think they just didn't want to do the work

Video

[TECHTURTLE]

You really can do most of it yourself. You don't need a lift if you do one wheel at a time.

[Sub]

Tech, any update on your honest feedback on the sways after you've run with them a bit?

[irmb]

Originally Posted by Black_FiFTY

Yeah I watched a video from RP productions over the weekend. He had Ricardo from Phastek installing BMR springs on his 1LE. The process seemed super simple. If I had a lift I think I could do some of it myself. I had one shop tell me 2hrs per wheel, I think they just didn't want to do the work

Video

I just did my own coilovers yesterday. The first of each side might take you 2 hours each - but subsequent ones are closer to an hour. Goes much faster when you know what you're doing.