[hawk02]

Originally Posted by CalgaryZL1

My engine says thank you every time I drive it

Originally Posted by Chris357

I'm considering that intake. I see you have a catch can, which is one of my questions. Where do you put the PCV fitting that would normally plumb into the intake elbow (assuming you don't want to drill the carbon fiber)?

My experience with the Cold Air Inductions Carbon Elite intake wasn't very positive.

One corner of the intake box sat up too high and rubbed on the inside of the hood when it closed. During attempts to get the box to sit correctly, several pegs on the underside of the box that fit in the grommets on the engine bay frame broke off. The pegs are only held in place by the carbon fiber coating surrounding the box.

The first time this happened I sent the box back to Cold Air Inductions and they glued the pegs back on. Trying to seat the repaired box the pegs broke off again. The third time I tried to glue the pegs back on only to have them break off again.

Frustrated, I contacted Summit Racing and they allowed me to return the intake a full refund.

Just be careful when you seat the box in the grommets. The pegs are easy to break off. For an intake costing that much, the pegs should be secured to the box with screws or something stronger than the carbon fiber coating in my opinion.

[laynlo15]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Urban legends never die on the internet.

So true, I've never heard of one of our members having an engine failure with an aftermarket CAI and I've been on here since December 2016. Just sayin.

[2023_ZL1-AUTO]

So, speaking of "using" a stock air box on a Yenko. I ran across this video reviewing some facts behind using a stock air box/air intake vs a roto-fab. The reason this came up, it was pointed out to me from my data log that my MAT is running around 153° to 157° (166°). I originally had the Elite Carbon Fiber air intake that had a closed box. But the carbon fiber tube/elbow was not aligning with the throttle body as required and it caused the air intake tube at the air box to slight gap open. This was because I had an adapter required to mount my 100mm TB. So I went with the Rot-Fab. Not sure if I should try testing this by go back to stock airbox air intake and do a data log to see if there is any difference. But I think my current tune would be off since it's tuned for a big gulp.

It will make some sense for me to port the blower and the I can lose the adapter and then go with any air intake/airbox at that point. What a domino !!!

[Chris357]

Originally Posted by 2023_ZL1-AUTO

So, speaking of "using" a stock air box on a Yenko. I ran across this video reviewing some facts behind using a stock air box/air intake vs a roto-fab. The reason this came up, it was pointed out to me from my data log that my MAT is running around 153° to 157°. I originally had the Elite Carbon Fiber air intake that had a closed box. But the carbon fiber tube/elbow was not aligning with the throttle body as required and it caused the air intake tube at the air box to slight gap open. This was because I had an adapter required to mount my 100mm TB. So I went with the Rot-Fab. Not sure if I should try testing this by go back to stock airbox air intake and do a data log to see if there is any difference. But I think my current tune would be off since it's tuned for a big gulp.

It will make some sense for me to port the blower and the I can lose the adapter and then go with any air intake/airbox at that point. What a domino !!!

I've seen that video and it's part of the reason I made the post. Thanks for getting us back on topic and I'd definitely be interested in seeing some results of IAT comparisons.

[hawk02]

Originally Posted by Chris357

I've seen that video and it's part of the reason I made the post. Thanks for getting us back on topic and I'd definitely be interested in seeing some results of IAT comparisons.

I've said this many times. The stock air box with a green filter and the rain/snow blocker removed from behind the upper grill and driver's side headlight is the best "Bang for the Buck" intake mod out there.

[Mark R]

Here is some science about air filters. Oiled gauze filters are garbage. If you want more air flow, your engine will have to eat dirt.

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Mark R

Here is some science about air filters. Oiled gauze filters are garbage. If you want more air flow, your engine will have to eat dirt.

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

Urban legend strikes again. I say again, do a Blackstone Labs oil sample test and you will realize how far off base you are. I stated before and I state again, if you're living in the desert and driving your ZL1 across the dunes, there may be SOME merit to not using oiled cotton filters, this also applies to ATVs and motorcycles driven off-road, but oiled cotton provides WAY more than enough filtering for a street driven vehicle application. Dodge didn't start using oiled cotton filters on the Hellcat in 2019+ because they wanted to eat dirt.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Urban legend strikes again. I say again, do a Blackstone Labs oil sample test and you will realize how far off base you are. I stated before and I state again, if you're living in the desert and driving your ZL1 across the dunes, there may be SOME merit to not using oiled cotton filters, this also applies to ATVs and motorcycles driven off-road, but oiled cotton provides WAY more than enough filtering for a street driven vehicle application. Dodge didn't start using oiled cotton filters on the Hellcat in 2019+ because they wanted to eat dirt.

The data presented in the study are not the stuff of urban legends. Did you even read it?

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Mark R

The data presented in the study are not the stuff of urban legends. Did you even read it?

Do your OWN oil sample studies and see for yourself. I've done my own for 7 years now. You haven't. You're relying one someone else to tell you what's best.

[radz28]

Studies, even when conducted by ASTM-type methods, do not necessarily, always, reflect real-world. I work in a lab, and perform testing according to ASTM methods, so I might have a bit of real-world experience... I'm not saying it's black-and-white, and that lab testing SHOULD be black-and-white, but the world is not. I'm leaning toward the real-world-testing from Z', but that's me.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

Do your OWN oil sample studies and see for yourself. I've done my own for 7 years now. You haven't. You're relying one someone else to tell you what's best.

I'm not interested in oil samples. I change the oil long before it reaches its capacity to suspend contaminants.

I'm interested in clean filtered air that will not introduce dust and dirt into my engine. The study, for anyone who would care to actually read it, uses standardized dust, in a machine designed to measure amount of contaminants passed and air pressure drop due to the filter getting clogged. They simply put all filters under the same conditions, and see when they clog up to the same point, how much dirt they pass before they clog, and how much dirt they trap at the point of clogging.

Pretty simple. Conclusion: if you want the air to be filtered, use the stock filter, otherwise, you will get worse filtering performance.

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by radz28

Studies, even when conducted by ASTM-type methods, do not necessarily, always, reflect real-world. I work in a lab, and perform testing according to ASTM methods, so I might have a bit of real-world experience... I'm not saying it's black-and-white, and that lab testing SHOULD be black-and-white, but the world is not. I'm leaning toward the real-world-testing from Z', but that's me.

I agree here, lab studies often create a worst case scenario which is not often the same as real world. I stand by what I said, if your car is driven on the street, oiled cotton is "good enough". I won't argue that it may be 1% less effective than a paper filter, but does that really translate to anything meaningful long term? Based on anecdotal evidence from real world users, it makes no difference at all. Based on my own oil samples, it makes no difference at all. I've also stated repeatedly if the car is stock there's no need to replace the OEM paper filter with an oiled cotton filter unless you just want a lifetime filter. However, when you start modifying your vehicle, there is a point where a paper filter becomes a restriction compared to an oiled cotton filter and that's when one should be considered because its unlikely you've find a larger capacity paper filter to flow more air. All of these companies making oiled cotton filters are still in business today after decades, not because of marketing, but because they do the job they were designed to do.

[Mark R]

Originally Posted by Z OH 6

I agree here, lab studies often create a worst case scenario which is not often the same as real world. I stand by what I said, if your car is driven on the street, oiled cotton is "good enough". I won't argue that it may be 1% less effective than a paper filter, but does that really translate to anything meaningful long term? Based on anecdotal evidence from real world users, it makes no difference at all. Based on my own oil samples, it makes no difference at all. I've also stated repeatedly if the car is stock there's no need to replace the OEM paper filter with an oiled cotton filter unless you just want a lifetime filter. However, when you start modifying your vehicle, there is a point where a paper filter becomes a restriction compared to an oiled cotton filter and that's when one should be considered because its unlikely you've find a larger capacity paper filter to flow more air. All of these companies making oiled cotton filters are still in business today after decades, not because of marketing, but because they do the job they were designed to do.

I'll agree with you there. A stock car is much better with the stock air filter. But once you build and tune, there is going to be a need to more air flow, and there will be a little less filtering going on in that case.

However, lab studies have their place, and this study presents some pretty conclusive data regarding air filtration on a stock vehicle.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Mark R

I'm not interested in oil samples. I change the oil long before it reaches its capacity to suspend contaminants.

I'm interested in clean filtered air that will not introduce dust and dirt into my engine. The study, for anyone who would care to actually read it, uses standardized dust, in a machine designed to measure amount of contaminants passed and air pressure drop due to the filter getting clogged. They simply put all filters under the same conditions, and see when they clog up to the same point, how much dirt they pass before they clog, and how much dirt they trap at the point of clogging.

Pretty simple. Conclusion: if you want the air to be filtered, use the stock filter, otherwise, you will get worse filtering performance.

http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

Oil will suspend contaminates immediately after you change it. So you don't drive the car AT ALL?

Pretty simple. Conclusion: If you want to know if you're passing dirt into your engine, do an oil sample and see for yourself. Paper or oiled cotton will not matter if you're not driving your car in the sand dunes or off-road.