[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by R8R1LE

I would make a heatshield.
Another item on the "if I ever mod it" list.

That might help but the original hose on my car looked like it suffered the dreaded oil drip from the under torqued oil pan bolts.

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by Trochoidal

Mine didn’t fail but it was going to fail and probably not fair off given the condition of the one I removed. I know exactly why mine was failing and it was the lose oil pan bolt in the same proximity of that hose. Oil and rubber don’t play well together and it was deteriorating my hose.

I had checked the torque on every bolt I could reach with the aluminum plate in place. When I replaced the hose I torqued the remaining bolts.

It would be nice if more people knew what caused their hose to fail. I’d really suggest anyone that has the time to check every oil pan bolt.

I’ll check the 4-ply silicone hose I bought at the next oil change, if not sooner.

Thanks to all for the useful info in this thread! But what is the torque spec for the oil pan bolts? Thanks in advance-

[Trochoidal]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Thanks to all for the useful info in this thread! But what is the torque spec for the oil pan bolts? Thanks in advance-

Hey VM you’re welcome and here’s the spec.

I’m also going to add that if/when you check the torque of the pan bolts, check the oil cooler line going into the side of the pan. You won’t regret it. I’ll have to dig that spec up too. I don’t recall if it was the same as the pan.

EDIT: this number sounds right for the cooler bolts. This was faster than pulling out the service manuals.

https://www.camaro6.com/forums/showthread.php?t=573013

One more thing, I had to drop the cover under the engine to get to the front pan bolts. You know the one with 300 screws/bolts holding plastic parts in place?

[Ventmaster]

Thank you sir! Very helpful info!
I'll put it to good use the next time I'm under the car-

[chrissullins]

Just had the same problem in my 2023 LT1. Bought it new over a year ago, it now has just over 26k miles, bone stock. Took off from a green light and happened to glance up and notice an unbelievable amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and still halfway tried convincing myself it was because of how cold it was…

It definitely was not from outside temp. The dealer luckily fixed it under warranty [praise Jesus!] and told me it was the same hose part that had been cut, without mentioning how common this problem is. Additionally, my water pump failed around 20k miles. I carefully broke in the motor for the first 1,500 miles, so I know these issues weren’t due to a lack of tender love and care…

Thank you to those who shared personal experiences, part numbers, and pictures!

[MyNameIs]

Originally Posted by cmitchell17

Edit: So ended up actually being the rubber hose that connects the metal coolant line that comes from the water pump and connects the other metal line that goes to the oil cooler. It had a cut in it almost all the length of it. After thinking about it I believe the problem was caused by me, I don't know of any other way this could have happen. About probably over a month ago I lifted the car up and pressure washed underneath it and I got to obsessive about trying to get dirt and grease off. I usually never use the yellow nozzle (2600 psi) but I did this time trying to get grease off, so I think I got to close to this hose while washing underneath and it cut it open, that's the only way I think this could have happened. So hopefully this will be a lesson for me and everyone else to always pay attention when you are pressure washing and you can cause a lot of damage. Its funny how you can pressure wash something with the highest pressure right up close to it and after it dries it will still look dirty and have dirt on it, but then it will easily cut right through stuff and you don't even notice. I would like to try a hot water pressure washer but that's a different story.


So some really bad stuff happened tonight. I'm posting this here because I'm almost positive this problem was caused by me putting in my cam and heads and screwing something up. Even though I put everything back over 2 months ago and have put around 3000 miles so far with 0 issues.

So I haven't driven it in a few days and have been working from home. So I get in and fortunately I have my computer trying to do some logging to fix the idle. So everything seems normal until I notice I have no heat. Then I pull up into the store and notice my fans are on high. With the dummy (useless gauges for idiots) not actually showing your true temperature so people won't freak out if the gauge moves back and forth I didn't realize the coolant was pretty hot at about 220F, then I looked at the scanner and saw the oil at 260F so then I knew something is bad. I opened the hood to check for coolant and there is none and I notice is leaking everywhere up underneath.

What I really should was had it towed back home, its never worth the risk of overheating and ruining the motor, but I was really close to home, so I got some water and kept on filling it up and idled/limped it back home. Coolant stayed pretty steady at about 230F, but I was trying to be as easy as possible and at some points oil temp got into the 280-290F range. Everytime I would stop and pour water in the reservoir it would immediately start coming out from somewhere on the road from the bottom of the car, so I am hoping it is just a line somehow came off.

I got it back to my garage and put it on jackstands and everything looks fine except for the coolant everywhere, and the oil definately smells burnt, I intend to change it but thats the least of my worries now.

When doing my cam I had to do a lot of wiggling to get the stupid metal pipe out of the way to pull the timing cover off, this is the metal pipe that runs from the water pump to the oil heat exchanger. Everything looks fine from what I can see but unfortunately there is a lot of the pipe and lines I can't see.

The weird part is on my way trying to limp it home it threw a code, P06DD, for "Engine Oil Pressure Control Circuit Performance/Stuck Off". Now I believe the "fail safe" state of the switch would be to go to high oil pressure. When I was limping home oil pressure was in the 20s at cruise and I believe may have been around 10 or so looking at the logs at idle. I can somewhat expect lower oil pressure as hot as its getting though.

I also know there is a TSB for the oil pump face being worn or the tensioner guide being to short:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...80702-2280.pdf
The TSB is really not clear as it indicates symptoms may be "low oil pressure" but if the pump is not able to switch the control switch on I would think the oil pressure would stay in the high mode? It appears this TSB only applied to the 2016s, I have a 2017 although it was an early build.

So my theory is that by wiggling on the metal coolant tube so much trying to get the timing cover off I messed up a joint and its now leaking after 2 months. Somehow when it got hot it somehow triggered the TSB? I'm really hoping this is the case and not that I am going to have to tear this thing down again and possible pull the oil pan off and put another pump on. I never pulled the oil pan to put the cam in, I just loosened the oil pump bolts to get a little room to pull the timing gear off, I also did use the overly expensive oil pump alignment tool, so I really don't think my oil pump is misaligned. It just dosen't make sense why I got the oil pump switch code? I will be taking the bottom aluminum protection plate off and the airflow covers off tomarrow when it cools so hopefully I can get a better look if somehow its just a hose loose, which I really hope it is.

One more thing, I know the trucks calculate the oil temperature, I think the Corvette and Camaro LT1s have an actual temp sensor? Anyway hopefully the DTC setting is just a consequence of having the oil too hot maybe.

Mine broke this past summer. Mine also a 17. Over 70k miles. Dealer said its a normal wear item. I had them replace other rubber hoses along with my belts at the same time.

[MyNameIs]

Originally Posted by 95 imp

Around what mileage is it failing at?

If that is known more people can keep an eye on it/change it before it wears out.


Ususally, it's in a fairly consistent range.
I know on my Dmax Silverado there were a few items that hit most of the engines at pretty much the same mileage.

Mine failed at 72 or 73kmiles on a 2017 being 7 years.

[MyNameIs]

Originally Posted by chrissullins

Just had the same problem in my 2023 LT1. Bought it new over a year ago, it now has just over 26k miles, bone stock. Took off from a green light and happened to glance up and notice an unbelievable amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and still halfway tried convincing myself it was because of how cold it was…

It definitely was not from outside temp. The dealer luckily fixed it under warranty [praise Jesus!] and told me it was the same hose part that had been cut, without mentioning how common this problem is. Additionally, my water pump failed around 20k miles. I carefully broke in the motor for the first 1,500 miles, so I know these issues weren’t due to a lack of tender love and care…

Thank you to those who shared personal experiences, part numbers, and pictures!

Damn I got 7 years and 73k miles out of my hose.

[tortilla-flats]

Originally Posted by chrissullins

Just had the same problem in my 2023 LT1. Bought it new over a year ago, it now has just over 26k miles, bone stock. Took off from a green light and happened to glance up and notice an unbelievable amount of white smoke coming out of the exhaust, and still halfway tried convincing myself it was because of how cold it was…

It definitely was not from outside temp. The dealer luckily fixed it under warranty [praise Jesus!] and told me it was the same hose part that had been cut, without mentioning how common this problem is. Additionally, my water pump failed around 20k miles. I carefully broke in the motor for the first 1,500 miles, so I know these issues weren’t due to a lack of tender love and care…

Thank you to those who shared personal experiences, part numbers, and pictures!

Ack! Guess I better be checking mine.

[DeuceCam]

This is interesting. Maybe a fuel/oil safe hose would be an improvement, if leaking oil from the pan is the cause?

Or delete the factory water-to-air cooler? It looks like Improved Racing amd Hawkes Motorsports offer components for this. $$ though