[Sakudog]

Alright guys, installed and here is my feedback.

First impressions:

The car has a more direct attitude when taking a set, you point it, it goes. The front end feels softer now than ever before, so I know as a track rat I've firmed up the rear end. The car will likely benefit from an adjustable front bar and adjustable rear control arms.

The car feels much closer to my friends 1LE, my car has 1LE size wheels and 3R tires, eibachs all my driving was done in PTM 5 or RACE. However, it still feels like mag ride, which is a good thing to me, the spoolvalve just beat you down on the street.

The car WILL need an alignment because the rear cradle did move a tiny bit out of my index, but nothing drastic, but you don't want to threshold break a car without perfect alignment...however threshold on the street and hard acceleration showed the same general alignment as before. (granted we didn't touch the front, but typically the rear dances around if it's wrong and it did not)


On the Instructions:
After calling BMR, there are some things missing that I'd like them to add.

Between Step 1 & 2, you should index mark the cradle mount positions on the front and rear locations. You can do this several different ways, but if BMR was to raise the price of the kit by $5 and include a sticker kit to do this they would be on another level with quality. I did my own index and got it within 2mm on reinstall, close enough to probably not need a full alignment and for sure the rear cradle is located close enough to be good to go after my next alignment.

STEP 2: DOES NOT mention that you need to remove a T20 bolt to free the front cradle bracket from the inner liner. Yeah it's obvious when you get in there, but you have to get up, go back to your toolbox, etc. etc. Let's get that added to STEP 2 as to what you need to do.

STEP 4 SHOULD mention that even though the Derlin bushing won't easily slip into position, you can force it into the proper position because the factory bushing are so incredibly soft. My point here is, I had to figure this out on my own and a little more description here would have been fantastic.

STEP 8: Same as STEP 4, you can muscle things into the appropriate place without going bonkers on lowering the cradle.

STEP 9: Should say, get a lot of grease on the bullets and in the bushing. It should also say, get a small sledge hammer to tap them all into place, at an equal pace.

STEP 10: Should add that you may need to use something like a short 2x4 board an another jack to raise the cradle mount point ever so slightly to get the new configuration started. That bottom washer is THICK, it puts the bolt just out of reach even with the bullets slammed all the way into place. A BALLER move from BMR would be to include 2 LONGER bolts that would not only "SET" the cradle in this step, but also suck in the BULLETS so you don't need to use a hammer. (light bulbs going off over at BMR)

Between STEP 9 and 10, we should talk about checking the INDEX of the cradle and using something to move the cradle around ever so slightly IF needed. I do think you can get it with-in a few MM of the original position you just need to align the car, main thing is you don't want it WAY WAY out of position, not sure what that tolerance is but it's worth nothing you want it as CLOSE as possible and then you want a full alignment.


BOTTOM LINE

This is WORTH the time to do if you track the car in anyway, it really firms up the rear cradle in a way only sold bushings can do or PRESSING in new derlin bushings which is really time consuming.

Congrats to BMR for an innovative approach here, I'm impressed with the approach, results and cost.

Today, my car eats up 991.1/2 GT3s on COTA, I think this will only helps my lap times and enjoyment on the track.

PS: NVH is not even measurably different.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by Sakudog

Alright guys, installed and here is my feedback.

First impressions:

The car has a more direct attitude when taking a set, you point it, it goes. The front end feels softer now than ever before, so I know as a track rat I've firmed up the rear end. The car will likely benefit from an adjustable front bar and adjustable rear control arms.

The car feels much closer to my friends 1LE, my car has 1LE size wheels and 3R tires, eibachs all my driving was done in PTM 5 or RACE. However, it still feels like mag ride, which is a good thing to me, the spoolvalve just beat you down on the street.

The car WILL need an alignment because the rear cradle did move a tiny bit out of my index, but nothing drastic, but you don't want to threshold break a car without perfect alignment...however threshold on the street and hard acceleration showed the same general alignment as before. (granted we didn't touch the front, but typically the rear dances around if it's wrong and it did not)


On the Instructions:
After calling BMR, there are some things missing that I'd like them to add.

Between Step 1 & 2, you should index mark the cradle mount positions on the front and rear locations. You can do this several different ways, but if BMR was to raise the price of the kit by $5 and include a sticker kit to do this they would be on another level with quality. I did my own index and got it within 2mm on reinstall, close enough to probably not need a full alignment and for sure the rear cradle is located close enough to be good to go after my next alignment.

STEP 2: DOES NOT mention that you need to remove a T20 bolt to free the front cradle bracket from the inner liner. Yeah it's obvious when you get in there, but you have to get up, go back to your toolbox, etc. etc. Let's get that added to STEP 2 as to what you need to do.

STEP 4 SHOULD mention that even though the Derlin bushing won't easily slip into position, you can force it into the proper position because the factory bushing are so incredibly soft. My point here is, I had to figure this out on my own and a little more description here would have been fantastic.

STEP 8: Same as STEP 4, you can muscle things into the appropriate place without going bonkers on lowering the cradle.

STEP 9: Should say, get a lot of grease on the bullets and in the bushing. It should also say, get a small sledge hammer to tap them all into place, at an equal pace.

STEP 10: Should add that you may need to use something like a short 2x4 board an another jack to raise the cradle mount point ever so slightly to get the new configuration started. That bottom washer is THICK, it puts the bolt just out of reach even with the bullets slammed all the way into place. A BALLER move from BMR would be to include 2 LONGER bolts that would not only "SET" the cradle in this step, but also suck in the BULLETS so you don't need to use a hammer. (light bulbs going off over at BMR)

Between STEP 9 and 10, we should talk about checking the INDEX of the cradle and using something to move the cradle around ever so slightly IF needed. I do think you can get it with-in a few MM of the original position you just need to align the car, main thing is you don't want it WAY WAY out of position, not sure what that tolerance is but it's worth nothing you want it as CLOSE as possible and then you want a full alignment.


BOTTOM LINE

This is WORTH the time to do if you track the car in anyway, it really firms up the rear cradle in a way only sold bushings can do or PRESSING in new derlin bushings which is really time consuming.

Congrats to BMR for an innovative approach here, I'm impressed with the approach, results and cost.

Today, my car eats up 991.1/2 GT3s on COTA, I think this will only helps my lap times and enjoyment on the track.

PS: NVH is not even measurably different.

yeah...I did the install about a month ago and the T20 for the inner fender liner is easily forgotten...sorry. The bullets were definitely tough to manage without lots of lube and "persuading". I knew you would like the immediate difference and stability from this simple mod. If you are like me, I said to myself "anything stiffer back there is better, but I doubt it will be noticeable". Wrong...as we found out it is indeed a big difference!

[staples87]

Thank you for the detailed review. Anything to help the ass wiggle under hard acceleration and turning in is a win to me!

[Bow Tie Fanatic]

Originally Posted by Sakudog

Alright guys, installed and here is my feedback.

First impressions:

The car has a more direct attitude when taking a set, you point it, it goes. The front end feels softer now than ever before, so I know as a track rat I've firmed up the rear end. The car will likely benefit from an adjustable front bar and adjustable rear control arms.

The car feels much closer to my friends 1LE, my car has 1LE size wheels and 3R tires, eibachs all my driving was done in PTM 5 or RACE. However, it still feels like mag ride, which is a good thing to me, the spoolvalve just beat you down on the street.

The car WILL need an alignment because the rear cradle did move a tiny bit out of my index, but nothing drastic, but you don't want to threshold break a car without perfect alignment...however threshold on the street and hard acceleration showed the same general alignment as before. (granted we didn't touch the front, but typically the rear dances around if it's wrong and it did not)


On the Instructions:
After calling BMR, there are some things missing that I'd like them to add.

Between Step 1 & 2, you should index mark the cradle mount positions on the front and rear locations. You can do this several different ways, but if BMR was to raise the price of the kit by $5 and include a sticker kit to do this they would be on another level with quality. I did my own index and got it within 2mm on reinstall, close enough to probably not need a full alignment and for sure the rear cradle is located close enough to be good to go after my next alignment.

STEP 2: DOES NOT mention that you need to remove a T20 bolt to free the front cradle bracket from the inner liner. Yeah it's obvious when you get in there, but you have to get up, go back to your toolbox, etc. etc. Let's get that added to STEP 2 as to what you need to do.

STEP 4 SHOULD mention that even though the Derlin bushing won't easily slip into position, you can force it into the proper position because the factory bushing are so incredibly soft. My point here is, I had to figure this out on my own and a little more description here would have been fantastic.

STEP 8: Same as STEP 4, you can muscle things into the appropriate place without going bonkers on lowering the cradle.

STEP 9: Should say, get a lot of grease on the bullets and in the bushing. It should also say, get a small sledge hammer to tap them all into place, at an equal pace.

STEP 10: Should add that you may need to use something like a short 2x4 board an another jack to raise the cradle mount point ever so slightly to get the new configuration started. That bottom washer is THICK, it puts the bolt just out of reach even with the bullets slammed all the way into place. A BALLER move from BMR would be to include 2 LONGER bolts that would not only "SET" the cradle in this step, but also suck in the BULLETS so you don't need to use a hammer. (light bulbs going off over at BMR)

Between STEP 9 and 10, we should talk about checking the INDEX of the cradle and using something to move the cradle around ever so slightly IF needed. I do think you can get it with-in a few MM of the original position you just need to align the car, main thing is you don't want it WAY WAY out of position, not sure what that tolerance is but it's worth nothing you want it as CLOSE as possible and then you want a full alignment.


BOTTOM LINE

This is WORTH the time to do if you track the car in anyway, it really firms up the rear cradle in a way only sold bushings can do or PRESSING in new derlin bushings which is really time consuming.

Congrats to BMR for an innovative approach here, I'm impressed with the approach, results and cost.

Today, my car eats up 991.1/2 GT3s on COTA, I think this will only helps my lap times and enjoyment on the track.

PS: NVH is not even measurably different.

Hey thanks for the awesome info. When you say the front end feels softer do you mean that it will push more? I’m going to do this to my ZL1 but was worried about upsetting the balance with doing this to a heavy car that already has trouble with turn-in. I’m still doing it but may need to be more aggressive in the front with camber. Again thanks for the really nice write up.

[Stephen12ZL1]

Originally Posted by Bow Tie Fanatic

Hey thanks for the awesome info. When you say the front end feels softer do you mean that it will push more? I’m going to do this to my ZL1 but was worried about upsetting the balance with doing this to a heavy car that already has trouble with turn-in. I’m still doing it but may need to be more aggressive in the front with camber. Again thanks for the really nice write up.

it only makes the front feel softer because the rear is stiffer...nothing more or less. He hasn't had in on track yet but I get what he is saying. Once he has had it on track he will be amazed at the handling improvement and confidence inspiring stability.

[Rodan]

Just finished my install. Well under 2 hours from walking into the garage to test drive, taking my time and working carefully.

Another BIG THANKS! to Sakudog for his install notes. Definitely streamlined things for me.

As noted by everyone else who's installed these, it definitely tightens up the rear, and the wiggle is much reduced. Full marks to BMR for the kit.

[Sakudog]

Originally Posted by Bow Tie Fanatic

Hey thanks for the awesome info. When you say the front end feels softer do you mean that it will push more? I’m going to do this to my ZL1 but was worried about upsetting the balance with doing this to a heavy car that already has trouble with turn-in. I’m still doing it but may need to be more aggressive in the front with camber. Again thanks for the really nice write up.

Right, just a guess on how it feels. I will be dropping into a local club track next week after the car is aligned to give some feedback on it and the Vorshlag plates.

[Rodan]

FYI...

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showt...1#post10512226

Apparently the bolts are TTY...

[Rodan]

Quoting BMR's response from the other thread for posterity:

Originally Posted by BMR Tech

The cradle bolts and all of the trailing and control arm bolts are torque to yield or a 1 time use fasteners per GM. We designed and released all of these parts before the service manual was available to the public, and we never went back and checked any of this info until now. We have sold hundreds of these kits as well as sets of arms and this is the first instance of a failure that we know of. Our own 2016 Camaro that we designed and tested all of these parts on has been taken apart and put back together multiple times and still uses the original bolts. We are changing our instructions to read that GM recommends that the bolts not be reused and will be including the GM part numbers(Listed below). We apologize for this inconvenience. Please contact me directly at frank@bmrsuspension.com or 813-986-9302 if you have any further questions

GM Part # 11547921 Front Cradle Bolt quantity of 2 required
Torque Spec
First Pass: 100Nm(74 lbft)
Final Pass: Plus 90-105 Degrees

GM Part # 11611819 Rear Cradle Bolt quantity of 2 required
Torque Spec
First Pass: 100Nm(74 lbft)
Final Pass: Plus 90-105 Degrees

GM Part # 11610908 Upper & Lower Trailing Arm Bolt quantity of 4 required
Torque Spec
First Pass: 100Nm(74 lbft)
Final Pass: 105 Degrees

GM Part # 11610908 Outer Upper Control Arm Bolt quantity of 2 required
Torque Spec
First Pass: 70Nm(52 lbft)
Final Pass: 105 Degrees

GM Part # 11610909 Inner Upper Control Arm Bolt quantity of 2 required
Torque Spec
First Pass: 70Nm(52 lbft)
Final Pass: 105 Degrees

GM Part # 11516078 Nut for all the above control arm and trailing arm bolts quantity of 12 required

GM Part # 11609598 Outer Toe Rod Bolt quantity of 2 required
Torque Spec
First Pass: 100Nm(74 lbft)
Final Pass: 105 Degrees

[clg82]

subbed because i just bought these and there is great info in here

[SpeZ]

Just ordered the same kit along with new bolts and will add reinforced toe links.
I am so excited to feel the improvement on track and at heavy acceleration.
Took be a few days to consider, but I stick with BMR, it costs less than the half of oem solid bushings and installation alot easier.
I will definitely write an update here, but it can take a few weeks. Lead time of the bolts.... and then doing a perfect alignment afterwards.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

I got mine this spring and let me tell ya... I used to have such bad "side to side" (torque steer type thing going one), that it was beyond annoying. I got the BMR Cradle Lock-Out Kit and Bushing and WOW my ZL1 literally now just digs and goes straight! It's pretty amazing that such a simple stock replacement kit does SO MUCH BETTER than the stock parts! You will love it !!!

[beowulf556]

Anyone have an updated link to the product? Can't find it...

[swisstyphoon]

Originally Posted by beowulf556

Anyone have an updated link to the product? Can't find it...

https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...productid=1635

Just installed mine a few weeks ago, it was pretty straightforward.