[fastball]

Originally Posted by vaspen

Thank you..
Lc7 and lc8i both have active bass restoration (I'm sure the dm810 and lc8i are virtually the same but ill look it up then)
So its better to just eliminate the center then ?
Does your future setup plan on running aftermarket dsp

No, I've never used a DSP in 20 years of car-fi installs and in my own cars. I'll be using the M650-GM from NAV-TV, just running the standard RCA outputs to my Pioneer and Alpine amps that are about 20 years old and replace the speakers with Boston Acoustics or equivalent if I can find them (I think aftermarket BA is out of business)

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

I mentioned a professional shop because you seemed to be lost at the mere mention of DSP

I was about to say there was no right or wrong way to do an install, but that's not true, there is definitely a wrong way to do it. But there are also multiple right ways.

You don't need to spend $7k on a sound system (although that's not even half of what I spent on my real SQ system in my CTS-V coupe) but there are components that you want to install if you actually want good quality sound. I imagine that what I consider good sound and what you consider good sound are clearly different. The fact that you have never used a DSP in a system means you have never had a tuned system, because you can't adequately tune a system without a DSP with DTA. Even if you select the correct speakers for on axis-/off axis imaging, you still run into the problem of distance. Sound is reaching each ear at different times from each speaker, you must delay that sound for closer speakers in order to have perfect staging and imaging.

So, as mentioned, you can definitely cut corners at every level (speaker choice, line out converter , no DSP, etcs. ) we have described the right way to do the install and deviation from that will not yield ideal results.

Good luck on the build!

That's great if you're running a system for high level competition, but for normal everyday driving it's really difficult to discern those kinds of details in a loud, moving, environment with no acoustics like a car.

You probably have a listening room in your house with properly aligned tube traps for exact acoustical tuning of your room with a system that has over $100,000 in high end equipment in it right? If you spend that kind of cash on a system in a car you're no doubt a high end audiophile.

I am installing the aftermarket system just to make it cleaner, louder, and a little more bite to the bass. For $2-3k you can make something a hundred times better than the factory Bose. I just think what you're spending yields just slightly better sound than that. Just my opinion. I don't like the sound of digitally manipulated systems. If the imaging is slightly off my system isn't going to keep me from hearing Paul McCartney's bass on Paperback Writer.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by fastball

No, I've never used a DSP in 20 years of car-fi installs and in my own cars. I'll be using the M650-GM from NAV-TV, just running the standard RCA outputs to my Pioneer and Alpine amps that are about 20 years old and replace the speakers with Boston Acoustics or equivalent if I can find them (I think aftermarket BA is out of business)



That's great if you're running a system for high level competition, but for normal everyday driving it's really difficult to discern those kinds of details in a loud, moving, environment with no acoustics like a car.

You probably have a listening room in your house with properly aligned tube traps for exact acoustical tuning of your room with a system that has over $100,000 in high end equipment in it right? If you spend that kind of cash on a system in a car you're no doubt a high end audiophile.

I am installing the aftermarket system just to make it cleaner, louder, and a little more bite to the bass. For $2-3k you can make something a hundred times better than the factory Bose. I just think what you're spending yields just slightly better sound than that. Just my opinion. I don't like the sound of digitally manipulated systems. If the imaging is slightly off my system isn't going to keep me from hearing Paul McCartney's bass on Paperback Writer.

you've been checking out my listening room at the house have you? lol

yes, I have been in love with music for over 20 years. Only after becoming an adult with a job could I truly indulge my audio fantasies.

you def do not need to break the bank to get the car cleaner, louder, with more bass. I highly recommend the M650-GM as it not only immediately creates cleaner louder and more bass given the digital output, but it will ensure that you don't have issues with loud door dings and warnings, or lack of them all together, or requiring removal of door mics, etc.

the problem, I have found, with audio, is that the once you develop an ear for listening, an improperly tuned system is like nails on a chalkboard. Every unintended double snare actually makes me physically uncomfortable. It is akin to a director trying to watch a poorly written movie. Even if he tries to simply enjoy it, he can't.

My system in the ZL1 is far from perfect. It is, afterall, a convertible. Impossible to get perfect sound in this setup. Tons of holes everywhere , impossible to seal everything up, so I didn't even try. If you look at the install, I didn't even use dynamat to reduce vibrations on the floorboard of the trunk.

But the CTS-V is as close as I can get to perfection in a vehicle. Tiled CLD on the outer door shells, complete CLD on the inner shell. layers of mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam. Easily added over 200lbs to the car just to reduce noise and vibrations .

[Yellow6thGen]

Your ZL1 is amazing. I just picked up my 18 Summit White Convertible.

I’m trying to track you build. And everything you are doing.

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

you've been checking out my listening room at the house have you? lol

yes, I have been in love with music for over 20 years. Only after becoming an adult with a job could I truly indulge my audio fantasies.

you def do not need to break the bank to get the car cleaner, louder, with more bass. I highly recommend the M650-GM as it not only immediately creates cleaner louder and more bass given the digital output, but it will ensure that you don't have issues with loud door dings and warnings, or lack of them all together, or requiring removal of door mics, etc.

the problem, I have found, with audio, is that the once you develop an ear for listening, an improperly tuned system is like nails on a chalkboard. Every unintended double snare actually makes me physically uncomfortable. It is akin to a director trying to watch a poorly written movie. Even if he tries to simply enjoy it, he can't.

My system in the ZL1 is far from perfect. It is, afterall, a convertible. Impossible to get perfect sound in this setup. Tons of holes everywhere , impossible to seal everything up, so I didn't even try. If you look at the install, I didn't even use dynamat to reduce vibrations on the floorboard of the trunk.

But the CTS-V is as close as I can get to perfection in a vehicle. Tiled CLD on the outer door shells, complete CLD on the inner shell. layers of mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam. Easily added over 200lbs to the car just to reduce noise and vibrations .

[fastball]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

you've been checking out my listening room at the house have you? lol

yes, I have been in love with music for over 20 years. Only after becoming an adult with a job could I truly indulge my audio fantasies.

you def do not need to break the bank to get the car cleaner, louder, with more bass. I highly recommend the M650-GM as it not only immediately creates cleaner louder and more bass given the digital output, but it will ensure that you don't have issues with loud door dings and warnings, or lack of them all together, or requiring removal of door mics, etc.

the problem, I have found, with audio, is that the once you develop an ear for listening, an improperly tuned system is like nails on a chalkboard. Every unintended double snare actually makes me physically uncomfortable. It is akin to a director trying to watch a poorly written movie. Even if he tries to simply enjoy it, he can't.

My system in the ZL1 is far from perfect. It is, afterall, a convertible. Impossible to get perfect sound in this setup. Tons of holes everywhere , impossible to seal everything up, so I didn't even try. If you look at the install, I didn't even use dynamat to reduce vibrations on the floorboard of the trunk.

But the CTS-V is as close as I can get to perfection in a vehicle. Tiled CLD on the outer door shells, complete CLD on the inner shell. layers of mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam. Easily added over 200lbs to the car just to reduce noise and vibrations .

In a previous life I was into higher end audio. My home theater pre-amp is an Adcom and my power amps are Audio Source, all mono-bridged, into Pinnacle speakers and a BIC sub.

Not really high end like Macintosh or B&W or the exotics like MBL, but much better than the crap sold at Best Buy and Walmart.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by fastball

In a previous life I was into higher end audio. My home theater pre-amp is an Adcom and my power amps are Audio Source, all mono-bridged, into Pinnacle speakers and a BIC sub.

Not really high end like Macintosh or B&W or the exotics like MBL, but much better than the crap sold at Best Buy and Walmart.

now you're talking my language

Originally Posted by Yellow6thGen

Your ZL1 is amazing. I just picked up my 18 Summit White Convertible.

I’m trying to track you build. And everything you are doing.

Thank you! As mentioned earlier, you don't have to break the bank on your system. Cost can be saved using different drivers and amplifiers, but I am convinced that, to do an install correctly on this vehicle, the M650-GM will make life much easier and is crucial to the build. Please don't hack pre-amp wires trying to find signals, which may or may not need to be summed in order to get the full audible spectrum.

[SomeGeoffGuy]

I have a question about the M650-GM since a lot of people in this thread seem to be experienced with it - Can you use it to just pull a signal before the amp to run a subwoofer? That is what I would like to do on my convertible. There just hasn't been a way to do that cleanly yet.

FWIW, I like my noise cancellation too and would prefer to leave the stock system intact for now. After driving through the big hills in PA without Noise Cancellation, I have come to find the drone pretty annoying.

-Geoff

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by SomeGeoffGuy

I have a question about the M650-GM since a lot of people in this thread seem to be experienced with it - Can you use it to just pull a signal before the amp to run a subwoofer? That is what I would like to do on my convertible. There just hasn't been a way to do that cleanly yet.

FWIW, I like my noise cancellation too and would prefer to leave the stock system intact for now. After driving through the big hills in PA without Noise Cancellation, I have come to find the drone pretty annoying.

-Geoff

Don't quote me, but this should be perfectly fine to use for that. It is a rather expensive way to go about doing that, but Yes. The harness used in connecting the device is a T harness, so signals pass through the unit, and back to the OEM amp (which must remain hooked up). You would simply utilize only the Subwoofer output on the M650, and run that to you amplifier. Keep the OEM speaker wires intact at the amplifier and you're golden. It even has a toggle witch that allows you to use a separate sub-bass controller to control subwoofer bass on the fly, or control the bass signals going to the entire speaker system.

see pages 3 and 4 on the manual
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT838/m650-gm.html

[SomeGeoffGuy]

Originally Posted by drfeelgood

Don't quote me, but this should be perfectly fine to use for that. It is a rather expensive way to go about doing that, but Yes. The harness used in connecting the device is a T harness, so signals pass through the unit, and back to the OEM amp (which must remain hooked up). You would simply utilize only the Subwoofer output on the M650, and run that to you amplifier. Keep the OEM speaker wires intact at the amplifier and you're golden. It even has a toggle witch that allows you to use a separate sub-bass controller to control subwoofer bass on the fly, or control the bass signals going to the entire speaker system.

see pages 3 and 4 on the manual
https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT838/m650-gm.html

Awesome - thank you! I am probably one of the few people who like both the stock exhaust and noise cancellation, so I am willing to pay more to keep them all.

Now I just need someone to start mass producing the sub box for a convertible...

-Geoff

[ronjongreen]

For anyone that has installed the M650-GM into their Camaro...looking for advise. I recently purchased the M650 and am attempting to plug into the OEM radio tuner as specified in the instructions. I originally thought this was the HMI module but am realizing that the Radio Tuner is most likely the module that is vertically mounted on the right side of the passenger side behind the glove box. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct module to plug into and if so how were you able to access it? Ive got the whole lower tray behind the glove box dropped (holds the HMI Nav module and such) but cannot find an easy way to get to the back of the suspected radio tuner module with out completely disassembling the dash. I'm very handy but I'm just trying to avoid pulling apart the whole dash to verify/get to this module.

[drfeelgood]

Originally Posted by ronjongreen

For anyone that has installed the M650-GM into their Camaro...looking for advise. I recently purchased the M650 and am attempting to plug into the OEM radio tuner as specified in the instructions. I originally thought this was the HMI module but am realizing that the Radio Tuner is most likely the module that is vertically mounted on the right side of the passenger side behind the glove box. Can anyone confirm that this is the correct module to plug into and if so how were you able to access it? Ive got the whole lower tray behind the glove box dropped (holds the HMI Nav module and such) but cannot find an easy way to get to the back of the suspected radio tuner module with out completely disassembling the dash. I'm very handy but I'm just trying to avoid pulling apart the whole dash to verify/get to this module.

That is the right spot, passenger side. I am not sure how to access it, my audio installer did that.

https://www.instagram.com/fsaudio