[Alpha1BC]

Shouldn't have any issues either way, but they might not have any benefit. I don't know off the top of my head if you'd still have enough of the stock center bore poking through for the wheels/rings to rest on (I assume most of the cheap 3mm spacers won't have the center bore extension anyways), but even if there not anything for it to grab on it won't hurt anything, It'll just be captured between the wheel and the rotor face.

If you're asking because you still have yet to buy them, I'd say it's worth it to lift one corner and take a wheel off to see how much center bore there is protruding from the rotor if no one else has the answer and chimes in.

[TheRealJA105]

There is at least 10mm of the hub bore protruding. The smallest spacers available that come with an extended hub surface are 12mm. With my 5mm spacers my 20" wheels still rest on the stock hub bore.

[Alpha1BC]

Perfect, should be good then!

[Msquared]

So I agree with Alpha1BC completely. I'll just add that the weight of the wheel/tire/rotor/spacer puts exactly zero wear on the bearing. That's not what loads the bearing, because that is supported by the ground (and I'm pretty sure the ground can handle the extra weight of the spacer!). It's everything on the other side of the bearing that loads it: roughly 3550lb of car is being held off the ground by the four wheel bearings. So again, even if the spacers did add to the bearing loads (like, say, you're bringing them home from the speed shop in a box that you tossed in the trunk), your bearings will not notice the difference at all. A set of 3mm spacers probably weigh less than a full bladder, so if you're worried about stressing your wheel bearings then just make sure to pee before you go for a drive.

But seriously, folks...I like to consider the wheel's offset minus any spacer thickness as the "net effective offset." And so a wheel/spacer combo with 32mm net effective offset will put the exact same load on the bearing as a wheel with 32mm offset and no spacer (assuming the same wheel width and tire size, of course). It's all based on the lateral center of pressure of the contact patch: that's the point which determines the leverage on the bearing. Same leverage = same bearing load.

[HCI2000SS]

Thank you for all the info guys. Here are the ones I'm looking at since they have the 67mm bore (same as the stock hub) and are a 5x120 bolt pattern. Should they fit over the stock wheel studs? Mine you I need them to work with my hub ring adapters, which are 67mm to 74mm

https://www.ebay.com/p/15004243707

[h018871]

My $0.02

Using a 3mm spacer there is still enough of the hub protruding past the spacer for the wheel to center on if the wheel has the correct bore size, if too big a hub ring is fine.
I am cheap, but feel that the ebay spacers do not have 'enough' consistent clamping force at the track and heat transfer from the wheel to the hub is restricted. Both due to a smaller contact area. Additionally, the expensive ones have much tighter tolerances, at least the ones I have to compare. For street, I would have no concern.

I only needed two spacers for the front, so I went with the more expensive ones. When you add up the additional cost of the spacers, ARP studs and lug nuts, it is probably cheaper to get correct offset wheels........I guess it is dependent on the wheel manufacturer and availability of the offset desired and/or if you got a super deal on the wheels.

[TheRealJA105]

My eBay spacers have a full contact surface and only 5 lug holes. They are not like the ones you show on the left.

[h018871]

Full contact is the way to go, IMO. Get them the cheapest that you can. It would have been cool if I found those before I paid $$$