[PoloCamaroZL1]

2022 ZL1 Tremec with 3800 miles. Changed the oil at 500, then 1500. Also did Diff fluid and transmission fluid at 1500 for cheap insurance. (GM fluids/AC Delco)

I didn't see any loss of oil at 500 or 1500 miles (albeit thats only 500, and 1k mile intervals) that's following the break in procedure. I did lose just under 1 quart after harder driving and hotter conditions over the course of 2200 miles

After checking the oil at 3700, I just noticed the car was low and showing at the very bottom of the cross hatched area. I added just under 1 quart and it shows at the very top of the cross hatched area. It was about 106° for a week and I drove it almost everyday. This is in Northern CA

I daily my zl1 and leave auto rev match on and engine break often. usually 3-4k rpm is where I am but i definitely drive it hard from time to time (I don't want to baby it)

It seems like the consensus is our cars tend to burn some oil, especially depending on driving habits and weather/road conditions.

My guess is, the mechanic who told you that it was 2 quarts low, was probably rounding up, making people like us panic. It is hard to distinguish EXACTLY how much oil was was consumed and needed. 1-2 quarts per 6k miles during the engine being new is negligible.

If you're still paranoid (I totally understand), I'd take it to a certified mechanic you trust or a Chevy Dealership and have them start logging it for you. (get lift pads)

I know this was 2 years ago but I wanna know how this went!

[Drnick]

I’m always suspicious about dealership,that’s why I change oil myself, I don’t care about
The freebies, and considering I was a service manager for a Honda dealership in the past
I know what shenanigans they pull,so my advice to those that choosy to “Trust”!?
Check where the tech gets oil for service, from the parts dept (which is qt container)
Or an overhead feed from a drum (yeah I know that’s oil school, but still in use)
Most newer dealerships do qts, so check there “Garbage”! That will truly tell you
What oil there using! And yes, that sounds ridiculous, but for anal retentive, and for
The person who owns an $80k car, don’t trust anyone!!

[NG329]

I've dealt with this with two ZL1s.

The car isn't actually burning oil. The condition is oil 'blow-by' where it's seeping past the piston rings. Running the car hard resolves this to some extent as the piston rings mate with the cylinder walls over time.

In my 2019, I burned 2-3 quarts every 1,000 miles. After riding it very hard for about 7k miles I got it down to 1 quart every 1,000 miles.

Running it hard creates pressure in the combustion chamber that forces the piston rings into the cylinder walls and eventually filling all of the microscopic gaps in the mating surfaces. (hope I explained that correctly).

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by NG329

I've dealt with this with two ZL1s.

The car isn't actually burning oil. The condition is oil 'blow-by' where it's seeping past the piston rings. Running the car hard resolves this to some extent as the piston rings mate with the cylinder walls over time.

Yep - GM isn't known for good sealing engines, especially under boost

If you're not running a (quality) catch can, the oil becomes diluted/loses viscosity and the problem becomes even worse, it's a snowball effect

Get your oil analyzed, you might be surprised at the gas/contaminant dilution

[rlarsen462]

Interestingly my 2019 even with 4000 miles and a hard (100F) 8 hour track day never burned/blew by a single drop of oil...it literally never moved on the dipstick.

Given all the other build issues I am seeing with my 2022, I do not have confidence my experience will be the same with this one...never should have sold my 2019.

[NG329]

Originally Posted by rlarsen462

Interestingly my 2019 even with 4000 miles and a hard (100F) 8 hour track day never burned/blew by a single drop of oil...it literally never moved on the dipstick.

Given all the other build issues I am seeing with my 2022, I do not have confidence my experience will be the same with this one...never should have sold my 2019.

Unfortunately, running synthetic oils exacerbates the problem. Back in the old days we avoided running synthetic oil until the engine was fully broken in.

It needs to be done correctly within the first 4k-5k miles otherwise it could be problematic for the life of the car. Sure you can improve it, but it may never fully go away. You really need to be full throttle in 4th and 5th quite often and allowing the car to engine brake before you start to see improvement.

[ZX-10R]

Originally Posted by NG329

Unfortunately, running synthetic oils exacerbates the problem. Back in the old days we avoided running synthetic oil until the engine was fully broken in.

That's outdated thinking not based on actual science - I've seen plenty (hundreds) of bike engines (and auto applications as well) broken in on synthetic (factory fill) with no issues at all, it's all in HOW you break it in - too many people drive like a P**sy, cruise down the highway at 60 mph when a relatively hard breakin with bursts of throttle is required to seat the rings

[rlarsen462]

Originally Posted by NG329

Unfortunately, running synthetic oils exacerbates the problem. Back in the old days we avoided running synthetic oil until the engine was fully broken in.

It needs to be done correctly within the first 4k-5k miles otherwise it could be problematic for the life of the car. Sure you can improve it, but it may never fully go away. You really need to be full throttle in 4th and 5th quite often and allowing the car to engine brake before you start to see improvement.

Eh, I realized this was always the wisdom, and when I used to build engines in the 90's I would always use conventional for break in but mostly because it was cheap and I was changing it multiple times in the first 1000 or less miles.

I think it's much more important to seat the rings properly in the first <50-100 miles by beating the shit out of the car and doing LOTS of heavy engine breaking and varying the RPM.

I have literally never followed manufacturer guidelines for break-in and I've always experience similar oil loss (or lack thereof) to my 2019, and dynos have always been at the top of expected HP.

[PoloCamaroZL1]

Originally Posted by Drnick

I’m always suspicious about dealership,that’s why I change oil myself, I don’t care about
The freebies, and considering I was a service manager for a Honda dealership in the past
I know what shenanigans they pull,so my advice to those that choosy to “Trust”!?
Check where the tech gets oil for service, from the parts dept (which is qt container)
Or an overhead feed from a drum (yeah I know that’s oil school, but still in use)
Most newer dealerships do qts, so check there “Garbage”! That will truly tell you
What oil there using! And yes, that sounds ridiculous, but for anal retentive, and for
The person who owns an $80k car, don’t trust anyone!!

I completely agree with this. I have taken mine in for some simple warranty work (seat lever housing on top of seat was loose and did not require a lift to fix) but other than that, I want to do it all myself. Lift pads if you need to jack the car up, Race ramps for easy maintenance like oil changes.

But I would say the owner will be the best judge and jury on the car. Do regular oil changes, check oil every 500miles or so, get an oil sample and test... yall get it.

[PoloCamaroZL1]

Originally Posted by rlarsen462

Interestingly my 2019 even with 4000 miles and a hard (100F) 8 hour track day never burned/blew by a single drop of oil...it literally never moved on the dipstick.

Given all the other build issues I am seeing with my 2022, I do not have confidence my experience will be the same with this one...never should have sold my 2019.

I'm curious as to the other issues you are having with your 2022 as we have the same model year. I know oil pump issues have been resolved.

What are you dealing with currently?

[rlarsen462]

Originally Posted by PoloCamaroZL1

I'm curious as to the other issues you are having with your 2022 as we have the same model year. I know oil pump issues have been resolved.

What are you dealing with currently?

Mainly just body panel and fitment issues, some rattles, etc. Just not nearly as "tight" as my 2019 was.

[PoloCamaroZL1]

Originally Posted by rlarsen462

Mainly just body panel and fitment issues, some rattles, etc. Just not nearly as "tight" as my 2019 was.

That's fair. seems with labor and parts shortages, most vehicles made in the last couple years aren't as "put together" as years prior to the pandemic.

[wakespeak]

Keep a fresh air filter on the car. This engine sucks in huge amounts of air and the filter can affect the internal pressures in my experience.

[ZR1-OK]

Originally Posted by Rayvan

You just need to check your oil more often. The dealer will likely do nothing, if it's only a quart every 3000 miles....

Yes - I only have 1600 miles and I’ve checked the level at least 3 times.

Doesn’t use a drop even after a buck fifty in Mexico

The reason for more frequent checking is so you don’t end up 2 quarts down before you even notice or even worse burn up the motor