[thescreensavers]

So recently people have been having their half shafts fall out well its a good thing to check. Even mine were not torqued to spec, Its relatively easy to do.

You are going to need a

• E12 Socket
• Torque Wrench
• Breaker Bar
• Paint pen(optional)

1. Engage E-Brake
2. Put Wheel chocks on front tire
3. Lift up rear of your car
4. With your E12 socket and your torque wrench set it to 45 ft/lb, reason we are going a bit higher is to see if they are loose. (If they are only set to 37 ft/lb they will turn)
5. If the bolt head moves get your breaker bar out and rotate about 45 degrees
6. Repeat for the rest of the 6 bolts per axle.




7.Paint pen the new position of the bolt heads so you can tell in the future if they back out.

[EagleRS]

I appreciate the awesome info and super clear instructions. My question to you is if I have a Lt model with the 4cyl. Auto 8spd. do I need to check this also? I don't mind checking it but didn't know if the non SS models were affected.

Thanks for your insight,

EagleRS

[KMPrenger]

Very good information...thanks for posting.

[Sub]

Thanks for posting.

We should start a "on your first visit to dealer, check these parts" thread.

[LtColumbo]

Doesn't 37lbft + 45 degrees equal some specific lbft torque? I mean, 45 degrees is also sort of a guess, isn't it? I've never fully understood this sort of torque spec. (I mean, I understand how to do it, but I don't quite get how it is "better.")

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by EagleRS

I appreciate the awesome info and super clear instructions. My question to you is if I have a Lt model with the 4cyl. Auto 8spd. do I need to check this also? I don't mind checking it but didn't know if the non SS models were affected.

Thanks for your insight,

EagleRS

Hey EagleRS unfortunately I am not sure about that. It could be yours is the same but since the 4pot is pushing less torque though the drive train its not so much an issue though it could happen in the future potentially.

Originally Posted by LtColumbo

Doesn't 37lbft + 45 degrees equal some specific lbft torque? I mean, 45 degrees is also sort of a guess, isn't it? I've never fully understood this sort of torque spec.

Not quite, it will be higher than 37 ft/lb though obvoulsly.

Without getting into details torque + angle of turn is more accurate than torque alone which is why its used in critical areas (head bolts) it seems GM uses it in a lot more places than other manufactures though. It is more of a pain to do but the joint is tightened better.

[LtColumbo]

[QUOTE=Not quite, it will be higher than 37 ft/lb though obvoulsly.

Without getting into details torque + angle of turn is more accurate than torque alone which is why its used in critical areas (head bolts) it seems GM uses it in a lot more places than other manufactures though. It is more of a pain to do but the joint is tightened better.[/QUOTE]


So how does one know EXACTLY 45 degrees when under the vehicle or with limited work space or visibility? Is 44 or 47 OK in this critical spec? It may be more accurate IF you can clearly see 45 degrees and be consistent, but just seems that it shouldn't really be "that critical" in the first place.

[Megahurtz]

Originally Posted by LtColumbo

So how does one know EXACTLY 45 degrees when under the vehicle or with limited work space or visibility? Is 44 or 47 OK in this critical spec? It may be more accurate IF you can clearly see 45 degrees and be consistent, but just seems that it shouldn't really be "that critical" in the first place.

Pretty sure it isn't going to be perfect. But usually you use a marker and put a line on the bolt after you reach the TQ specified. Then you use the mark on the bolt head to move it approx 45 degrees. If you're super worried I suppose you can break out your protractor.

[thescreensavers]

Originally Posted by LtColumbo

So how does one know EXACTLY 45 degrees when under the vehicle or with limited work space or visibility? Is 44 or 47 OK in this critical spec? It may be more accurate IF you can clearly see 45 degrees and be consistent, but just seems that it shouldn't really be "that critical" in the first place.

They do sell angle gauges, https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4554-Driv.../dp/B003UMRXSW

But like megahurtz mentioned you just do the best you can. If you want you can mark the bolt and surface at 12 and 3 oclock (or 3,6 or 9,12..etc) and then move the 12 oclock line in between (12 and 3) . I did a rough estimate with my 3/8 breaker bar.

[Eric SS]

Question, if these were already torqued from the factory including the 45 degrees, don't you risk bolt failure by torquing again to 45 degrees if the TTY bolts have already been stretched? Or are these not TTY but still using an angle spec?

[vtirocz]

Originally Posted by Eric SS

Question, if these were already torqued from the factory including the 45 degrees, don't you risk bolt failure by torquing again to 45 degrees if the TTY bolts have already been stretched? Or are these not TTY but still using an angle spec?

I think you are exactly right. I meant to post the same thing yesterday.

They appear to be TTY bolts if GM specifies replacing them. I would NOT retorque them for a long term solution. Also, this may compromise the Loctite bond.

[LibertyHill]

That's why I thought Loctite 290 might be a good option if the paint marks are still aligned:

Loctite 290 Wicking Grade MIL-SPEC Medium-High Strength Green Threadlocker is a medium-strength wicking threadlocker for pre-assembled bolts up to 1/2". Penetrates threads by capillary action. Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Seals welds and porous metal parts. Applications include instrumentation screws, electrical connectors and set screws and also seals porosities in welds and metal parts. Mil-S-46163A Type III, Grade R. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-High-.../dp/B000P1FY6O

I'm going this route if mine are still secure since it looks like the Loctite may have been applied too far up the threads on the original bolts.

[SS 1LE]

Originally Posted by LibertyHill

That's why I thought Loctite 290 might be a good option if the paint marks are still aligned:

Loctite 290 Wicking Grade MIL-SPEC Medium-High Strength Green Threadlocker is a medium-strength wicking threadlocker for pre-assembled bolts up to 1/2". Penetrates threads by capillary action. Secures set screws and other assemblies after settings are completed. Seals welds and porous metal parts. Applications include instrumentation screws, electrical connectors and set screws and also seals porosities in welds and metal parts. Mil-S-46163A Type III, Grade R. NSF/ANSI 61 Certified.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-High-.../dp/B000P1FY6O

I'm going this route if mine are still secure since it looks like the Loctite may have been applied too far up the threads on the original bolts.

Damn, so you apply this stuff on the already secured bolts and it "seeps" down the threads?

If so, then I agree, if your bolts are all aligned and tight, some of this stuff may be the the best bet.

[LibertyHill]

Originally Posted by SS 1LE

Damn, so you apply this stuff on the already secured bolts and it "seeps" down the threads?

If so, then I agree, if your bolts are all aligned and tight, some of this stuff may be the the best bet.

Yup its thinner than water. Works very well on 4mm and smaller screws on hobby stuff too.