Amplifier question with bose system adding amps
 

I'm trying to figure out the best way to run memphis 4ohm speakers

for all 9 speakers lol
So i need to figure out ohms as I'm adding resistance on speakers and want to keep that mid range boom I know going from 2 to 4 ohms on a 2 ohm amp will cut power drastically if I remember right

The best rout I'm thinking is take the output from the bose amp, and tap that into a external amp that can handle that many channels and from that amp back out to the speakers through the factory harness
If that makes any sense :) lol
I'm not too familiar with sound processors and would like to keep all functions on the radio

Any recommendations on amps that can handle that many channels ?
Or would I need to go one 5 channel and a 4 channel amp
Amps would be hidden in back left quarter
Also anyone know what connector the car uses I'd like to maby make a inline connector and where I can buy them

a lot going on here. There are a couple of ways to do this:


Amplifier: 5ch + 4 ch, or 8 ch + 1 ch
I do not know of a 9 channel amplifer
The 8 channel amplifier (JL audio) above is a class d, which is less than ideal compared to a class AB or true Class A amplifier . so that said, I would go with a 5ch + 4ch

Speakers: you have already chosen Memphis drivers

Sound processor and DTA: in my opinion, its the only way to do this the right way. You don't HAVE to use a sound processor, but when you are spending money on a system, you may as well do it right. There are a number to choose from (JL Twk 88, Rockford 360.3, hertx H8, Audison Bitone). I personally have the bitone in my CTS-V and the H8 in my Camaro

Connection: imo, the best method to connect your factory headunit , to DSP, to amplifiers is with the NAV-TV’s M650-GM processor. https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT838/m650-gm.html

Will allow you to maintain all factory sounds, door chimes, onstar, and back up warnings etc (at a normal volume) without removing OEM door microphones. The only thing you loose is on the fly control front to rear fade. But if you are setting up a perfect system you shouldn't need it.

I just finished a similar upgrade on my Camaro http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=513195 with many of the above components.

I don't have rear deck speakers and am running a 2 way setup up front (tweeter and midbass passive) and one subwoofer for a simple 7 speaker setup. But I may add two more speakers up front for a 3 way setup, running the tweets and midranges passive together, then woofers active, rear fill and sub active as well. This is a quasi-3 way front stage, but sounds great in my CTS-V.

Audison Bitone
 

I have had all of mine replaced with Hertz mille pro, alpine amps, and custom sub box with an Alpine sub. The H8 is not a good choice as it can only accept 4 inputs. The bit one however can accept 8 so you can keep your chimes, fade control, cross traffic alert etc. The rear speaker input is required to keep some of these alerts. The only speaker I did not change is the center channel. Mine is a vert so I do not have the other two speakers in the rear deck lid either. I am currently using an Alpine PDX-V9 5 channel amp for the whole system and it sounds great but I am going to change it out to a PDX-M12 and a PDX-F6. That being said you could use a stacked configuration with a PDX-V9 and PDX-F6/F4 and you would have 9 channels available on for the sub(500W) and 8 more for everything else. BTW I originally installed the H8 and discovered I had no more cross traffic alert or back up warnings of any kind.

You don't need 8 inputs, with the Nav-TV piece, you have a digital output from the nav TV to digital input on the H8. My system was installed correctly and I still have all cross alerts, door chimes, and back up warnings.

Again, I have both processors installed into two different vehicles. They both work flawlessly in terms of function, but the H8 has LESS BUGS than the known and well documented problems with the bitone. Once you dial the system in, you shouldn't be touching any of the vehicles settings (fade, EQ, etc) as that completely destroys the staging anyway.

So it goes from remove factory bose amp and plug the new processor into harness that supplys rca outs or high out for amps ? Then amp back to harness outs ?
The processor thing is tricky as I've NEVER touched them

I'm thinking 2 lc7i converters and 2 multi channel 4 ohm amps
If all the speaker outs are at the bose amp in the trunk I'm really trying to avoid having to change that out or mess with that part
Not sure if I'm making sense to anyone haha
In short I don't want to mess with the digital half lol
Edit - until i just saw the cost of the lc7i in its own haha options are still open but in simplicity 2 of those and external amps would be easy just a lot of wires

I highly suggest you have a professional shop do this

I'm more than capable... again I just haven't messed with dsp stuff yet its new territory for me never had a car with it before
I'm also not about to drop 7g like you have done

You are going to need some sort of DSP if you are going to tap the Bose amp speaker outs...each speaker out is crossed over at the amp...the Bose amp changes the speaker outputs once you start getting above 55-60% volume on the radio. You have to use a DSP to combine all the appropriate outputs and flatten out the range. I ended up going with a Rockford 3 Sixty.3 for my system as it also has a 1/3 octave eq built in. It also has a remote volume level so i can run the system turned down most of the time and just turn up when i need it. Running at full volume on the RF unit...the turn signal , backup warning and chimes are way too loud...

Really wish the NAV-TV’s M650-GM processor was available when i did my system. Would have made things a little easier than keeping Bose amp...

this is my install...spent about $4500 installed...

http://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497975

Sorry no vaspen, you must keep the stock Bose amp of the Camaro will have issues, but the M650-GM offers the highest sound quality possible IMO, I was going to go with the ic7 but now knowing that to get a flat signal the M650-GM was the best way but $850 for that. It depends on what expectations you have for your sound system. For me, I wanted loud but clean sound BUT with POWERFULL BASS but not glass shattering for my 2LT. Christopher

Lc8i 8 channels of input\out that can take all the channels and cross everything over for back to full range low out for rca so all outs have full range no matter what and has active bass restoration and using the external amps to control hi/ low/ full filter.
And could run a sound processor between that and the amps
I just feel there's a way to do it without spending serious change like you all have done 1500 would be my max I'd invest into this i am more geared to performance than stereo
In what way dose the bose amp change sound signal on the output side at mid way (like I know it probably pull bass out to save speaker life )


Should be 18 wires on output side going directly to the speakers those wires is where I would tap/convert 4ohm/amped

There's a few people on the forum who've upgraded their entire Bose system if you search for them.

From what I've read, the Cliffs Notes version is this:

1. You need to keep the factory Bose amp/processor because that is actually where the processor for fade/balance and all other head unit operations are.

2. Run a processor from the Bose amp to your aftermarket amps. The lc7 is good, but if you have the extra few bucks the processor to get is the DM-810. This is what I'll be installing in spring. It can take 8 channels of any level and crossed over amp/pre-amp signal and give you 10 full bandwidth channels. Also, the factory Bose rolls the bass off as you turn the volume louder. The DM-810 eliminates roll off and I'm not sure the lc7 does.

3. Everything I've read about the center channel is that it really messes with the imaging when going aftermarket. People who've removed the center speaker have all noted vastly improved imaging and overall sound quality. So I'm removing my center speaker completely and not replacing it.

Thank you..
Lc7 and lc8i both have active bass restoration (I'm sure the dm810 and lc8i are virtually the same but ill look it up then)
So its better to just eliminate the center then ?
Does your future setup plan on running aftermarket dsp

I mentioned a professional shop because you seemed to be lost at the mere mention of DSP

I was about to say there was no right or wrong way to do an install, but that's not true, there is definitely a wrong way to do it. But there are also multiple right ways.

You don't need to spend $7k on a sound system (although that's not even half of what I spent on my real SQ system in my CTS-V coupe) but there are components that you want to install if you actually want good quality sound. I imagine that what I consider good sound and what you consider good sound are clearly different. The fact that you have never used a DSP in a system means you have never had a tuned system, because you can't adequately tune a system without a DSP with DTA. Even if you select the correct speakers for on axis-/off axis imaging, you still run into the problem of distance. Sound is reaching each ear at different times from each speaker, you must delay that sound for closer speakers in order to have perfect staging and imaging.

So, as mentioned, you can definitely cut corners at every level (speaker choice, line out converter , no DSP, etcs. ) we have described the right way to do the install and deviation from that will not yield ideal results.

Good luck on the build!