[glamcem]

Originally Posted by aa406079

I don't suppose you think 295/30R19 MICHELIN PSS would fit in the fronts?

They do t make a 285/30R19...

This will be my track setup. Although I like PSS tires a lot and might consider getting them on my OEM/Street wheels after the stockers they suck big time at the track :/ I think I saw your build thread, any particular reason for going with 35 sidewall?

Originally Posted by DenverTaco07

So no break in before tracking - just curious?

I've found it extremely difficult to keep it under 4K RPM just tootin around town. Everyone wants to race and it's fun to get it up to speed on the highway. I think I've had it at 4500 a couple times for short pulls, checking oil - no issues so far, still full at 800 miles.

No, the car had about 800 miles when I first got it (the very first used 1LE in the nation, lol) I ended up putting about ~500 miles on the street and 300 miles on the way to the track (From Seattle to Oregon) so by the time I drove there I passed the 1500 mile break in period

[glamcem]

I took my car to a dyno/tune shop (Drift Office - Auburn, WA) this weekend to get baseline numbers. Ambient temps were about 60 degrees.
Car is bone stock.

4th and 3rd gear pulls (it looks like 3rd gear pull was a bit off due to lack of the load). It did 419whp and 413lb/ft wtq on Dynojet




LT1 (stock) vs LS3 of a Gen 5 Camaro 1LE (header, intake and tune). They're almost identical except the low end torque advantage of the LT1 engine


and compared to my old Rotrex Supercharged BRZ !! as you can see you can easily fit a Stage 2 Evo into that gap between the two




and the video

[cdb95z28]

Great thread glamcem. I agree on the Raybestos ST43's i have them for the track on my '14 1LE. Lots of cold bite, I drove 'em on the street for a bit, a little noisy, but I kinda liked that, lol.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Great thread glamcem. I agree on the Raybestos ST43's i have them for the track on my '14 1LE. Lots of cold bite, I drove 'em on the street for a bit, a little noisy, but I kinda liked that, lol.

Thanks and yes noise is not an issue unlike my 13 Grandsport. I think. Possibly due to padlet design it was horrible. Not the case for the 1LE

[Ryephile]

Very fun dyno comparisons, thanks for posting! Enough people have been to Drift Office's dyno that it's kind of a known quantity in regards to the relative numbers.

It's still a bit of a shock to see the torque delta between your supercharged BRZ and the Camaro!

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Ryephile

Very fun dyno comparisons, thanks for posting! Enough people have been to Drift Office's dyno that it's kind of a known quantity in regards to the relative numbers.

It's still a bit of a shock to see the torque delta between your supercharged BRZ and the Camaro!

Right? the funny thing is after spending all that money and effort it becomes even more expensive than a stock 1LE.. and no matter what you do, it's impossible to fill that gap, 1LE is simply in a whole another league for sure

[glamcem]

I never really felt comfortable using a standard jack stands (Y shape) with the metal ZL1 addons Lift points because:

• I would like to stick to the GM's recommended jacking points
• I also find jacking from one side then the other is the safest method of jacking any car since the weight transfer is not on the rolling direction (forward or reverse)
• Since the gap between the pinch welds and the bottom of the rocker panel is very big it's very easy to damage the rocker panel ( I slightly bent the rocker panel even when I was really careful with the jacking pucks)

I ended up getting these high quality ESCO 6,000lbs jack stands since it looks a lot sturdier than those other standard type jack stands I tried in the past, they're light and with the rubber pad on the top it's a great way to use the ZL1addons lift point and not worrying about breaking/damaging the rocker panels and possibility of the slippage (metal to metal vs metal to rubber)..

See the below pictures for details:

They also take much less space.. pay attention to that triangle shape feet and the welds I think I can confidently jack the car and not to worry about slipping anything..



Jacking with Mag pad with Mag Puck (ZL1addons) in the middle pinch weld opening


then place the jack stands right under the Lift Points (also made by ZL1Addons)
This is rear : (notice how the lift points sit on the rubber pad on the jack stands, they're completely covered and centered which makes it easier to jack on the opposite side to put all 4 lift points on the jackstands )



and front

front from another angle


now I can go to the other side since one side is on jack stands (rear and front lift points) and repeat the same steps to put all 4 of them on the jack stands


Just for the added safety when I need to go under the car (for diff and tranny fluid change) I can use the second jack on the third/middle lift point but leave barely touching with the rubber jacking pucks (Amazon) so it wouldn't affect the balance of the other to but would be there for if all else fails

For simple bleed job, pad/rotor change (or anything that doesn't require me to go under the car) I will simply leave it on the jack stands


It's almost not touching


Voila!

[glamcem]

UPDATE: ZL1addons Wickerbill Stealth version arrived today and also ordered C7 Z06 OEM fender flares so that it will hopefully help on the front aero and reduce the amount of drag caused by wider wheels and tires up front.

I took the car to my mechanic today at 1900 miles:
Diff and Transmission fluids have been changed. He also installed the new longer OEM studs (for silverado) which helped me gaining back the thread on the wheel studs after using a 5mm spacer. While at it, he also grinded the strut arms that are rubbing the wheels . After that I gained plenty of clearance so I will no longer need to worry about the clearance with -2.2 camber with the Apex wheels

metal shavings on the differential drain plug :


since the rotors were removed I weighed them on the scale while they were working on the car. Our front rotors are really heavy :/ I will see how much the slotted OEM rotors that come with the OEM Brembo kit weigh



new longer OEM studs are installed and trimmed to be used with OEM lug nuts:


some grinding on the strut arms gave enough clearance with the wheels

and painted:

[cdb95z28]

Nice work!

How do the new wheels and tires "feel" compared to the OE setup. Turn in, steering feel, etc?

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Nice work!

How do the new wheels and tires "feel" compared to the OE setup. Turn in, steering feel, etc?

I didn't get a chance to try them yet as I have a scheduled event tomorrow and I didn't really push the car at the last event (since it was a flagger/instructor training event) and I want to use the OEM ones at least for once

I will report back as soon as I try them

[glamcem]

I finally had a chance to try the new wheels/tires combo at the track. The morning sessions were disaster due to inexperienced flaggers and red flags for every little incident. After the lunch break I could finally do a couple sessions with almost no traffic.

Trofeo R tires felt really good but it took longer to heat them up compared to OEM, RE71R and NT01 tires that I previously had a chance to try in similar conditions (~50 degrees). Once they did reach the temps though, it easily passed the ideal 34-35 psi hot temps and I saw the tire temps reached to 36-37 psi pretty quickly. After adjusting the tire temps (starting with 27 psi front and 26 psi cold temps in the rear) they felt a bit more stable at 34-35 psi after a few laps.



Next to a friend and his C6 Grand Sport



I noticed a very slight rubbing on the rear driver side tire. It most likely happened because the rears now stick out about 18mm and when I ran over the bump at the corkscrew the compression should have caused that. Since it's very light I think adding a -.1 or .2 camber in the rear will help curing the issue.


wear on the tires after the first event doesn't seem too bad, it's slightly more on the outer edges as expected with that amount of camber



and a video from the event,

[Corner carver]

I went back through the build thread, but didn't see it mentioned... What offset are those front wheels if you don't mind me asking? Looking to run a similar wheel/tire combo and that clearance looks tight!

[BradfordCamaro]

Originally Posted by Corner carver

I went back through the build thread, but didn't see it mentioned... What offset are those front wheels if you don't mind me asking? Looking to run a similar wheel/tire combo and that clearance looks tight!

22MM

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by Corner carver

I went back through the build thread, but didn't see it mentioned... What offset are those front wheels if you don't mind me asking? Looking to run a similar wheel/tire combo and that clearance looks tight!

Clearance was tight until the grinding and adding a 5mm spacer, it's not an issue now. With that said, I see you have a 2.0T so may I suggest you the below setup(19x9.5 all around)? If I had your car, I would definitely go with that wheel size for weight savings (both tires and wheels) and cost savings on consumables, and more importantly no clearance issues, modifying or adding spacer Wheel offsets are just perfect ! You should be able to fit 285/30/19 tires all around and when needed you may have the tire shop replace the front tires with rears
for rears :
https://www.apexraceparts.com/wheels...c-7-wheel.html

and front :
https://www.apexraceparts.com/wheels...c-7-wheel.html

Originally Posted by BradfordCamaro

22MM

Thanks