[CalgaryZL1]

Originally Posted by arpad_m

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...9#post11384179

Thank you very much for the link!

[keep_hope_alive]

I've been thinking about this. While fuel is one option, intercepting the transmission park/neutral switch would prevent cranking entirely and won't throw a code. There are a few other ways to prevent a crank/start that won't throw a code. You have to assume that you will forget the super secret switch from time to time. I had a car stolen in 2016 and then added a hidden switch on the immobilizer circuit. It's a bummer that it defeats remote start ability. I didn't use it all of the time because I usually park in a garage or other safe location. As such, I commonly forgot to close the switch and would try to start the car. It didn't throw a MIL, but would crank with no start.

You don't want to just interrupt the starter relay (lifting the ground to that coil would be easy) because the ECM/BCM will assume a crank and send fuel. We want to safely prevent the car from starting.

From the service manual:

Keyless Start
When the Ignition mode switch is placed in the crank position, a discrete signal is supplied to the
body control module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the crank position. The BCM then
sends a serial data message to the engine control module (ECM) that crank has been requested.
The ECM then verifies that the brake pedal is applied and for manual transmission the clutch is
fully depressed or for automatic transmission is in Park/Neutral. If it is, the ECM then supplies 12
V to the control circuit of the starter relay. When this occurs, battery positive voltage is supplied
through the switch side of the crank relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.

Key Start
When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position, a discrete signal is supplied to the body control
module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the Start position. The BCM then sends a message to
the engine control module (ECM) notifying it that CRANK has been requested. The ECM verifies that the
transmission is in Park or Neutral. If it is, the ECM then supplies 12 V to the control circuit of the crank
relay. When this occurs, battery positive voltage is supplied through the switch side of the crank relay to
the S terminal of the starter solenoid.

[keep_hope_alive]

Schematic of the starting circuits with a few options noted. I have not tried intercepting this wire yet to see if it does what I think it does. I suspect the switch is closed in park/neutral and not open in park/neutral. This logic is important to verify.

[CalgaryZL1]

What about tapping into or jumping the throttle so it thinks it is doing the flood clearing procedure? I have no idea what the sequence is to initiate it on the throttle, a proximity sensor? Just a thought

[havelegs]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

He won't have a choice in 2026, but otherwise manual knock yourself out. But as mentioned Onstar can track, manage electrical, and disable your car if it is stolen

You do know that all they have to do to disable onstar is pull the fuse..?

[Need4Camaro]

Originally Posted by Dynamical

Too late. I have contacted big brother and you will be brought to the re-education center. You have not received the proper brainwashing. Repeat after me...2+2 = 5 and the government cares about your car being stolen. It's for your own good.

I wish I could 'like' posts on this forum.

[SuperSnake1972]

Just get The Club, maybe it will inconvience car thieves enough to leave your camaro alone.

[Cp Rooks]

I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to install a kill switch as well. If anyone manages to get a starter one done hit me up. Ironically I live next to St. Louis Area as well and there's nowhere near me for good installation. I'd rather do it myself anyway

[MyNameIs]

Kill switch?.... Nahhh....Eff all dat!

Oooops...I thought you meant the mandatory Gubmint mandate kill switch. Never mind.

[Megahurtz]

We install a hidden kill switch that requires human interaction to enable/disable. You actually have to flash the ECU to disable a specific ECU code so we pretty much only do it to the cars we tune. But I would say a majority of them go for the kill switch option. Works perfectly.

To the one saying no need for a kill switch since you have OnStar....that is a very flawed statement with the way these cars are being stolen now. The thieves are removing the rear side window and then using an OBD2 interface to plug into the car and allow it to be started, and then they disable Onstar as well within minutes. It only takes the these kind of thieves about 60 seconds to be gone with your car and another 120 seconds to cut onstar. OnStar would only be useful here if you actually saw the car being stolen as its happening and then got to an OnStar rep and they were able to connect to your car all in under 3 minutes. Very slim chance there.

With the kill switch, assuming the thieves never find it or know about it, will never be able to drive away with your car. The damage would be a cut out side rear window and maybe your key FOBs being deleted. But the good news is they wouldn't drive your car away. The bad news is you would likely need to have a window replaced and your key FOB's reprogramed. The kill switch won't stop someone with a tow truck taking your car though. But this is a smaller chance of happening vs the current way these cars are often being stolen.

If anyone in the Dallas/Fort Worth area is interested in a kill switch install, hit me up.

[Gunkk]

Originally Posted by RayKinStL

In every thread the idea of a kill switch seems to come up. ... Do you use one?

I do use this battery disconnect, but for parasitic drain, not anti-theft. It does however have the advantage that the car is completely unpowered and thus invisible to drive by RF scanners, onstar spying, etc. This one is not practical for use outside of a garage because with the convertible, the trunk needs to stay ajar to avoid lockout & door handle gymnastics.

But there are other ways to mount a more practical and elegant kill switch that's accessible outside the car, something like this. Most race-rated switches will have at least 4 posts (2 for power mains, 2 for spark/ECU/whatever-signal-you-want interrupt, etc.).

[fj5gtx]

Originally Posted by RayKinStL

So I follow this community as well as the reddit Camaro community. Been seeing a lot of posts lately about new Camaros (23 and 24s) being stolen. In every thread the idea of a kill switch seems to come up. Just curious about the thoughts on that around here? Do you use one?

I see a lot of people talk highly about Ravelco, but looking at their site, I can't seem to find any local seller/installer that I could get more info from on pricing and timing. I live in the Saint Louis area.

But yea, just want to start a conversation about car security and for those of us unlucky enough to have garages, what is being done, if anything, to extra insure the security of your vehicle.

Aftermarket car security hasn't really changed much for decades. Anything that the thief isn't expecting (not factory) will help stop the theft. "Layering" your security works best. Somehow advertising that its not going to be a factory setup might cause smarter thieves to pick easier prey.

As has been well documented on the internet, OnStar is easily disabled. The latest keyless locking systems are easily compromised by repeater style tech. The factory alarm is of no consequence to shocks or change in tilting.

If you want to protect your wheels from disappearing, a locking lugnut or two per wheel and a shock sensor added to your factory alarm trigger will likely deter.

If you want your alarm to sound if they start towing the car, wire a tilt sensor into your factory alarm trigger. The alarm won't stop them, but will alert you to the fact that its happening and you can pick your mitigation more timely.

If you want your alarm to sound if they smash your glass, get a glass break detector and wire that into your factory alarm trigger.

If you want to defeat the repeater style tech, put your keys in a faraday cage type device so that its signal cannot be picked up.

If you want to make it difficult for them to operate your car if they do get by the factory systems, you can install disconnects in fuel pump, starter, and ignition systems. This can be done many ways, from simply removing fuses, to cutting/splicing your harness to install switches. The types of switches you can use vary greatly from cheap mechanical pole switch to a frequency controlled switching relay.

You can DIY this stuff on the cheap, or go to an auto security shop and have them do their thing to the greatest extent of your budget. There are expensive gps systems you can add that enable geofence configurations and cell phone alerts for a monthly stipend. Sky is the limit on this stuff, and none of it is really brand new tech.

[Deacon Blues]

Originally Posted by Gunkk

I do use this battery disconnect, but for parasitic drain, not anti-theft. It does however have the advantage that the car is completely unpowered and thus invisible to drive by RF scanners, onstar spying, etc. This one is not practical for use outside of a garage because with the convertible, the trunk needs to stay ajar to avoid lockout & door handle gymnastics.

But there are other ways to mount a more practical and elegant kill switch that's accessible outside the car, something like this. Most race-rated switches will have at least 4 posts (2 for power mains, 2 for spark/ECU/whatever-signal-you-want interrupt, etc.).

Have been thinking about this exact thing. I have the battery out of the car anyways since it is tucked away for the winter (here in the northeast). Maybe I'll install one of these when the battery goes back in for springtime. The only thing is, in theory, wouldn't one of the screw-top disconnects work better since you could take that with you? With this model, they'd just have to pop the trunk and flip the switch.


My only concern is that I've heard both the late model Camaro and Corvettes can be finicky about battery and the relearn process can cause rough starts during the relearn period, but maybe that's just anecdotal and exaggerated?

[aa21]

Originally Posted by FlukeSS

Nope,

Absolutely not. Onstar can cut the power to your vehicle, and there is a level of human interaction involved, no need for a kill switch.

And what you don't know about the kill switch idea can be seen at this link:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=620938

And don't let some of the posts from the community detour you as to just how dangerous this idea is and can be.

It is not limited to just a kill switch, they will have the right to use listening devices from your cell phones, which is an invasion of privacy.

The determination of such kill switches are to be AI controlled, NOT on a case by case human touch.

If you had to swerve to avoid a squirrel crossing the road (Or in my case I had to hard swerve at 65 mph to avoid hitting a construction barrel that a construction truck threw across 3 lanes on the high way, and then swerve back to avoid a second construction barrel) The AI can trigger a drunk driving incident turn off your car at high speed, which can result in a crash, or even death.

As others have said in the above thread, I will disable that crap first chance I get. And because this so called bill passed already, all 2026+ vehicles will come equipped with such kill switches.

I keep hearing this on and on, but onstar is junk. Don’t listen to the marketing of it helping with the recovery of your car. My ‘22 SS was stolen by thieves and within 10 minutes they stopped somewhere and ripped out the GPS antenna. GM and onstar are well aware of it, and even told me about it when it happened. So no, onstar can easily be bypassed by most thieves today.