I put the ZL1/ 1LE Sway Bars on my 2SS - Page 5

LibertyHill · 01-11-2017, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LesBaer

BTW - here are the weights on the Hellwig parts...looks like you save a few pounds.

Front - Part #55719 -18.6lbs
Rear - Part #55819 - 15.8lbs

That was quick!

LesBaer · 01-11-2017, 11:59 AM

Yeah he didn't waste anytime in getting back to me LOL. I just shot Ted an email to ask him for his 2 cents. I think BMR might make them as well. I need to stay away from this board...it causes me to buy things!

rotis · 01-11-2017, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LibertyHill

I assume the ZL1 arms are the same as SS OE, and with the track times that heavier car has put down why bother?

The ZL1 trailing arms are a different part number. The arm itself is the same, but the bushings are significantly stiffer.

LibertyHill · 01-11-2017, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LesBaer

I just shot Ted an email to ask him for his 2 cents.

Let us know what he says!

LesBaer · 01-11-2017, 12:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LibertyHill

Let us know what he says!

Definitely, will do...he should be finishing up my cam job any day now

Mountain · 01-12-2017, 11:23 PM

I just ordered a FE4 (1LE/ZL1)front sway bar. I'll measure the blade thickness to derive a rough wall thickness.

LesBaer · 01-13-2017, 11:47 AM

I'm just going to go with the full 1LE suspension upgrade now. I want the MRC tuning adjustment and with the amount of power my car is going to be making now (I have 2 55g barrels of E85 being delivered today

), I'm not really worried about a few extra pounds anymore on the sway bars.

Mountain · 01-13-2017, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mountain

I just ordered a FE4 (1LE/ZL1)front sway bar. I'll measure the blade thickness to derive a rough wall thickness.

I got the sway bar today. I measured the attachment blade thickness... What I got equals basically the same wall thickness of the SS bar, which is said to be 0.156". The part number I have is 84052981. Can someone confirm their part number? Maybe this is not a good way to check the wall thickness (i.e. the blade is compressed enough in manufacturing to where it disrupts the wall thickness). I'm going to double-check the diameter.

*Mr. Wyndham* · 01-13-2017, 02:34 PM

I think diameter is going to give you better comparison between bars, no?

LesBaer · 01-13-2017, 03:07 PM

I don't even know if your diameter is going to matter. Each bar has different torsion specs, which is basically how much it's going to flex.

*Mr. Wyndham* · 01-13-2017, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LesBaer

I don't even know if your diameter is going to matter. Each bar has different torsion specs, which is basically how much it's going to flex.

Correct. But typically, they achieve these torsion specs with diameter...

Norm Peterson · 01-13-2017, 03:20 PM

You need both the diameter and the wall thickness.

Stiffness for a tube is roughly a function of diameter (cubed) times wall thickness.

More precisely, it's a function of outside diameter to the fourth power minus the fourth power of the diameter of the hole down the middle of it.

But wall thickness is generally easier to measure in cases like this.

Norm

PolynesianPowerhouse · 01-13-2017, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

You need both the diameter and the wall thickness.

Stiffness for a tube is roughly a function of diameter (cubed) times wall thickness.

More precisely, it's a function of outside diameter to the fourth power minus the fourth power of the diameter of the hole down the middle of it.

But wall thickness is generally easier to measure in cases like this.

Norm

its a legit blessing you are on this forum with the tech and help. seriously!

Mountain · 01-13-2017, 06:26 PM

Contrary to what's listed here, the front bar I bought is 30.3mm or 1.19", NOT 28mm or 1.10".

01-11-2017, 11:59 AM	#58
LesBaer FMPG Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CT Posts: 1,888	Yeah he didn't waste anytime in getting back to me LOL. I just shot Ted an email to ask him for his 2 cents. I think BMR might make them as well. I need to stay away from this board...it causes me to buy things! __________________ Ordered 3/8/16- NFG/Ceramic White, M6, MRC, NPP, 6 pots, blk blade, no sunroof, blk splitter, blk bow ties, dark tails, nav. ARH 1 7/8" ceramic coated full sys w/NPP; Maggie 9.2psi (85mm); Jannetty rough idle cam(TSP), tune and LT4 fuel system; Forgeline VX1 Black PVD (20x10,11); R88R 315's; ALPriority; BMR rear arms, bushings, DS loop; RF intake (red); nGauge 93 octane: 712rwhp, 654rwtq / E85 (E66 mix): 734rwhp, 674rwtq (SuperFlow Dyno)

01-13-2017, 11:47 AM	#63
LesBaer FMPG Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CT Posts: 1,888	I'm just going to go with the full 1LE suspension upgrade now. I want the MRC tuning adjustment and with the amount of power my car is going to be making now (I have 2 55g barrels of E85 being delivered today ), I'm not really worried about a few extra pounds anymore on the sway bars. __________________ Ordered 3/8/16- NFG/Ceramic White, M6, MRC, NPP, 6 pots, blk blade, no sunroof, blk splitter, blk bow ties, dark tails, nav. ARH 1 7/8" ceramic coated full sys w/NPP; Maggie 9.2psi (85mm); Jannetty rough idle cam(TSP), tune and LT4 fuel system; Forgeline VX1 Black PVD (20x10,11); R88R 315's; ALPriority; BMR rear arms, bushings, DS loop; RF intake (red); nGauge 93 octane: 712rwhp, 654rwtq / E85 (E66 mix): 734rwhp, 674rwtq (SuperFlow Dyno)

01-13-2017, 02:34 PM	#65
Mr. Wyndham I used to be Dragoneye... Drives: 2018 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Buffalo, NY Posts: 31,873 View My Garage	I think diameter is going to give you better comparison between bars, no? __________________ *"Keep the faith."* - Fbodfather

01-13-2017, 03:07 PM	#66
LesBaer FMPG Drives: 2016 2SS Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: CT Posts: 1,888	I don't even know if your diameter is going to matter. Each bar has different torsion specs, which is basically how much it's going to flex. __________________ Ordered 3/8/16- NFG/Ceramic White, M6, MRC, NPP, 6 pots, blk blade, no sunroof, blk splitter, blk bow ties, dark tails, nav. ARH 1 7/8" ceramic coated full sys w/NPP; Maggie 9.2psi (85mm); Jannetty rough idle cam(TSP), tune and LT4 fuel system; Forgeline VX1 Black PVD (20x10,11); R88R 315's; ALPriority; BMR rear arms, bushings, DS loop; RF intake (red); nGauge 93 octane: 712rwhp, 654rwtq / E85 (E66 mix): 734rwhp, 674rwtq (SuperFlow Dyno)

01-13-2017, 03:20 PM	#68
Norm Peterson corner barstool sitter Drives: 08 Mustang GT, 19 WRX Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Eastern Time Zone Posts: 6,990	You need both the diameter and the wall thickness. Stiffness for a tube is roughly a function of diameter (cubed) times wall thickness. More precisely, it's a function of outside diameter to the fourth power minus the fourth power of the diameter of the hole down the middle of it. But wall thickness is generally easier to measure in cases like this. Norm __________________ '08 GT coupe 5M (the occasional track toy) '19 WRX 6M (the family sedan . . . seriously)

01-12-2017, 11:23 PM	#62
Mountain Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Metro-Detroit Posts: 1,869	I just ordered a FE4 (1LE/ZL1)front sway bar. I'll measure the blade thickness to derive a rough wall thickness.

01-13-2017, 06:26 PM	#70
Mountain Drives: 2017 SS 1LE, 2016 1SS (previous) Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Metro-Detroit Posts: 1,869	Contrary to what's listed here, the front bar I bought is 30.3mm or 1.19", NOT 28mm or 1.10". Attached Images

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