[tecboy]

It depends on if you are worried about cutting wires/running wires from doors to trunk or doing something that is reversible. The easiest way is just do the harness at the Bose amp....no wire cutting and taking trim and door panels off to run wire to trunk...I actually made a bypass harness myself(before S*bth*mp came out with theirs) that feeds 6 Bose amp speaker out channels to my DSP...with regards to LOC vs high level to the amp...dont think it makes much difference for a sub woofer...i think that decision would be driven by your sub amp...what sort of inputs it has...


My sub box is actually from same company as the harness you are looking at...its just wedged in there...if i take the carpeted cover off that is surrounding the amps, i can actually take the sub box out after disconnecting the speaker wires...purposely did it this way so that when i have to change the battery, i can pull the side panel back or off far enough in order to access the battery

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by tecboy

It depends on if you are worried about cutting wires/running wires from doors to trunk or doing something that is reversible. The easiest way is just do the harness at the Bose amp....no wire cutting and taking trim and door panels off to run wire to trunk...I actually made a bypass harness myself(before S*bth*mp came out with theirs) that feeds 6 Bose amp speaker out channels to my DSP...with regards to LOC vs high level to the amp...dont think it makes much difference for a sub woofer...i think that decision would be driven by your sub amp...what sort of inputs it has...


My sub box is actually from same company as the harness you are looking at...its just wedged in there...if i take the carpeted cover off that is surrounding the amps, i can actually take the sub box out after disconnecting the speaker wires...purposely did it this way so that when i have to change the battery, i can pull the side panel back or off far enough in order to access the battery

Well if I splice myself, I would splice where the wires are going into the amp so I wouldnt need to go up to the front doors, but it does sound like that harness is going to be a little better. I guess it will depend on what amp I go with. If it has high level inputs ill go with the harness, if not, I will do the LoC and just splice in myself. I also saw that same company did sell boxes but I can build them myself for much cheaper and also they dont have a single ported 12.

The only other thing is the REM wire. What do I splice in to get the amp to know when to turn on?

EDIT* Come to think of it, if I use an amp with high level inputs, would I need that harness at all? (The new KickerCX amps accept up to 40 volts) Could I not just splice into the front speaker wires at the amp and feed them directly into the amp? It seems like a waste of money to get the harness. The only other thing was the ANC being deactivated but unless that changes for 2019 models, I dont think the non SS even have that. (Also can't you just unplug a wire to cancel that anyway?)

[tecboy]

splicing wires vs harness...like i stated earlier...depends on if you care the wire is spliced vs using a harness where you can easily return back to factory if you take sub out.



we just unplugged the mics in the doors when the panels were off to replace the door speakers...again on that...you can unplug in the doors, cut one of each of the mic wires at the amp...or get the anc harness from said supplier...if you have the bose amp....you have anc mics in the doors


if i recall..we tapped the wireless charge pad fuse for rem turn on...you could also get an amp that has input sensing where it turns the amp on...i think they even have modules that you plug in line with an rca cable that senses audio that would supply a remote turn on

[RideWithDanger]

I'm comfortable with splicing wires professionally enough to make it 99.9% stock if I take the sub out. If it was a $20 harness or something then maybe but the price is just too high to justify that.

I did see somewhere to use fuse #33 I believe for the REM. And yes the amp I'm planning on wouldn't NEED it but I still like the REM option better.

Well, I think that covers everything. Should not be much of a problem. Other than the mics in the door but that seems like a super easy fix.

[tecboy]

Good Luck

[WhyUMad1LE]

I hate subs firing in the trunk, always sounds muddy compared to a system firing in the cabin.

[RideWithDanger]

Yeah I'm hoping to design a box that will fire into the cabin. Also where can I find a wiring diagram so I know which 2 wires to splice into ?

[drfeelgood]

Agree on forward firing subs sealed from the trunk. Have this setup in my V, perfect bass response.

I'm the wrong person to ask about cheapest way to install the system. After two audio overhauls, I'm over $15k in on audio alone .. but it's perfect now

[tecboy]

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488428

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

Agree on forward firing subs sealed from the trunk. Have this setup in my V, perfect bass response.

I'm the wrong person to ask about cheapest way to install the system. After two audio overhauls, I'm over $15k in on audio alone .. but it's perfect now

Lol I know exactly what you mean. My last daily driver is about to be sold and I'm taking all that audio equipment out because it's worth more than the car is.

I may end up redoing everything but it will be a while. I just want to start with a subwoofer and see how I like it.

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by tecboy

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488428

Kind of difficult to read on my phone but it appears I need to splice into the blue/black and green/black wires. Also it was just brought to my attention that if the head unit still rolls off the bass for the front speakers I'll still need a LoC. So I may still end up going that route.

[Booher]

I used a dsp and a sub thump harness on Amazon. You guys are making this way too expensive and hard, you dont need that super expensive fancy stuff unless you are a top notch audiophile. 90% of the population cant even notice. Should be able to do that with about $150. Super easy, especially if you have installed stereos before. The subwoofers will produce more bass firing towards the rear, but that's for max spl. Also, ported boxed are the absolute loudest boxes for bass as you can tune the specific frequency with the size and length of your port. I'm sure you already know that though. Dont forget to pull the mic pin on your bose harness.

[tecboy]

You need pin 2/6 and 3/7 to tap off door speakers..GM calls the rear deck speakers subwoofers but they really are not...they are the exact same part number as the door 6x9's...


there are actually 3 plugs going in to bose amp....the door speakers are on the first on in the post i linked to...you will see in one of the other plugs the ANC mic connection...if you dont want to pull the door panels and dont care about cutting a couple of wires...you can disable the anc at the amp



as to the bass roll off....that starts about 60% volume....line level converter isnt going to fix that...wont make any difference tapping high level direct to amp vs high level speaker out of the bose amp to line level converter. The only way you are going to overcome the bass roll off is to do the PAC of NAV unit to tap the most50 signal from the head unit...before the bose amp manipulates the signal...you want more bass at lower levels...you will need to adjust your amp gains accordingly..


I agree...this Bose system can be challenging and expensive to upgrade depending on what you want to do...Adding a subwoofer is one of the easiest and cheapest things to do in order to improve the sound for most...i went the full system route...had to do a 3Sixty3 DSP to fix the Bose amp outputs....its easier now with the PAC and NAV units that let you tap in to the raw signal coming out of the head unit...but those werent around a couple of years ago when i upgrade mine

[RideWithDanger]

Originally Posted by Booher

I used a dsp and a sub thump harness on Amazon. You guys are making this way too expensive and hard, you dont need that super expensive fancy stuff unless you are a top notch audiophile. 90% of the population cant even notice. Should be able to do that with about $150. Super easy, especially if you have installed stereos before. The subwoofers will produce more bass firing towards the rear, but that's for max spl. Also, ported boxed are the absolute loudest boxes for bass as you can tune the specific frequency with the size and length of your port. I'm sure you already know that though. Dont forget to pull the mic pin on your bose harness.

I dont need the harness, I can splice those wires myself. But do you get good bass response to 30hz or below on your sub? If I cut into the front speaker wires am I going to be able to get deep bass? Or do I seriously need to go a different route?

Originally Posted by tecboy

You need pin 2/6 and 3/7 to tap off door speakers..GM calls the rear deck speakers subwoofers but they really are not...they are the exact same part number as the door 6x9's...


there are actually 3 plugs going in to bose amp....the door speakers are on the first on in the post i linked to...you will see in one of the other plugs the ANC mic connection...if you dont want to pull the door panels and dont care about cutting a couple of wires...you can disable the anc at the amp



as to the bass roll off....that starts about 60% volume....line level converter isnt going to fix that...wont make any difference tapping high level direct to amp vs high level speaker out of the bose amp to line level converter. The only way you are going to overcome the bass roll off is to do the PAC of NAV unit to tap the most50 signal from the head unit...before the bose amp manipulates the signal...you want more bass at lower levels...you will need to adjust your amp gains accordingly..


I agree...this Bose system can be challenging and expensive to upgrade depending on what you want to do...Adding a subwoofer is one of the easiest and cheapest things to do in order to improve the sound for most...i went the full system route...had to do a 3Sixty3 DSP to fix the Bose amp outputs....its easier now with the PAC and NAV units that let you tap in to the raw signal coming out of the head unit...but those werent around a couple of years ago when i upgrade mine

Pretty sure the 2LT (unless something changes for 2019) doesnt have ANC. If it does ill fix that. But there should be signal wires going INTO the bose amp for the front speakers, not just the output. So if I tap into the input wires, wouldnt that get me the full signal before the amp messes with it? Or am I thinking Bose is not as difficult as it really is?