[cjperformance]

Hey all,

Reaching out to Too High Psi for more info on a kit.

Thinking port inj and pulley down to 3.7" pulley and see where I'm at. Open to suggestions.

Goals for this move are:

- increase average boost (sucks with 4.13 pulley)
- drop shift point to 6500-6700 (currently around 6950 due to 4.13 pulley and generating enough boost)
- no more mixing at the pump
- run 10.2@135 (why did I pick that number? IDK just because I'm bored with 10.8 I guess 10.2 @ 135 sounds nice right now)
- don't explode engine

Any thoughts or further suggestions? Anyone else running a 3.7"? If so, what kind of numbers do you see?

Update: 2/24/23

Adding links to some of laynlos previous threads for reference:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608360
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608699
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608988
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609567
https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=610232

Update 3/1/23

I'll still be updating progress that pertains to my procharger install, but instead of reposting all the same generic stuff that radz28 on the THPSI stuff, just going to link his thread here:

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613426

Update 3/2/23

Haven't assembled anything yet, but here the list of PTFE Hose, PTFE Compatible hose ends, and Misc stuff:
1 - VPE-18966 - 10' of -6 ptfe nylon hose
4 - VPE-16886 - Fuel rail adapter 3/8 to -6AN
4 - VPE-28006 - Female Hose End Straight -6AN
3 - VPE-28906 - Female Hose End 90 Degree -6AN
1 - VPE-28806 - Female Hose End 180 Degree -6AN
1 - VPE-10732 - Female to Female 90 Degree Union -6AN
1 - VPE-10792 - MMF Tee - Tee 2x male (arms) and 1x female (trunk)
1 - VPE-10742 - MFM Tee 1X male (arm) 1x female (arm) 1x male (trunk)

Update 3/4/23

Some fun stuff showed up today. No fittings yet though. As others have noted, everything looks like AAA+ quality.

[laynlo15]

Absolutely, its the best bang for the buck. No additional fuel system should be needed. Let me know if you I can help

[rcoe]

You and I are about in the same spot, once I get my current flex tune fully dialed in if I decide I need more this will be the route.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by rcoe

You and I are about in the same spot, once I get my current flex tune fully dialed in if I decide I need more this will be the route.

More than anything, I want this for the safety factor. I'm already pushing the LT4 stuff pretty far, and that's with a 4.13 pulley on E50. On a warm day, it's all fine and dandy, but when the temps get below 60, it starts getting dicey.

I'll try to do what radz28 is doing and put info out here, but I'll probably focus more on the tuning. Looks like the hardware aspect is pretty straightforward.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

More than anything, I want this for the safety factor. I'm already pushing the LT4 stuff pretty far, and that's with a 4.13 pulley on E50. On a warm day, it's all fine and dandy, but when the temps get below 60, it starts getting dicey.

I'll try to do what radz28 is doing and put info out here, but I'll probably focus more on the tuning. Looks like the hardware aspect is pretty straightforward.

I don't think you were posting much but I posted threads 6 months ago on the same stuff that Radz is now posting.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by laynlo15

I don't think you were posting much but I posted threads 6 months ago on the same stuff that Radz is now posting.

Oh, right. Thanks for the reminder. I need to go back and reread through your writeup too.

Ive been looking at the required AN fittings since the fuel plumbing isn't included. Its been prob 20 years since the last time i fabbed up AN lines.

Watched the install vids on toohighpsi's site. Ready to get things going!

Ill probably do the PI first and get the tune ironed out, since im very familiar with my current tune. Then once i have that ironed out, ill look at pulley-ing down.

Other than tune changes as required for the PI itself, I plan on updating the spark retard vs iat table to pull less spark. With PI, IATs will read the same, but will actualy have a cooler charge going into the cyl. That table is near stock right now for safety and it def pulls timing in 4th and 5th gear at the end of the 1/4. I think currently it pulls spark starting around 130 degrees, and IATs are around 170 at the end of the 1/4. Im thinking that i will only need to start pulling spark at 150... and maybe even higher if i run full (or pump) E85.

IATs will probably get worse when i pulley down too. IATs are a win for the PDs vs centri.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

Oh, right. Thanks for the reminder. I need to go back and reread through your writeup too.

Ive been looking at the required AN fittings since the fuel plumbing isn't included. Its been prob 20 years since the last time i fabbed up AN lines.

Watched the install vids on toohighpsi's site. Ready to get things going!

Ill probably do the PI first and get the tune ironed out, since im very familiar with my current tune. Then once i have that ironed out, ill look at pulley-ing down.

Other than tune changes as required for the PI itself, I plan on updating the spark retard vs iat table to pull less spark. With PI, IATs will read the same, but will actualy have a cooler charge going into the cyl. That table is near stock right now for safety and it def pulls timing in 4th and 5th gear at the end of the 1/4. I think currently it pulls spark starting around 130 degrees, and IATs are around 170 at the end of the 1/4. Im thinking that i will only need to start pulling spark at 150... and maybe even higher if i run full (or pump) E85.

IATs will probably get worse when i pulley down too. IATs are a win for the PDs vs centri.

I'm just shifting into 6 shortly before the end of the 1/4 mile. You'll be able to run more timing and E content with the port injection. I run 69 percent DI and 31 percent Port Injection when it goes WOT.

[cjperformance]

We all know what an engine looks like, but here's the starting point. I removed the grey plastic cover over the intake manifold. I'll probably need to remove the black plastic valve cover uhh... covers.

Ignore the amazing hose retention device (old sock) I am using while I am cleaning the air filter. That hose goes into the air filter.

They say the camera adds 10 lbs. In my case it is apparently 10 lbs of dirt. I swear it doesn't look that dirty in person... weird.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by cjperformance

We all know what an engine looks like, but here's the starting point. I removed the grey plastic cover over the intake manifold. I'll probably need to remove the black plastic valve cover uhh... covers.

Ignore the amazing hose retention device (old sock) I am using while I am cleaning the air filter. That hose goes into the air filter.

They say the camera adds 10 lbs. In my case it is apparently 10 lbs of dirt. I swear it doesn't look that dirty in person... weird.

That is the first thing I do when I get a new ride with an Lt1 or even an Ls. Get rid of that crap on top. I looks bad, it holds heat and covers up the raw look that I like. Good job Chris.

[JP374]

I’m looking fwd to this, I too am Procharged. P1X with 3.7” and 8.25 lower. Fully forged.

I’d love to have the added fuel and not blend e60. I’m concerned with getting the TQ tables and everything adjusted after. Right now the car drives awesome and makes awesome power. Honestly that’s the biggest thing holding me back. It took me awhile to get my drivability the way it is now. It looks pretty straight fwd to adjust the MAF etc but it’s the TQ tables that I found control a lot of the drivability.

Looking fwd to your progress

[radz28]

Post progress on all of your stuff guys. The more information the better.

Regarding tuning, and especially VTT and such, I intend on following up on that side in my thread, for sure. It seems like by compensating on the fueling side, we don't have to mess with the airflow model, so the torque shouldn't be affected. Again - I'll report back over the coming weeks as I get more miles on the car. We shouldn't have to mess with the MAF if this method is what it is stated it is, even though the method outlined by Mike, to my understanding, has been used for a long time for meth', so when done correctly, is perfectly fine. There are LOTS of shops that have been successful, so there doesn't seem to be anything to be concerned about.

[Dennis 2ss]

Originally Posted by JP374

I’m looking fwd to this, I too am Procharged. P1X with 3.7” and 8.25 lower. Fully forged.

I’d love to have the added fuel and not blend e60. I’m concerned with getting the TQ tables and everything adjusted after. Right now the car drives awesome and makes awesome power. Honestly that’s the biggest thing holding me back. It took me awhile to get my drivability the way it is now. It looks pretty straight fwd to adjust the MAF etc but it’s the TQ tables that I found control a lot of the drivability.

Looking fwd to your progress

What injector are you using now? FIC or XDI?

[laynlo15]

You use Tunerpro RT to adjust the Maf, the port injection only comes in when the Maf see's 6500 hz on mine and then then its about 30% port and 70% DI. You have to smooth the curve so port comes in smoothly in the curve and doesn't hit to harshly. Most of the deals that I've done for Mike we've recommended the FIC 95lb injectors.

[cjperformance]

Originally Posted by radz28

Post progress on all of your stuff guys. The more information the better.

Regarding tuning, and especially VTT and such, I intend on following up on that side in this thread, too. It seems like by compensating on the fueling side, we don't have to mess with the airflow model, so the torque shouldn't be affected. Again - I'll report back over the coming weeks as I get more miles on the car. We shouldn't have to mess with the MAF if this method is what it is stated it is, even though the method outlined by Mike, to my understanding, has been used for a long time for meth', so when done correctly, is perfectly fine. There are LOTS of shops that have been successful, so there doesn't seem to be anything to be concerned about.

To clarify, is the alternate method just pulling fuel from PE, and leaving the MAF alone except to fine tune once PE adjustments get things close to desired eqr on the wideband?