My Car is getting PPF - Page 5

Mighunter · 02-02-2017, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1

Yes Polish Angel is a ceramic. Two versions, one is more carnuba in appearance, and the other is more the coated candy wrapper high gloss..
The spritz every few washes, but you could use Gyeon cure, Car Pro reload, Car pro Ech20 mixture as well with the same result.

Anothet reason I like the Ech20 and Geyon Bathe+, is they leave behind a little bit of coating and kind of leave it topped off after a wash.

Polish Angel makes some outstanding products, but some of them can be expensive.
However I have never had a bad product produced by them. For a diy coating its as fool proof as it can possibly be.

ok, can you break down your process and the products you use?

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mighunter

ok, can you break down your process and the products you use?

I can. For which product line do you want. Kamikaze, Polish Angel, Gtechniq, or Blackfire? It's going to be long so maybe I will pm you. Don't want to take away from the OP's post unless you want his product line up which is Kamikaze.

I can break down from prep, coating install, and after care with all supplies used. At work now so possibly this evening.

hawk02 · 02-02-2017, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1

I can. For which product line do you want. Kamikaze, Polish Angel, Gtechniq, or Blackfire? It's going to be long so maybe I will pm you. Don't want to take away from the OP's post unless you want his product line up which is Kamikaze.

I can break down from prep, coating install, and after care with all supplies used. At work now so possibly this evening.

Nor Cal ZL1, please feel free to post a review of all these products. As the OP, I'm interested in reading your thoughts on the products as I'm sure others are as well.

solobaric · 02-02-2017, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1

Yes Polish Angel is a ceramic. Two versions, one is more carnuba in appearance, and the other is more the coated candy wrapper high gloss..
The spritz every few washes, but you could use Gyeon cure, Car Pro reload, Car pro Ech20 mixture as well with the same result.

Anothet reason I like the Ech20 and Geyon Bathe+, is they leave behind a little bit of coating and kind of leave it topped off after a wash.

Polish Angel makes some outstanding products, but some of them can be expensive.
However I have never had a bad product produced by them. For a diy coating its as fool proof as it can possibly be.

Thanks. Which Polish Angel is coated candy wrapper high gloss one please?

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solobaric

Thanks. Which Polish Angel is coated candy wrapper high gloss one please?

Can you provide info on your polisher and present paint condition? Has the paint been decontaminated yet, or polished? I will start working on it in a bit.

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 08:41 PM

Ok so two posters asking about Polish Angel so I will cover that and some of the others as well. First I must point out that no matter what you use the washing and drying techniques are where damage happen and a few pointers on the care of microfibers, quality, and care as well. No matter the surface protection, improper technique will swirl them out just like the clear coat. The good news is that your going to have something happen, but if light it can be fixed, without starting over again. More on that later.

Another note if your going to install PPF, it goes on after paint correction, but before the coating. Check with the manufacturer is it can be coated as well. I will break the rest up into different posts so I can try to stay on focus.

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 08:53 PM

First microfiber quality and care. It only take a few grains of dirt to screw up your finish.
Quality, only use top quality microfibers mostly from Korea. Avoid the big box bulk micros. Always wash new microfibers, do this twice if coating to remove as much lint as possible. You don't want fibers or lint in your new coating. Use new microfibers for coating application, washed, and properly stored. If you find one still linting, you can use a lint roller if needed. Most microfibers need to be discarded after coating as the coating will form glass like crystals in the microfiber. Reuse may really really scratch things up! Some say to soak in APC after use, but why risk it. Wash the new microfiber using something free of fabric softeners like All Free and Clear. Care of reused prep and after care will be covered later. Another note is to examine you micros after drying (low heat, or air), and remove anything they may have picked up in the drier. Once deemed clean, store in a large zip lock, and then a covered storage. Now they are clean lint free, properly stored, and ready for use.

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 09:11 PM

Next is evaluation of the paint condition before starting. Chances are even if washed, clayed, and passing the baggie test there are still iron particles hiding from railway shipping, and or just driving and using the brakes. This is where decon comes into play, and here are some solutions.
https://www.carpro-us.com/paint-deco...x-500ml-16-oz/

http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-iron-500.html

To use wash the car with some soap, at this stage it is not important which kind.
Apply the iron removal solution and wait for color change. Beware some of the iron removers smell real bad. Rinse well and do not let it dry on the surface. At this point before drying, clay the car, or dry if needed to pull into a shady dry spot. Here are the products I use for that step.

Claying towel. Be sure to follow directions and break it in on the windows first.
http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-clay-towel.html

And this for clay lube. Note your going to see this product come up for various uses. It should be available in a Gallon size soon which is what I would buy.
http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ech2o-liter.html

Some tips on the process except you can replace the clay with a towel if you choose. One advantage of the towel is you can drop it and wash it off, as well as wash it off and reuse it many many times. Clay hits the ground or gets too dirty toss it.
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 09:44 PM

Now the paint has been decond, and clayed it is time to evaluate the condition and decide on a polishing action. For this you will need a decent polisher, and a decent selection of pads and a good understanding on how to perform correction. In this area I will assume that any reading have this area covered, but if not feel free to ask away. There are several possibilities here depending on the amount of work needed. I have found these product to work well with GM paint and will try to minimize amount of products needed.

For heavy correction I use Menzerna FG 400 on an orange Lake County pad. This combo handles most any defect and finishes off to almost perfection. You need about 6 pads to correct a Camaro, or you will need to clean old paint from the pads after every panel.

http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-fast-gloss.html

Lake County pads

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country...ro-5-inch.html

For Moderate correction I use Car Pro Essence on an orange pad as well. It has less cut than FG 400 but it can really do a good job. An added Bonus of Essence is it is also a coating prep, when you wipe it off the surface is ready for a coating such as Polish Angel Viking Coat, Kamikaze ISM, or Miyabi, or any other with the exception of Polish Angel Cosmic. No prep spray or IPA wipe down is needed after Essence removal, with the exception noted above.

Essence also add a layer of coating as it finishes, and builds the surface rather than diminish it. That is a good thing on these thin GM paint jobs!

When correcting with Essence you may elect to follow up the correction and Jewell the surface with a black pad for that little extra shine.

http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-essence-xtreme-500.html

So to summarize you need Menzerna FG 400 on hammered paint, or heavy correction. Only perform heavy correction if you have measured your paint, or had a detailer measure it. A few section passes with it is probably ok.

Moderate correction for every thing except Polish Angel cosmic use Car Pro Essence. Best bet for "fixing" cars with thin clear, and the first product I would try. Your going to need it anyway because it has some other uses for repairs to be covered later.

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 10:25 PM

Now to the Polish Angel questions. Cosmic is the coating with a wax like appearance. It is a two part process and requires their Invincable Primer as the polishing and prep step. It corrects the paint and is the primer required by Polish Angle COSMIC to work correctly. Here is the product in kit form just including the chemicals.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/polis...l#.WJP9_FMrLIU

Viking coat has the "candy wrapper" look that is close to what most coatings look like. It has an even longer cure time than Cosmic @ 45 minutes. It goes on like a wax and removes the same way. Like Cosmic allow two hours between coats if desired (recommend this). It does not require the Invincable primer.

In the case of applying Viking Coat, I recommend using Car Pro Essence as your correction, and primer before application. If your car needs moderate correction to complete this, you need to.
1 Wash, 2 Decon, 3 Clay, 4 correct with essence, jewel if wanted, 5 apply Viking Coat. I would imagine most here with fairly new cars that want to use Viking Coat these steps would have it covered for the installation of the coating.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/polis...l#.WJQCHlMrLIU

Both products can cover the car and cure for the specified time, where most traditional coatings are a panel or two at the max before removal/leveling. Both go on and remove like a wax that so many are familiar with.

Other coatings can be very time , temperature, and humidity constrained and if you mess up, well you have to "fix" the screw up. Polish Angel these are of no concern at all. To fix the screw up, means the coating flashed off and cured, or you missed an area during the wipe off. Both show up in certain light as a rainbowish looking area. Usually seen after the coating has cured, and in certain light levels and angles. To fix there are two methods I have found to work. Either polish off the whole panel and do it again, or use Car Pro Essence to hit the area lightly and remove the rainbow effect. The second method has worked so far with good results. It also works to help correct some heavier damage that may occur, and recoat after repair. Anyway back to Polish Angel, the removal and time frames eliminate to need to worry about the typical coating installation concerns. It is really prep, apply like a wax, remove like a wax, done. Well except for after care

solobaric · 02-02-2017, 11:37 PM

Wow. Thanks, that covered pretty much every question I had. Anything I should know about after care?

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-02-2017, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solobaric

Wow. Thanks, that covered pretty much every question I had. Anything I should know about after care?

Yea I will do that tomorrow evening.
Will cover Waterless, Rinseless, traditional wash, drying techniques as well as repair, top off, and detail spray use and mixture. The Microfibers I use, how to take care of them. Will probably end with covering some of the other coatings as well. The end goal is to supply decent info with a minimum of money spent. I have tried quite a few products and narrowed it down to what works for me, but there is nothing absolute about how I do it. As long as someone get some usable info and ideas that they can use, to develop their own program that's good as well. There is nothing wrong with staying synergy within a product line. I kind of cherry picked some of the best products and tried them to see what worked.

hawk02 · 02-03-2017, 09:58 AM

Just found out (thanks to Nor Cal ZL1) that Esoteric Detail has posted a "walk around" video of my car to YouTube. Enjoy!

Nor Cal ZL1 · 02-03-2017, 11:12 AM

Two thumbs up on this^. And welcome aboard at the FB group as well.

02-02-2017, 11:37 PM	#67
solobaric Drives: 2002 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Evansville, Indiana Posts: 526	Wow. Thanks, that covered pretty much every question I had. Anything I should know about after care? __________________ 2017 1SS Hyper Blue M6 2001 Ford Lightning

02-02-2017, 08:41 PM	#62
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	Ok so two posters asking about Polish Angel so I will cover that and some of the others as well. First I must point out that no matter what you use the washing and drying techniques are where damage happen and a few pointers on the care of microfibers, quality, and care as well. No matter the surface protection, improper technique will swirl them out just like the clear coat. The good news is that your going to have something happen, but if light it can be fixed, without starting over again. More on that later. Another note if your going to install PPF, it goes on after paint correction, but before the coating. Check with the manufacturer is it can be coated as well. I will break the rest up into different posts so I can try to stay on focus.

02-02-2017, 08:53 PM	#63
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	First microfiber quality and care. It only take a few grains of dirt to screw up your finish. Quality, only use top quality microfibers mostly from Korea. Avoid the big box bulk micros. Always wash new microfibers, do this twice if coating to remove as much lint as possible. You don't want fibers or lint in your new coating. Use new microfibers for coating application, washed, and properly stored. If you find one still linting, you can use a lint roller if needed. Most microfibers need to be discarded after coating as the coating will form glass like crystals in the microfiber. Reuse may really really scratch things up! Some say to soak in APC after use, but why risk it. Wash the new microfiber using something free of fabric softeners like All Free and Clear. Care of reused prep and after care will be covered later. Another note is to examine you micros after drying (low heat, or air), and remove anything they may have picked up in the drier. Once deemed clean, store in a large zip lock, and then a covered storage. Now they are clean lint free, properly stored, and ready for use.

02-02-2017, 09:11 PM	#64
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	Next is evaluation of the paint condition before starting. Chances are even if washed, clayed, and passing the baggie test there are still iron particles hiding from railway shipping, and or just driving and using the brakes. This is where decon comes into play, and here are some solutions. https://www.carpro-us.com/paint-deco...x-500ml-16-oz/ http://www.autogeek.net/gyeon-iron-500.html To use wash the car with some soap, at this stage it is not important which kind. Apply the iron removal solution and wait for color change. Beware some of the iron removers smell real bad. Rinse well and do not let it dry on the surface. At this point before drying, clay the car, or dry if needed to pull into a shady dry spot. Here are the products I use for that step. Claying towel. Be sure to follow directions and break it in on the windows first. http://www.autogeek.net/nanoskin-clay-towel.html And this for clay lube. Note your going to see this product come up for various uses. It should be available in a Gallon size soon which is what I would buy. http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-ech2o-liter.html Some tips on the process except you can replace the clay with a towel if you choose. One advantage of the towel is you can drop it and wash it off, as well as wash it off and reuse it many many times. Clay hits the ground or gets too dirty toss it. http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html

02-02-2017, 09:44 PM	#65
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	Now the paint has been decond, and clayed it is time to evaluate the condition and decide on a polishing action. For this you will need a decent polisher, and a decent selection of pads and a good understanding on how to perform correction. In this area I will assume that any reading have this area covered, but if not feel free to ask away. There are several possibilities here depending on the amount of work needed. I have found these product to work well with GM paint and will try to minimize amount of products needed. For heavy correction I use Menzerna FG 400 on an orange Lake County pad. This combo handles most any defect and finishes off to almost perfection. You need about 6 pads to correct a Camaro, or you will need to clean old paint from the pads after every panel. http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-fast-gloss.html Lake County pads http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country...ro-5-inch.html For Moderate correction I use Car Pro Essence on an orange pad as well. It has less cut than FG 400 but it can really do a good job. An added Bonus of Essence is it is also a coating prep, when you wipe it off the surface is ready for a coating such as Polish Angel Viking Coat, Kamikaze ISM, or Miyabi, or any other with the exception of Polish Angel Cosmic. No prep spray or IPA wipe down is needed after Essence removal, with the exception noted above. Essence also add a layer of coating as it finishes, and builds the surface rather than diminish it. That is a good thing on these thin GM paint jobs! When correcting with Essence you may elect to follow up the correction and Jewell the surface with a black pad for that little extra shine. http://www.autogeek.net/carpro-essence-xtreme-500.html So to summarize you need Menzerna FG 400 on hammered paint, or heavy correction. Only perform heavy correction if you have measured your paint, or had a detailer measure it. A few section passes with it is probably ok. Moderate correction for every thing except Polish Angel cosmic use Car Pro Essence. Best bet for "fixing" cars with thin clear, and the first product I would try. Your going to need it anyway because it has some other uses for repairs to be covered later.

02-02-2017, 10:25 PM	#66
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	Now to the Polish Angel questions. Cosmic is the coating with a wax like appearance. It is a two part process and requires their Invincable Primer as the polishing and prep step. It corrects the paint and is the primer required by Polish Angle COSMIC to work correctly. Here is the product in kit form just including the chemicals. http://www.autopia-carcare.com/polis...l#.WJP9_FMrLIU Viking coat has the "candy wrapper" look that is close to what most coatings look like. It has an even longer cure time than Cosmic @ 45 minutes. It goes on like a wax and removes the same way. Like Cosmic allow two hours between coats if desired (recommend this). It does not require the Invincable primer. In the case of applying Viking Coat, I recommend using Car Pro Essence as your correction, and primer before application. If your car needs moderate correction to complete this, you need to. 1 Wash, 2 Decon, 3 Clay, 4 correct with essence, jewel if wanted, 5 apply Viking Coat. I would imagine most here with fairly new cars that want to use Viking Coat these steps would have it covered for the installation of the coating. http://www.autopia-carcare.com/polis...l#.WJQCHlMrLIU Both products can cover the car and cure for the specified time, where most traditional coatings are a panel or two at the max before removal/leveling. Both go on and remove like a wax that so many are familiar with. Other coatings can be very time , temperature, and humidity constrained and if you mess up, well you have to "fix" the screw up. Polish Angel these are of no concern at all. To fix the screw up, means the coating flashed off and cured, or you missed an area during the wipe off. Both show up in certain light as a rainbowish looking area. Usually seen after the coating has cured, and in certain light levels and angles. To fix there are two methods I have found to work. Either polish off the whole panel and do it again, or use Car Pro Essence to hit the area lightly and remove the rainbow effect. The second method has worked so far with good results. It also works to help correct some heavier damage that may occur, and recoat after repair. Anyway back to Polish Angel, the removal and time frames eliminate to need to worry about the typical coating installation concerns. It is really prep, apply like a wax, remove like a wax, done. Well except for after care

02-03-2017, 11:12 AM	#70
Nor Cal ZL1 Drives: 2013 ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Nor Cal Posts: 1,825	Two thumbs up on this^. And welcome aboard at the FB group as well.

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